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0 Answers

Venting in open-face cladding

We are completing the exterior cladding for the house, in climate zone 5, Pittsburgh, PA. The cladding is high density fiber cement panel, over 3x1 wood rainscreen, and per manufacture's instructions, we left 3/8'' gaps between panels, in both horizontal and vertical directions. Rainscreen wood is covered with EPDM rubber prior to installing the panels. The instructions also call for leaving 13/16'' (2 cm) ventilation gap below the roof, but spot-check inspection shows that some of these gaps were really closer to 1/4'' or even less.

Asked By Lucyna de Barbaro | Feb 10 16
13 Answers

Whirlpool HybridCare discontinued?

I was just looking on the Whirlpool website for some information on the HybridCare ventless heat pump dryer, and it is listed as discontinued!

I contacted them to confirm and find out if a new model will be coming out or if they are abandoning their heat pump technology, but have not heard back.

Anybody else hear anything on this?

Thanks.

Asked By Stephen Youngquist | Jan 27 16
4 Answers

Best brand of screws with washers for steel roofing?

The painted steel roofing panels on my simple 4:12 gable roof will be attached to 2x4 strapping with exposed fasteners. The #9 x 1-1/2" screws with EPDM washers used to secure the roofing to the wood range from around 12 cents each made by Metal Sales, who make lots of steel roofing such as ClassicRib, to a not-yet-specified brand that are 8 cents each. The Metal Sales screws are described as having "Metal encapsulated in EPDM for extra strength." How significant are the differences between the brands of these screws, and which do you recommend?

Asked By Jeff Cooper | Feb 9 16
3 Answers

Does anyone have experience with Zehnder ComfoFlex?

We are building a new house and in the final stages of design. The design includes an HRV and Zehnder ComfoTube looked great until I discovered that it is not UL listed. So, I'm curious if anyone can provide feedback on ComfoFlex. There isn't much on the intertubes...

Asked By Trevor Fontaine | Feb 9 16
2 Answers

Duct manifold for a stand-alone ERV

I'm trying to figure out the best way to install my ERV ductwork. I don't have a forced air system, so each supply or exhaust will have it's own duct. I have seen the typical trunk/branch method, but a manifold system seems easier. Does anyone have experience with building a manifold system for mechanical ventilation? I will have three exhaust ports and four fresh air ports. I've looked at the Zehnder systems and they look pretty slick, but I cannot afford the price. I am leaning toward Thermaflex ducts, which are high quality flexible ducts usually used in commercial applications. Thank you!

Asked By Adam Emter | Feb 9 16
2 Answers

Do they sell Dow Thermax anymore?

I have a big basement I need to insulate from the interior and I'd like to avoid the cost of framing and drywall since the basement will only be used for storage.

Do they still make Dow Thermax? I can't seem to find it anywhere. Is there a new product that meets the fire ratings as Thermax, that won't require drywall over it?

Asked By Clay Whitenack | Feb 9 16
5 Answers

Another “rigid-foam attached to the underside of rafters” plan

This is new construction with an all hip roof with a very short ridge located in the northern part of zone 3. I’ve ended up with a large cathedral ceiling area which opens to additional living space tucked under the roof resulting in an unvented attic. Is my insulation plan workable? Might I have future water issues? Will my stack-up breathe and dry sufficiently? What issues will the trades find with the plan? is there a better plan?

Asked By Richard | Dec 28 15
7 Answers

Spray foam directly on underside of roof?

I have a conditioned attic, currently insulated with R19 fiberbatts between the rafters. No airsealing, hence I want to remove the fiberbatts and spray 3 inches of closed cell spray foam in before putting the fiberbatts back in place. The attic is unvented, for instance no ridge vent exists. Should I put any membrane or the like on the underside of the roof sheathing before spraying the foam in ? I was thinking that would help with keeping the insulation intact in case the roof needed repair later on?

Asked By matthias paustian | Feb 9 16
8 Answers

Leaky Ductwork in Basement

After getting a very poorly rated energy audit from our electric company, I'm working diligently to get our house more air tight. Seeing lots of posts about HVAC equipment, I'm thinking ours is a little lacking. It is 5 years old, the furnace is 95% efficient. But, the black tape is falling off and according to infrared, it is leaking. I've attached several pictures and also infrared pictures. We are in zone 5 (NW MO). It is 20 degrees outside and our basement walls are 47 and 53 at the frost line.

Asked By Becky Parrish | Feb 9 16
3 Answers

Appropriate treatment of shower/tub walls adjacent to dense-packed cellulose?

Climate zone 4C marine, planning for new construction.

Planned typical R-26 exterior wall section: fiber cement siding, 1X rainscreen furring, 3" 8pcf rock wool, taped sheathing (primary air control and WRB), 2X4 load-bearing wall with 3.5pcf cellulose, 1/2" gypsum board.

How should interior high-humidity areas like showers adjacent to this exterior wall section be handled?

Asked By Stuart Friedberg | Feb 9 16
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