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1 Answer

Is this my best foundation choice?

First off, Green Building Advisor has been invaluable in my research to design my future home and have found it well worth the membership cost. So thank you, to all you who have made this site what it is.

I am planning on building a 1700 sq ft ranch style straw bale house near Cortez Co (climate zone 5B). Currently I am sketching up layouts, making lots of notes on building techniques, choosing home fixtures (doors/windows), HVAC systems and researching different build options, before I take my plans to an architect so he can refine and incorporate them.

Asked By Ken Hodge | Apr 29 16
2 Answers

Finishing a damp basement

I have a client that lives in an early 1900's home here in Minneapolis. Her current foundation is stone not block and is quite rough on both sides. She wants to finish the inside of the basement and add framed walls and drywall. She gets a minor amount of dampness on the wall and it is virtually impossible to waterproof this wall since it is such a rough stone. She does not get standing water but just dampness on the wall a times.

Asked By Chris McGuire | Apr 29 16
1 Answer

Best Wall System for Vermont

I am building a modular home in Chittenden County Vermont and have been debating what type of wall system and insulation combination will be best. There are three wall systems under consideration, but I am open to alternatives.

1) 2x8 framing 16" on center with Roxul cavity insulation (R30) and Thermalstar sheathing w/1.5" EPS foam (R7.5) for total R-value of 37.5.

2) 2x6 framing 16" on center with Roxul cavity insulation (R24) and 2" polyiso rigid foam (R13) for a total R-value of 37.

3) 10" double stud 2x4 wall, BIBS cavity insulation and Zip sheathing for total R-value of 39.

Asked By Craig A | Apr 29 16
5 Answers

Any vented attic air sealing tricks? And recommended R-values? Blown fiberglass?

I am building a home in climate zone C4 and am getting ready for insulation at last. I have wrapped the house with a layer of 1" xps already, but am getting ready for the rest. The local insulation contractor is pushing blown fiberglass over blown cellulose, what do you guys think about this, I have heard it settles less. Most of the house has cantilevered scissor trusses. Do you guys have any good practices for air sealing around all of the electrical lighting boxes (not cans) that I have installed in the ceiling?

Asked By Kail Zuschlag | Apr 28 16
23 Answers

Transoms and Ductless Minisplits

Hello,

I am trying to heat and cool my second floor with one 12,000 btu ductless minisplit. I have heard that this is possible if I keep the bedroom doors open during the day to facilitate circulation of the hot or cool air.

However, does it get uncomfortable quickly in the night when the doors are closed. If so, I was thinking of putting in operable transoms over the doors. The only problem is they are kind of expensive (~$275 from transomsdirect.com). Attached is my floor plan. I will be putting ceiling fans in each bedroom so maybe the transoms would be overkill?

Asked By Jimmy Nguyen | Mar 10 16
12 Answers

Insulating cathedral ceiling

I have a late 1970's contemporary home that has non-ventilated cathedral ceilings that do not connect to a ridge vent - they do have sofit vents but don't see how that helps. From the middle of the house there is a 2nd floor where I can get to the point where these roofs join and can see there is little to no insulation. I believe I can remove what is there with extension poles.
My question: What are my insulation options. I assume some type of insulation that can be sprayed (foam or wet ?)

Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan

Asked By Dan Colucci | Apr 21 16
8 Answers

Latex paint on fieldstone foundation

Hi,

Asked By Lucas Bender | Apr 29 16
4 Answers

Ducted or ductless?

Hey guys,

Still working on my house specs for my 2800 sqft house just outside of DFW. I really want to have my ducts inside the conditioned space but this seems really difficult unless you foam the underside of the roof. So, I've seen these ductless units and wondering if it's practical and maybe less costly. The big challenge, I think, would be the house is single story, spread-out and lots of rooms. Thoughts? I tried to attach the pdf floor plan but it failed. If you want to see the plan I can email, etc.

Thanks,
Shawn

Asked By Shawn Tucker | Apr 28 16
1 Answer

Patio roof on top of insulated roof detail?

Zone 4A, hip roof with 4:12 pitch; spray foam insulation to be on the interior side of the roof deck (not ventilated). I will be adjoining a new roof out over a patio, placing the new ridge and rafters on top of the existing zip sheathing . The patio roof will have exposed rafters, and the wall of the house will extend up to the new ridge, so the part behind this vertical wall that joins with the existing roof will create a dead space.

Question: is the dead space between insulated roof deck and addition an issue?

Asked By David McNeely | Apr 29 16
7 Answers

Why are my windows wet?

4 year-old 2800 SF home in Duluth (zone 7A). Very tight construction, Well insulated etc. Using a Venmar HE1.8 HRV running full blast. We still have 1-2 inches of condensation and some ice along the bottom of our windows when the temp is <0F at night. (low-E H-windows).

Is our HRV sized too small, or am I doing something wrong?

Asked By Jeffrey Lyon | Dec 11 13
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