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0 Answers

Steel Sided, Conventionally Framed, Closed Cell Foam Insulated Home

I have been pondering building a low cost, high efficiency, low maintenance retirement home, and would like some input on my theoretical systems.

The structure would have conventionally framed, 2x6 walls, with no sheathing. In it's place, would be diagonally place structural supports(2" x 2") spaced at 24". In that 24" space would be 2" foam. The wall would than be strapped horizontally(2" x 2"), and spaced at 24" with foam in that space as well. The steel siding would then be installed, and attached to the horizontal strapping, and through to framing.

Asked By Maine Builder | Feb 11 16
37 Answers

Best way to fix insulation problem in cathedral ceiling? Please help!

I built my chalet about 8 yrs ago and was up in the attic and noticed black water stains (probably mold).
after many days and night researching what was wrong, i believe my issue is insulation and air leakage.
i have called all the insulation and roofing businesses (not many in this area) and each says its the others issue.

this site has been the most informative, but i cant seem to find any article or videos on how to add or change insulation in a cathedral ceiling after construction has been done.

Asked By Aaron H | Jan 31 16
12 Answers

Are holes in exterior plywood sheathing necessary?

We are building a new home on the west coast of BC. Our framer has placed large diameter holes in the exterior plywood sheathing saying this is necessary to meet code and allow the exterior to breathe. Our concern is that when other protective layers placed over the sheathing break down over time (plastic and tape and glue only last so long) we have a welcome entry point for water, rodents, carpenter ants ect. How does this practice fit into an 'airtight' home??
We are not builders but can't find anywhere noted that these holes are necessary. Thoughts, advice or comments appreciated.

Asked By Frances Bucinel | Feb 10 16
14 Answers

Proper crawl space encapsulation and also radon mitigation questions

Hello, I own a 1968 cape cod style home in East Stroudsburg in the Poconos, PA (region 5). It has a full basement with 7' ceilings and concrete floor with probably little to no crushed stone underneath. At some point, there was a ditch cut out along 2 of the walls, with stone and probably a perforated pipe added, and concrete poured back except for a small channel along the block wall. This leads to a sump pit.

Adjacent to one of these 2 walls is a crawl space entrance where an addition was put in.

Asked By Ryan O'Rourke | Jan 26 16
4 Answers

Effects of 2" to 3" PVC dry drain pipes through crawl space

Good evening. I have a 2,600 SF home that has 900 SF crawl space under half of it. The builder placed all the overflow type drains (next to water heater/washer, next to my mechanicals, etc, to run to daylight into my far yard. These don't have water traps because they run to daylight I suppose and rarely if ever have drain water in them.

My house does not use A/C and in winter we currently use a large indoor wood burning stove and supplement cold rooms with electric oil radiant heaters, as-needed.

Asked By Andy Nels | Feb 11 16
16 Answers

Mitsubisi Heat Pump- heat and cool

I am building a 1 1/2 story barn/garage 36 X 34 with an open upstair 2nd floor. It will have 2" form in the walls and 3" sprayed form in the ceiling. Cement floor. not too many windows and 2 garage doors.

I don't need it heated like a home but just confortable when I work in the barn. I would like to keep it about 40 degrees in the winter when not in use and will rarely need it cool in the summer. I live in southern CT.

I've been looking at the high efficienty units around 24,000 BTU. I also need to be able to set the temperature low (about 40) when not in use.

Asked By Fred Gabriele | Jan 31 16
2 Answers

Replace 1x6 shear brace with OSB panel?

Hi Folks,

I am in the process of building out my 1350 sq ft barn for use as a sculpture studio (i do mostly wood and metal fab).

(see my other questions here)
Read more: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/community/forum/energy-efficiency-an...

Asked By Benjamin Jones | Feb 11 16
2 Answers

Insulating walls and ceiling for a barn workshop

Hi Folks,

I am in the process of building out my 1350 sq ft barn for use as a sculpture studio (i do mostly wood and metal fab). I use the space year round, and before insulation I can barely keep it in the low 40s with a 35k BTU pellet stove running 24/7.

The barn is sided with 1x12" eastern pine board and batten (all dims are actual not nominal) The roof and walls are 2x6 rough hemlock or eastern pine. Between the b&b siding and the studs is a very cracked/UV damaged poly barrier.

Asked By Benjamin Jones | Feb 11 16
3 Answers

Gasket material for Seiho vents?

I am installing Seiho vents on metal siding. Does anyone know of a good gasket material or similar product to keep water from making it behind the vent? My thought was to cinch the vents tight to the metal and sheathing with screws and include a gasket and bead of silicone around the edge.

Asked By C. Maglio | Feb 11 16
7 Answers

GSHP and an endless pool

We have slowly been renovating our 115 year old, 2200 sq ft farm house over the past 12 years and live in northern Michigan (climate zone 6). This year we are replacing the 60 year old aluminum siding and roof and upgrading the walls to r30 and the roof to r60. We are also adding a 2425 gal endless pool/spa to the outdoor covered porch. I understand an outdoor pool in northern Michigan probably doesn't fall into the category of green building but it will definitely be fun!

Asked By Ryan Knight | Feb 9 16
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