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4 Answers

We are currently working on two residential projects where we have specified exterior rigid insulation over a 2x6" wood framed wall. Both projects occur within Climate Zone 5 but they also have very different amounts of annual rainfall (260mm in the interior of British Columbia vs 1650mm closer to the coast). The wall assembly looks like the following in both cases with the minor difference of the insulation in the stud cavity.

Exterior Wall Assembly
- Cement Board or Cedar Cladding
- 1/2" Plywood Strapping - Rainscreen

Asked By Brett Sichello | Jul 31 14
2 Answers

Hey there,
I work with a company in San Francisco. We are trying to redesign the interior of our office space greenly and effectively.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks on doing this sort of thing?

We have no shortage of solar panels but are trying to figure out what to do with them to create a great office!

Asked By Adam Lawrence | Aug 1 14
2 Answers

I'm looking at two manufacturers of uPVC windows. They use different frame profiles that are nearly identical, the colored foils are from the same supplier, the spacers and glass are slightly different but overall the specs are nearly identical. The price quotes are very close but structured differently so it's difficult to compare apples to apples. The biggest difference is their approach for higher alltitude installations. One uses a pressure release tube that is pinched at the final destination and only the units requireing it are tempered SG.

Asked By Chuck Jensen | Aug 1 14
4 Answers

Hello all,

I am working with an HVAC contractor to design and install a multisplit system for our 1950s ranch renovation. As an FYI, we've done a substantial amount of upgrades to improve the tightness and insulation of the home although at 60 years old the house still isn't perfect. I'm now hoping to replace our aging ducted air handler with a new ductless system. Motivation to go ductless is driven by many factors that I won't get into in this post (both efficiency and a more practical issue of headroom in our finished basement).

Asked By Brian Gray | Jul 31 14
4 Answers

We are meeting a lot of resistance from local concrete contractors & structural engineers when we tell them that we want a capillary break between the footing and the foundation wall. Are there any documented cases of this capillary action being a source of moisture/ mold / finish material problems? Are there any scientific studies that compare the moisture levels in foundations walls with and without a capillary break? The capillary break makes sense to me intuitively, but nobody wants to pay for it or change their ways unless we can show them proof that it is necessary.

Asked By Eric Stear | Jul 31 14
1 Answer

Without getting into the other air intake possibilities...code requires that the outside air intake ducts be covered with no less than a 1/4" screen. My concern is that there are a lot of bugs, mold spores, etc. that are much smaller. There's no way to fit this with a filter?

More details:

Asked By Jim Johnston | Aug 1 14
1 Answer

Hello:

I have emailed the GBA contact twice and I have called several times to no avail. I will not leave a call back number, so they must pick up the dang phone when it rings. We used to do that in all the offices I ever worked in, but not anymore I know. However, they could at least answer my email. All I am trying to do is order a subscription. I tried using the website and it does not work for me.

Asked By Anne Nelson | Jul 31 14
37 Answers

Hello folks,

First, I'd just like to say how thankful I am for the invaluable resource that is GBA. I spend A LOT of time reading the blogs and Q&A and I find that pretty much any question I might have has been covered here already. Though sometimes my understanding gets a little vague regarding certain details so I am hoping for some input on a potential wall detail.

Asked By Noah Byler | Jul 23 14
16 Answers

I found that patents exist for products that would use the outgoing heat from a dryer to preheat the incoming air, but I haven't found any thing forsale. I'm not going to get away from using my dryer in the winter, but I'd like to do it as efficiently as possibly. Taking warm air from the laundry room, heating it, and then sending it outside, only to have make up air come from the cold outside seems horribly inefficient. My house is much too humid during the winter to use a dryer diverter and the smell is terrible, so that's not going to work.

Asked By Calum Wilde | Jul 30 14
2 Answers

I am a siding installer and I would like to know if I can get paid for my scrap siding.

Asked By Bradley Wheeler | Jul 31 14
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