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2 Answers

Looking for a filler for wood flooring

My renovation/addition of a 37-year-old summer camp included installation of radiant heat and sanding of the existing yellow pine flooring. The structure had never been heated until this season and I expected some shrinkage. Now two months into the heating season, the gaps, though spaced 18" to 3' apart, are predominately 1/8" with one 6' length at 3/16". Obviously, I underestimated the moisture content of the wood.

I would appreciate input on whether a reliable, flexible filler is available that will be compatible with the clear, Bona Mega Traffic finish that I used.

Thank you,

Asked By John Oliver | Dec 4 17
5 Answers

Rim joist insulation: What did the builder do?

I am working on finishing my below grade basement in southern Minnesota. Home was built in 2014. I have been planning to hire professionals to spray 2" of foam along my rim joist. Upon further inspection I have noticed that the builder insulated the rim joist.

From the outside in: 1 1/8" thick manufactured rim joist material. 1" of foam insulation (appears to have some kind of front and back facing). 1/2 piece of OSB which is visible from the interior.

Asked By BobTheWeekendWarrior | Dec 4 17
1 Answer

Goop and plastic - yes, no, maybe?

Hi Guys,

I'm at the stage of my project where I am installing drywall. Wall is 2x6, Roxul insulation, Certainteed MemBrain smart vapor barrier, and I'd like to do an air tight drywall approach for drywall installation.

But - I've got plastic stapled to my studs, top plate, bottom plate, window rough in, etc. ADA guidelines say I should be caulking all of these areas when I install the drywall, but, um, there's plastic there.

I've only got one small corner complete, my "trial corner" with a window to see how things would play

Asked By Tony Bouchard | Dec 4 17
10 Answers

Estimate kWh electricity needed to heat new addition?

I am planning to expand an existing room in my house. The room is currently on a separate heating zone (oil heat, forced hot water). I have solar panels and generate an average 1700 kWh electricity per year more than I use (this is a 3 year average). So I am thinking of heating the remodeled room with electric baseboard, hoping that I can essentially heat it for free with the excess kilowatts that I generate. But I would like to project how much electricity will be required before making a decision. Can this be estimated?

The room will be 13' x 17' (221 square feet).

Asked By user-6963772 | Nov 29 17
8 Answers

Foil vs Bubble Foil or Foam Foil

Hi I'm insulating a shed-like structure on my property to create a comfortable living space. With regard to the tin roof I've been advised to use a layer of Bubble foil on the battens directly underneath the tin and then below that in the remaining ceiling space (above the plasterboard) Fibreglass batts. My question is: In this kind of context will bubble foil give an improved insulating performance over and above foil (sisilation) on it's own directly under the tin? i.e. Is bubble foil worthy of the added cost??

Asked By AussieQ | Nov 15 17
6 Answers

Advice on heating a basement with a ductless mini-split

I'm looking to add some heat to our basement so we can enjoy it more in the winter months when we can't get outside with the kiddo. Our current basement has 10' ceilings, poured concrete walls with 2" foam attached to them and then studs. We plan to either drywall or put some sort of high-end paneling up on the walls to "semi-finish" the space, even though I'm going to leave the ceiling open. We only have electric heat in our neighborhood, so I'm wondering since the basement is below grade, can we get away with a single head from Mitsubishi to heat the space?

Asked By Andrew Simpson | Dec 4 17
3 Answers

2-part spray foam: Store-bought kit or professional application?

New home build in CZ 6A. While discussing my cellulose insulation requirements with a local supplier, he tried to sell me on spray foam for both the rim-joist and below-slab in the basement in addition to the cellulose for my walls. I explained to him that sub-slab spray foam was likely out of our budget and that if I did spray foam in the rim joists it would only be a thin coat for air sealing purposes, and that I would probably do it myself with a store-bought 2-part foam kit.

He made some claims to back up his argument:

Asked By Lance Peters | Dec 1 17
2 Answers

PH questionnaire

I am an undergraduate student in University of Patras and I'm currently working on my thesis about a retrofit PH located in Athens. I am conducting 3 questionnaires about PH. One for the PH adviser, one for the manufacturer/engineer of the PH and finally one for the users/owners of the building. What are the most representative questions someone can ask each person of the category so as to conclude about the general function of a specific PH?
Thank you :)

Asked By danaezoupa | Dec 4 17
6 Answers

Window with stone veneer below

Siding to Stone Veneer Transition. Flashing used between two claddimgs at transition point. Windows sit right above stone veneer, and have sloped downward sills as part of the windows themselves. Stone veneer directly below. Slicker Max used rainscreen.
Would anything be required below the window, with an already sloped sill, above the stone veneer. Trying to find something similar to what am describing to upload.

Asked By Birdie L | Dec 2 17
9 Answers

2-inch foam on the interior face of the wall: What are my electrical box options?

Due to a foundation snaffu, it looks like I will have to move my 2in. EPS foam to the inside of the wall assembly. Although that seems feasible, it will add some labour and material cost (3/4" strapping everywhere, 3/4" plywood for the kitchen/cabinet area etc.)

I was specifically looking at the extra pain involved in installing electrical boxes. It seems most of the box extension rings I could find are limited to 1.5", which is a bit shy of the 2in. I would require.

Asked By Mai Tai | Dec 2 17
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