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4 Answers

Recommended sheathing tape width?

How wide should sheathing tape be to provide a quality air seal on OSB in CZ 3A? I am looking at 3M 8067, but am open to other options.


Asked By Norman Bunn | Dec 5 17
4 Answers

Rain Screen material options

I see a lot of different products commercially available to create a rain screen - basically a gap between the external sheathing and the siding. But why would I not do something simple/cheap like ripping 1/4"-1/2" pressure-treated plywood into ~2" wide strips, and nailing those up in line with my studs for my rain screen spacers? What benefits do I gain from buying a more complicated product? Separately, I still need to think through the correct kind of "bug filter" at the bottom - this is where a commercial product makes sense to me - I appreciate any recommendations on that.

Asked By MarkM3 | Dec 6 17
3 Answers

Replacing double-paned window glass

Old window is Willmar Window uPVC, 70/32, installed horizontally in 2001. The seal failed in 2016 on the lower left hand side.

We replaced only the window glass in the summer of 2017. Synergy Solarban 70XL

After a recent winter storm, the frame of the Willmar seems not to support the new window glass.

Asked By Carolelm | Dec 5 17
2 Answers

Can I remove a vent-free gas wall heater or should it be done by a professional?

I was reading your piece on Vent free heaters. The home I purchased a earlier this year has a vent free heater, installed by the previous owner. I have never used it out of fear and want to know is it best to have it removed or should I just never turn it on? If removal is the answer should it be done by a professional?

Thank you for your time.

Asked By Smilingbrook | Dec 7 17
3 Answers

Bead board or wainscoting on interior and exterior walls

So after reading about installing tongue and grove on a cathedral ceiling I learned that drywall should be installed before the tongue and groove. Because of the extra work and expense we are going to leave the ceiling drywall for now but because we are skipping out on the wood ceiling I would like to put up some wood on some of the exterior and/or interior walls. I'm wondering if we need to put up drywall first as we would in the ceiling for air sealing or can we skip this step on the walls. The walls are 2x4 construction with r15 roxul.

Asked By Karen Connolly | Dec 7 17
1 Answer

Unvented roof assemblies without spray foam

I am planning an addition on my home in Seattle with an unvented roof assembly. I have looked at the costs and I am not considering using spray foam of any kind.

For an unvented, cathedral ceiling, the local code calls for R-38.

Asked By User-6965270 | Dec 7 17
12 Answers

Double stud framing insulation

We are building our full time retirement home in zone 5 in Lakeside Arizona. We want to use a double studded framing system to take advantage of the thermal break option.. What are our best options for insulation? and what are the R values of each option listed. See attachment:
1:Open Cell Foam Insulation 2x4 primary Dense Pack Cellulose / wool insulation for 2x4 secondary wall
Option 2:All dense Pack cellulose or wool
Option 3 Use 2x6 with either open cell foam or dense pack cellulose or wool 5 ½ inches

Asked By r ferd | Dec 4 17
4 Answers

Solutions to inadequate insulation at truss heel

After recently reading "Prevent Ice Dams with air sealing and insulation" I know that I am not currently able to get the insulation I want at the heel of my standard trusses.

I will be building a double stud wall inside an existing structure, which will help increase the effective insulation at the inner top plate, but there will still only be approximately 9 inches of available space measured normal (perpendicular) to the roof sheathing where the trusses meet the (inner) top plate.

Zone 6a (Maine)

I have a number of thoughts:

Asked By Tyler Keniston | Dec 5 17
4 Answers

Adding to existing blown-in fiberglass insulation


I am located in climate zone 5, bordering 6. I have remedied sealing and kneewall issues in my attic. I am ready to add additional blown-in insulation to the existing blown in fiberglass (R-38). My plan is to bring the final R value to R-60. If I currently have blown-in fiberglass, is there any benefit to adding cellulose over the top or just top it off with additional blown fiberglass?

Many Thanks,

Asked By Mg6467 | Dec 4 17
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