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46 Answers

Questioning my logic...GSHP, ASHP, radiant?

I'm in the planning/almost ready to break ground stage of a new home and I'm beginning to question my sanity when it comes to figuring out the right approach for heating & cooling.

The home is:
North end of Climate Zone 5
Main Floor: 1700 sq ft + 1000 sq ft garage, vaulted ceilings through much of it
2nd Floor: 1100 sq ft (2 bedrooms, 2 baths, living room) primarily over the garage
Basement: 1700 sq ft, partial walkout + 1000 sq ft shop under the garage (separated from the rest of the basement)

Walls: R30+ (2x6, 2" XPS outside, 2lb SPF for sealing + 1/2lb SPF for cavity fill)

Asked By Dave De C | Jul 16 16
0 Answers

Abandoned brick chimney - is it hurting energy efficiency?

Brick single-story house, brick chimney protrudes from the exterior wall from ground level, basement.

Furnace & water heater used to exhaust - clay liner.

Water heater was then orphaned, smaller metal liner inside the clay liner.

Water heater was then removed. Metal liner capped from the bottom.

At this point the chimney is unused. It's still open from the top, has a cap, but has a couple "tin-can" caps at the bottom where the furnace & water heater flues would connect.

Asked By j pritzen | Jul 23 16
7 Answers

We are building a 700-sq.-ft. cottage on southern Vancouver Island, Zone 4 Marine

The plan is to use 4 inches polyisocyanurate - R22.6 - (glass fiber covering) exterior insulation no sheathing except for earthquake walls. No insulation in the 2x4 wall cavities, tyvek on the exterior of the foam and vapor barrier between the polyiso and the framing. ls this ok or will we have problems. We have to present our wall assembly plans to the city and the city wants a vapor barrier but we are not sure if this is necessary.
Sandra Garraway

Asked By Sandra Garraway | Jul 22 16
0 Answers

Ads on GBA prime

Over the last week I've noticed the appearance of advertisement on GBA prime. Is this due to a technical problem or is it the result of a change in vision?

My decision to join GBA prime was motivated by the fact that it would be free of ads. I'm sorry to say that if this is the direction that Taunton Press wishes to follow, that once my membership runs its course that I will regrettably not be renewing.

Asked By Marc Labrie | Jul 23 16
0 Answers

I have a 1950 brick clad house and want to improve the wall insulation.

There is an air gap between the brick and the sheathing (shiplap) but no weep holes are apparent at the top or the bottom. In most place the brick appears to be sitting on the concrete foundation in a bed of mortar. In some areas there is a strip of what appears to be metal between the brick and the foundation. The lone area where the interior wall has been opened has about an inch to an inch and a half of faced fiberglass - facing is to the interior. There is extensive overhang with the roof.

Asked By Andrea Quimby | Jul 23 16
4 Answers

Exterior walls to meet code without gypsum?

Hello,

Maybe this has been discussed here. Feel free to link me to other threads that I haven't seen if this is fully covered elsewhere.

I'm not a fan of drywall. A quick rundown with no real surprises: it used to be cheaper; now it's not. It also takes plenty of work and more money to make it look nice. It's heavy but also very breakable. Even when you don't break it, it's messy. Etc, etc. I *am* a fan of 3/4 plywood, which is less breakable, more durable, and looks nice.

Asked By Minneapolis Disaster, 6B | Jul 22 16
20 Answers

Ramblings on thermal mass, AC and window fans

This is isn't really a specific question so feel free to offer random thoughts

Asked By Alan B | Jul 10 16
15 Answers

Fluid WRB at big box stores?

Hello,

I am interested in building a workshop/studio 16'x12'x12' and am interested in using a WRB. I read the wrb in a can article on this website and lots of other information on the subject. When I look at the mentioned products, they do not seem to be accessible in local stores or something that a non-contract professional can find. Is there a Home Depot or Lowes type solution? This studio will be assembled in the order of a 2x4 framed, OSB sheathed, fluid WRB, drain wrap, 3" XPS and seam sealed, rainscreen, fiber cement.

Asked By John Haller | Jul 21 16
5 Answers

Tying in Addition Roof

I'm having trouble finding definitive answers on how to tie in my additions roof.

The home is a basic ranch roof, no dormers on the addition, just a straight roof. I'll be tying the addition into the gable end of the existing home using the same roof pitch and truss design for the most part.

-Should I just snap a line and cut the eave, including shingles and fascia right off? I know the fascia will have to go to get the new truss in at some point.

-Do I need to weave in the plywood to the original roof if there will be a new truss sistered up to the gable?

Asked By Mike M | Jul 20 16
7 Answers

Spam

I see GBA is being attacked by spam. I don't want to give this more attention than it deserves, but can someone tell me why this occurs? What benefit is there to whoever fills the Q and A with this content? If my question is some way aids them, please delete it.

Asked By Malcolm Taylor | Apr 21 16
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