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10 Answers

I put the cart before the horse, and selected the house depicted below to build in the Adirondacks, NY. After working out the design details inside the house, I moved to the outside. I questioned the building designer about the low profile 3/12 pitch roof and how it is vented on the high edge, and the reply was "this home uses water impenetrable closed cell urethane insulation, sprayed in to fill the cavity from below prior to drywalling, and it therefore unvented.

Asked By Don Moore | Jul 23 14
4 Answers

I had a new central air installed, and the gas line is against the flue on the heater.

Asked By MARK ALATORRE | Jul 23 14
18 Answers

I am building a home with a conditioned attic. I will be spraying 11-12 inches of open cell foam underneath the roof sheathing. I need to allow the sheathing to breathe to the exterior, for it will not breathe to the interior with the 12 inches of foam. Thus, I was wondering if anyone was aware of a roof underlayment (other than building paper) that is breathable, durable, and that has a high exposure rate.

Asked By JAMES MOYER | Jul 22 09
3 Answers

Hello,
I currently building an addition and plan on putting up a knotty pine tongue and groove (1x6, 3/4" thick) ceiling attached to the bottom of scissors trusses. The trusses are 24" on center. I plan on putting up 5/8" drywall first to get an airtight assembly. The tongue and groove pine is end matched (ends are tongue and groove as well). My question is this, with the drywall up, am I ok not ending each piece of pine on a truss seeing that the ends are also tongue and groove, or am I asking for trouble if the boards aren't nailed on the ends?

Asked By SCOTT KOONS | Jul 23 14
5 Answers

Hello folks,

First, I'd just like to say how thankful I am for the invaluable resource that is GBA. I spend A LOT of time reading the blogs and Q&A and I find that pretty much any question I might have has been covered here already. Though sometimes my understanding gets a little vague regarding certain details so I am hoping for some input on a potential wall detail.

Asked By Noah Byler | Jul 23 14
5 Answers

I am about to start framing up walls for my woodshop. The existing slab slopes from back to front a total of about 4" over the length of 28'-0"....yes, 4". The concrete crew did a terrible job. I need some advise on the best/most efficient way of dealing with this slope in the slab when framing the walls. I feel a tight connection with a PT sill plate to the slab is crucial. So, I could:
1) Frame walls square on ground and then deal with space between PT seal plate and bottom plate of wall with large shims. Doing this though, I worry about a good connection to the sill plate.

Asked By Zane Morgan | Jul 23 14
3 Answers

Which type of spray foam is recommended, open or closed-cell?

I'm about to remove my blown-in insulation out of the attic, and I was trying to figure out which product is recommended -- the open or the closed-cell?

Asked By TERRY KELLEY | Jul 22 14
7 Answers

I am in the process of fine tuning the details of a one and a half story house I would like to build next year. It will be in Northern New York on the border of the 5A and 6A climate zones The upstairs has a knee wall and a couple access doors to the attic space. I think I have decided to just run the zip-system up the walls and around the top of the roof rafters to simplify the air sealing.

Asked By Dillon Vautrin | Jul 23 14
3 Answers

Given all the complex issues covered on this site, this question might seem rather pedestrian....

I am not going to change out the doors on my house, but I would like to get them more airtight. In particular, I have two sliding patio glass doors, and my front door is a wood double door that has one door latched into the other (double swing in without a jamb piece between the individual doors).

Asked By Steve Young | Jul 23 14
1 Answer

(Examples of what I am referring to can be seen at: http://vastern.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Splayed-cladding-detail.jpg AND http://www.bartonqualitytimber.co.uk/images/categories/chestnut%20claddi... )

I am not terribly conceded about the cedar: if it is stained all 6 sides with two coats and placed on black painted strapping, then it should handle the elements reasonably well. My main concern is what the substrate behind it should be.

Asked By Burke Stoller | Jul 18 14
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