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0 Answers

Review of insulation/air sealing retrofit plan...

For a cathedral ceiling, still a popular subject of concern I see. I have gotten advice before and used this site to increase my understanding of many building issues. The ceiling currently, from the inside, has V-groove pine boards, then a 12" kraft faced fiberglass batt, no air sealing. There is a vent channel above the fiberglass of unknown thickness and quality (I ran into the builder and asked if it was 2", and he replied "probably less"). The decking is 3/4" OSB, asphalt shingles above (now at 25 years).

Asked By Howard Gentler | Mar 28 15
0 Answers

I need assistance with window/door install with 4" foam

I am looking for some direction on installing windows and doors. I have 4" exterior EPS on a 2x6 walls

The current plan is to build 5/8" plywood boxes (I believe they are called Dewey boxes) to get the nail fin of the window to the same plane as the furring strips that the foam and the siding will be attached to.
I am sure its been covered but searching Dewey box got me 0 results so I wonder if someone could point me in the right direction?

Thanks
Tim (Kenora ON Canada zone 7)

Asked By tim brown | Mar 28 15
1 Answer

Cold climate (6) standing seam metal roof leak

I have concerns my entire roof is leaking due to improper detailing of my standing seam roof. I also think this discussion could help others who might be thinking of a standing seam metal roof. They are not what they're all cracked up to be. Please look at enclosed photos.

Some details:
I have a shed roof (Structure are I-Joists) with a 3 1/4: 12 pitch. R-60 insulation in cathedral ceiling--"flash and batt." "Flash" is 4-6" closed-cell polyurethane spray foam. Hot roof: Fully Zip taped, Zip sheathing and GAF underlayment. And finally: 1" single-lock standing seam Galvalume.

Asked By David Metzger | Mar 28 15
11 Answers

Alternate cathedral ceiling retrofit

I have a project related to a thread titled "How can I best retrofit and insulate an existing cathedral ceiling?" In my case, the zone 4b semi-arid west texas 1978 home's cathedral area has low density glass batts (or none) along with 1x10 or 12 deck boards over 2x12 rafters. The shingles above this unvented space have some blistering, and I was going to replace them along with resetting two skylight curbs that are incorrectly installed and caused some sheet rock damage from skylight leakage.

Asked By Glen Poklikuha | Mar 27 15
1 Answer

New Home buyer,Metal Roof in Maine With No Sheathing? Please Help

Hello all,

I am a first time home buyer and looking into buying a new home. My wife and I have found the perfect home here in Maine, but found out today that the metal roof was attached directly to the perlins. I know typically there is supposed to be sheathing and a vapor barrier in between. I have found information on both sides of the argument, which have led me here. Is no sheathing adequate? How will it affect my energy use? and will it be a condensation issue? Is this ok for a cold climate here in Maine?

Asked By dimitrios maniatakos | Mar 28 15
6 Answers

Rigid foam roof insulation and polyethylene vapor barrier inside — problem?

Was planning on a r-25 insulated roof deck for a ski house in lower zone 6 NH with cold roof (strapping with plywood) on top of that to help prevent ice dams.
Existing cathedral ceiling is actual 8" rafters framed 24" o.c. with 6" paper faced fiberglass batts. In exploring the original construction (circa 1980) I also found a layer of POLY as an additional vapor barrier....which sabotages my R-25 rigid foam roof plan.....damn.

Asked By Dirk Gently | Mar 27 15
13 Answers

Non-typical insulation of barn / garage

I live in Interior Alaska Zone 7/8. I have a rather large barn pole barn that needs to be insulated so it can be heated. Since it is rural there is no code but i want to ensure that i do not do something that damages or ruins the building over the long term with that said money is not unlimited. The space is intended to be heated to just above freezing 35 to 40 typical with the ability to warm even more during use. Not a business just personal use during the week.

Barn size is 50x60 with 14 foot walls.

Asked By James Williamson | Mar 22 15
9 Answers

Attic insulation reality check

It's time to get my attic air sealed and re-insulated and I've committed to hiring it out since the 6/12 pitch truss attic is a horrible place that I hate to work in. I'm having trouble finding people willing to blow cellulose. Everyone around here seems to want to blow fiberglass. Is this a major issue?

The first bid I've gotten is $3.20/sf for attic floor air sealing and R-30 worth of blown fiberglass. Sane/insane?

Asked By Nathaniel G | Mar 26 15
11 Answers

Insulating scissor truss

Hi, I am building my first house, what a project that has turned out to be but that's for another day. Anyways, our great room has scissor trusses for a nice pitched ceiling. I would like to have at least 24" of insulation to keep things nice and toasty in the winter. There is a 4' overhang outside on either end. I nailed a 24" high plywood leaving a vent space above where the red is on the layout. My question is what material and how to go about it. To use the high density cellulose is has to be contained by some mesh? Any input appreciated.

Asked By Tom Smith | Jul 19 14
11 Answers

Fresh air distribution for hydronically heated house?

Currently have a leaky hydronically-heated house.

I plan on removing the siding, installing blueskin VP peel-and-stick, then 2 layers of Roxul R6 ComfortBoard IS from the roof right down to the footings.

Because this should really improve the air leakage, how should I get fresh air in/out of the house to control humidity / air quality / etc?

Do people run a set of air ducts throughout the house from a HRV?

One of the appeals of using hydronic heating is that sound / dust transmission is significantly reduced.

What would you recommend??

Thanks!
.../j

Asked By John Charlesworth | Mar 26 15
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