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0 Answers

Can I use rigid foam inside and outside a concrete block wall.

I have a concrete block barn I am converting to a living space. I plan to use Insofast 2" EPS panels on the interior which with the block gives me R-12 (Block at 3 and foam at 9). I would like to get a better R value, by adding foam to the outside. Would this create a moisture trapping problem?

How would I fasten the furring strips through the foam and into the block. I was thinking Tapcon screws.

Asked By Philip Faucher | Jun 29 15
1 Answer

Would Insulation blown into an exterior wall eliminate bird infestation???

If there is room for the birds who have made golf ball size holes in our exterior wood siding and are raising a bunch of babies in there, could we eliminate the birds and get extra insulation at the same time. We think the birds are the invasive European Starlings, not nice birds.

Thank you for your help, Cathy

Asked By Catherine Rodner | Jun 29 15
8 Answers

Vapor barrier

Hi. I live in Houston and unfortunately bought a house that has some issues with water penetration in several areas due to brick parapets extending above the roofline that were never capped. The biggest area of water entry is in the master bath which we have completely gutted down to the studs - several of which have to be replaced due to rot and deterioration over many years.

Asked By Beth Puyau | Jun 23 15
4 Answers

Foam over a concrete floor

I plan 4 - 6 inches of EPS under the slab and now am considering an inch of either EPS or XPS on top with 5/8 or 3/4 tongue and groove plywood or OSB to provide a nicer floor to walk on as well as a warmer floor in the walk out basement. I think this will make it easier to attach partition walls and tile in the bathroom and hardwoods in the sunroom.
Question. .. Is this a good idea, and do I glue the foam (EPs or xps) to the concrete and the sheeting to the foam or leave it free floating?
Any gotchas in this?

Asked By tim brown | Jun 29 15
4 Answers

Is my 5000 BTU LG 10 year old window unit significantly inefficient ?

My wife says so, in comparison with similar modern window units. She wants it replaced. The unit runs on all work days, during summer work hours, in my home office in San Antonio, Texas. San Antonio summers are hot, but not as hot as north Texas, as an example comparison. My question is whether efficiency advances in 10 years have made a big difference for small window units.

I tried to search, but every search returned hundreds of irrelevant topics.

Asked By Weldon Cabaniss | Jun 28 15
32 Answers

Attic hot after closed cell spray

Finished attic with 4 foot knee wall , duct located in knee wall to support 2 floor,extremely hot, BASF spray tite 2 inches with spray foam wraped around rafter in knee wall but with Sheetrock on ceiling just 2 in foam In cavity . Suggestions to handle heat issue. Richmond Virginia all attic seal very well thinking heat coming from rafters under Sheetrock. Thermal convection coming from rafters. Worked done in the winter, crawl space also done, house built 1994 colonial 2 story with garage with room above with dormer. Also in crawl space does it really need supply vent and return vent

Asked By Mark hippchen | Jun 27 15
9 Answers

So where do I make budget cuts?

My project has hit a snag. Chiefly, the excavation and clearing of the lot is costing thousands more than I projected. Shame on me for not doing my homework better on how much it would cost to remove most of those dang trees. Okay..so flog me for that. I have to make some cuts in my project and that likely means cutting some of my energy efficiency upgrades. Here's kind of what I was planning on and then I'll list the cuts I'm thinking of making (and why).

Asked By Andrew Bennett | Jun 28 15
11 Answers

Is it advisable to use nail base insulation panels over a roof insulated with closed cell spray foam?

We are renovating an old railroad station, turning it into a residence and are gearing up to put new roofing on the building. Built in 1888, the building has massive overhangs on all sides and the rafters are mostly 2x6s with 4x6s spaced about 8' apart supported by large brackets. We had planned to use closed-cell spray foam insulation in order to get the maximum r-value in the relatively shallow rafter bays. Also, we want to maximize the available head room in the second floor rooms. The underside of the roof will also be the ceiling with t&g beadboard installed directly to the rafters.

Asked By Jodi Gunderson | May 29 15
2 Answers

California heating question

I have a 1910 craftsman home in the Bay Area where we might need cooling 4 or 5 days year and it typically does not get too cold. We are redoing the basement (seismic) and attic (new roof, beefed up framing) and will install a solar PV system. I will most likely go to a heat pump water heater and a new heating system (presently have floor furnaces). I am thinking about a mini split system or a ducted heat pump system with the ducts in the attic. What are the advantages and disadvantages to both? The house is 3 bedrooms and about 1800 square feet.

Asked By rob manheimer | Jun 29 15
4 Answers

An article for people who start from "I trust the contractor; he's a professional"

Hello,

Props to all the excellent, diligent, hardworking contractors out there. That said:

Where's the excellent introductory article on this or another site (which probably already exists) to which I can point an acquaintance, about the value of due diligence in insulation/airsealing plans & not assuming a contractor will do an awesome job because they think that's what inspection mandates?

Asked By Minneapolis Disaster, 6B | Jun 29 15
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