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5 Answers

Mod-con forced hot water system that squeals

My plumber recently replaced the boiler in my small 3-zone Colonial with a Lochinvar WHN-85 boiler with a Lochinvar SIT 40 indirect water heater. Seems to work well, but I've been having trouble with noise.

First, the boiler occasionally emitted what I called a foghorn noise out of the exhaust pipe (the plumber opined it was a French horn). The solution was to tune the mixture to the rich side of the specified range (i.e. more gas per air, and more CO2 in the exhaust), which made it go away.

Asked By Daniel Griscom | Nov 19 14
10 Answers

Crawl space encapsulation

Hey Folks - I know the topics has been covered but I am still scratching my head and need some clarification and I will but this project to rest.

Crawlspace Encapsulation

I live north of Seattle, WA. in Bellingham - I believe it to be Zone 4a (Marine Zone)
I have about 1000 sq. ft. of crawlspace I am beginning to encapsulate.
I have no bulk water issues.
I have 12 mil SilverBack liner for the walls and 20mil SilverBack liner for the earth.
I found a great deal on new Polyiso fiberglass faced rigid foam board 2" thick. (Firestone ISO 95)

Asked By William Lucrisia | Nov 17 14
3 Answers

Does radiant heat recycle water

With regular radiant heating systems that use warm/hot water to run through tubes in the floor to heat the home, what happens to this water - does it get recycled through the system, heated up again, or does it go down a drain?

Asked By Celina Jones | Nov 22 14
10 Answers

Plumbing vents exiting ridge cap

Can't seem to find anything in the code, easily missed though. I have a customer who wants a metal roof installed however they have had bad experiences with pipe flashings through the roof and don't like the look of them. While I don't care for the pipe boots, (for metal roofing), appearance they seem to work well.

Anyway, to the question... Is there anything code or common sense wise that says vents couldn't go through the ridge cap? I know it wouldn't look as good but, would limit water flowing over them.

Asked By RMills Miller | Nov 21 14
23 Answers

Rheem's condensing water heaters (storage)

Hi,

My 14-year-old electric water heater is starting to look a little long in the tooth. Time to upgrade.

So, I'm looking for intel on Rheem's Professional Prestige Series: High Efficiency Condensing Power Direct Vent (RHE50) or its sister sold by Home Depot - Rheem EcoSense High Efficiency Power Direct Vent (ECORHE50).

I can't find any online reviews of either product (save one favorable review on HD's site).

For several reasons, I'm looking at a high efficiency storage water heater instead of tankless.

Asked By Michael Brahmey | Oct 11 14
11 Answers

Options for garage heat

I would like opinions regarding options for heating a garage. I know, I know, "Why the H@!! are you heating a garage?" will come to mind for many of you. Others will agree that it saves on car repair costs, improves longevity, and allows for storage of "perishables" such as paint cans, bulk canned garden vegetables, and other things wife understandably does not want in house.

Here are the pertinent factors shaping the decision:
* Super-insulated house, Manual J heat load calc gives 12,400 BTU/h (3.6 kW) peak heating requirement (for garage alone)

Asked By Kent Jeffery | Nov 20 14
1 Answer

ICF & window areas WITHOUT wood bucks

I observed an ICF build that did NOT use wood window bucks for the window areas. They used some temporary wood shoring but once the shoring was removed the window area was all raw concrete and ICF/EPS foam. The windows will be installed directly into the concrete using concrete screws and window brackets. The windows will be installed halfway in the window area or otherwise known as an "innie" window.

Asked By Peter L | Nov 22 14
12 Answers

Detail for stone veneer

I am looking for a wall framing detail that includes a stone veneer face over 1" ridged insulation. It seems to me that after a rain screen detail over the rigid, the next surface would be OSB or plywood that metal lath would be adhered for applying the stone veneer? So the assembly would be 2x6 stud wall, OSB, WRB, 1" ridged insulation, rain screen (lath, Coravent, etc), 1/2" plywood, metal lath, stone veneer.

Asked By Robert Holland | Nov 16 14
1 Answer

Rigid polyiso in side attics?

As a spray foam alternative, I'm considering using continuous rigid foam along the 32ft long x 7ft slope in my side attic and just spray foaming in the lower joist bays and places where taping is difficult. The attics are about as simple as can be with no dormers or other obstructions. I will need 8" of polyiso to meet my disired R-value (R-48), while keeping the 2x4 rafter bays wide open for ventilation. There are also HVAC ducts and plumbing in the attic, which is why I'd like to convert it conditioned space.

Asked By Ryan Griffin | Nov 22 14
1 Answer

High R-value CMU?

They are claiming R 19.5 on an 8 inch CMU. I guess they are adding up inches of EPS and not deducting for the LARGE thermal bridging effects:

http://www.emcoblock.com/products/block/omni-block-high-r-block.php

I'm not crazy am I? This is outlandishism in terms of r value performance?

Asked By leo kloop | Nov 22 14
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