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3 Answers

My proposed wall assembly from outside to inside:

1. Ribbed steel siding
2. 3/6" fanfold battens to create air space
3. 1/2" cdx
4. 2x8 stud cavity filled with wet spray cellulose
5. 2" eps nailed to studs (interior uninterrupted rigid foam)
6. 1.5" uninsulated service cavity (created with horizontal 2x4s)
7. 3/8" acx plywood (interior wall finish)

The building is a heated workshop with some pretty high electrical needs for the machinery. Since it's not a residence, I could probably forgo the fire blocking.

Asked By Rick Van Handel | Jul 14 14
3 Answers

I want to properly insulate a basement wall to which dimpled Delta MS has been attached up to grade level, as part of installation of interior weeping tile/sump pump installation.
How should I adhere xps or eps insulation to this wall, since the dimpled Delta is not exactly even with the concrete on the exposed part of the wall above it?
Or is it necessary to buy more Delta to go all the way to the top of the wall?
In either case, what is the best way to attach the insulation?
(I intend to frame a wall later in front of this insulation.)

Asked By John Lawson | Jul 14 14
11 Answers

Basements are almost unheard of in Texas.
I always thought that basements were almost mandatory "up North" because of frost heaving problems.

I have recently noticed many cold climate examples that do not employ basements.

Most noteable..... German Passivhaus examples.
Almost all of the modern German examples do not include basements.

After seeing a video of Dan Morrison's basement .. I can see why youz guys may be reluctant to give up your basements ;-)
In Texas our Garages look much like your basements..... "Full of Stuff"

A basement is a deep crawl space...

Asked By John Brooks | Feb 25 10
2 Answers

I have read your comments extensively and find the information very helpful. However, I have several concerns about my proposed construction.

I plan to construct a vented cathedral ceiling using pre-engineered wood trusses at 24" on center with 2x12 top chords in a Zone 4A location. The IRC 2012 allows R-30 for cathedral ceilings less than 500 SF or 20% of the total roof and my project qualifies for this exception.

My proposed construction includes:
1. Composite polymer shingles over Zip-system 5/8" sheathing and ice dam protection at the eaves

Asked By James Enloe | Jul 14 14
1 Answer

(Zone 4c)

Asked By Nick Welch | Jul 14 14
3 Answers

I am building a earth-sheltered passive block home. I want to insulate it all from the outside. I have been trying to get Roxul Drainboard in 3.5 inches but cannot afford a whole truckload to do a small home. So I'm thinking of using 4 inches of XPS foam under slab and all walls.

Any suggestions for water proofing exterior of block and fastening XPS to all the walls?

Thank you.
Michael

Asked By michael holler | Jul 11 14
2 Answers

We are in a 5A climate zone, near Chicago. We wanted to add a retractable pool enclosure up against an existing house that would be used year round. http://www.libart.com/evolution-lean-to-structures

The existing house has a wall construction what has fiber cement siding, 1" rigid insulation with taped seams, Tyvek, 5/8" plywood, 2x6 framing with open cell insulation and drywall on the interior. See attached image. Keep in mind that this wall was build 9 or so years ago.

Asked By Nathan Kipnis | Jul 11 14
3 Answers

Hi there~
I am a homeowner in Philadelphia, PA. I am wanting to renovate a building as energy efficiently as possible and my limits are by funding. My plan is to stretch funding by phasing in things. Windows are an immediate need. My windows research let me to a thread on this site discovered Intus windows. I will be reaching out to a dealer tomorrow (closed today). And, I'm wondering if anyone has a estimate of pricing. The windows seems incredible in terms of efficiency, and I'm concerned they will be out of my league financially. Maybe compare to an Andersen series 400 window.

Asked By Terrie Lewine | Jul 13 14
3 Answers

Would installing vertical furring strips next to the sheathing and behind the rigid foam help the wall to breathe and still maintain R values? I am in Zone 7 and considering adding foam to the exterior since I am residing. Or is this just overkill? Thanks for any replies.

My wall from the inside out would consist of:
Paint
1/2" Drywall
Poly Vapour barrier
2"x4" studs ( fiberglass batt insulation)
3/8" plywood
** 1/4" furring strips **
2" rigid foam
Tyvek building wrap
Hardie Plank siding

Asked By David Bee | Jul 13 14
7 Answers

I'm looking for a detail for integrating an insect screen with vertical corrugated metal siding that is meant to function as rainscreen.

Are the typical metal J-trims and flashings enough to keep bugs out of the corrugated flutes or is there a better way?

Asked By Daryl Ross | Jul 12 14
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