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0 Answers

Botched weatherization retrofit

My weatherization contractor is supposed to follow the BPI (building performance institute) standards for installation. At least, this is what my contract states. The standards that I found on the BPI site state "Where soffit vents are present, and access is viable, appropriate blocking or baffles are required to provide protection from wind-washing where insulation exists." The contractor installed 2 things questionably. Well, one may fall into a bit of a gray area I guess, but the other seems just plain incorrect.

Asked By Michael Lee | Nov 24 14
4 Answers

Locating flue hole without removing wall paneling

I am trying to install a wood stove in a room that has paneling on the walls. The chimney flue has been covered by the paneling. I'd rather not remove the paneling because it was glued to the wall when installed. I have tried several ways to do this but was not successful. I dropped a measuring tape down the chimney, took a measurement but was way too low for the flue when I laid the measurement out. Check the room next to this room and found the chimney and a sealed flue on the opposite side of the chimney. Thought about knocking out the plaster or concrete seal, still an option though.

Asked By Louie Bruno | Nov 19 14
3 Answers

Could you please provide me of an example of a temporary one-floor sustainable building?

I am currently undergoing a project at college and i need to research temporary sustainable buildings

Asked By Alfie Andrews | Nov 24 14
3 Answers

Windows yes, but what about doors?

I was wondering if doors in the US are also rated like windows (at least in europe) for air leakage, etc?

Any tips on reasonably priced (maybe to much to wish for) exterior door manufacturers that do a good job on air sealing their units?

I build in Northern Zone 3.

Asked By leo kloop | Nov 17 14
1 Answer

Brands of HRV?

Anyone have any experience with either Lifebreath or Imperial HRVs? My architect specified Zehnder, but my HVAC guy has installed Lifebreath and Imperial, but not Zehnder.

Asked By stephen sheehy | Nov 17 14
14 Answers

Options for garage heat

I would like opinions regarding options for heating a garage. I know, I know, "Why the H@!! are you heating a garage?" will come to mind for many of you. Others will agree that it saves on car repair costs, improves longevity, and allows for storage of "perishables" such as paint cans, bulk canned garden vegetables, and other things wife understandably does not want in house.

Here are the pertinent factors shaping the decision:
* Super-insulated house, Manual J heat load calc gives 12,400 BTU/h (3.6 kW) peak heating requirement (for garage alone)

Asked By Kent Jeffery | Nov 20 14
1 Answer

Stranded Bamboo Flooring, Is it a good choice?

We are building a home in Alabama on the coast. We have a crawlspace sealed foundation that is dehumified. We are looking at purchasing 5/8 - 1/2 Stranded, Carbonized, bamboo flooring. We are getting mixed reviews on whether this is a good choice. We've heard the following:

Pro - it's solid engineered so it can be sanded and refinished. The color is the same all the way through. Compared to engeered wood which can only be sanded and refinished once.

Pro - Harder than most woods, and compares to engineered wood in that it's harder to scratch.

Asked By Mary Smart | Nov 20 14
2 Answers

Mitsubishi M-Series New FH vs. Old FE models

We're in the market for an M-series heat pump and dealers have been quoting us the older FE models rather than the newer FH models. Is it a mistake to purchase an older model that will probably be discontinued sooner rather than later? I would think so. Thoughts? Thanks.

Asked By David Greenberg | Nov 21 14
10 Answers

Help with green addition and hydronic heat demo

I am in the process of designing a pretty substantial addition onto my home in central Missouri. I understand that our relatively low electricity costs will not be around in the next 5-10 years in the US and am planning for this.

Asked By Michael McArdle | Nov 23 14
8 Answers

Rigid polyiso in side attics?

As a spray foam alternative, I'm considering using continuous rigid foam along the 32ft long x 7ft slope in my side attic and just spray foaming in the lower joist bays and places where taping is difficult. The attics are about as simple as can be with no dormers or other obstructions. I will need 8" of polyiso to meet my disired R-value (R-48), while keeping the 2x4 rafter bays wide open for ventilation. There are also HVAC ducts and plumbing in the attic, which is why I'd like to convert it conditioned space.

Asked By Ryan Griffin | Nov 22 14
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