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24 Answers

I had R60 blown into my 1000sqft attic where there was previously only about R11. Baffles were installed in almost every roof rafter. Air sealing of attic floor was performed. This is a low pitch asphalt shingled hip roof over the whole house.

Asked By Jeff Watson | Jul 12 14
2 Answers

This question might have an obvious answer, but I haven't been able to dig up anything on google. If I were to purchase a tear-down property that had an existing uninsulated, fieldstone basement, what would be the best course of action to build a high performance house? Fill it in with dirt then to then create a slab on grade? Tear out the fieldstone and use the existing cavity to create an insulated basement (while also hopefully re-using the fieldstone on site for something useful like a wall)?

Asked By Ethan Fahy | Jul 21 14
3 Answers

We had our basement encapsulated in the fall last year and made it through winter no issues. They used a thick mil high quality (apparently) vapor barrier and then sprayed /fogged with mold preventative. I don't think there is any more mold - smell is not musty really and I don't get a mold allergy reaction.

Asked By jeff weikert | Jul 22 14
19 Answers

I am not in construction or an architect, just someone who would like to live in/build a small, comfortable, energy efficient home. I don’t need and could never afford a Passive House. Don’t even know if one would work where I live. I live in the low desert southwest near Phoenix. Living is very different here than in cold weather areas. And very different than Florida or humid areas of Texas. Outside temps over 100F in shade 5-6 months; highs 115F; nighttime lows 95F for at least 2-3 months. Low humidity 10 months. Little or no drought resistant shade trees.

Asked By Anneal G | Jun 27 14
5 Answers

Hello, I really appreciate this website.

I understand that powered attic ventilators have a lot of problems. But my contractor is suggesting adding one to support a whole-house fan, due to the limited attic ventilation. (I do have some passive ventilation but not quite enough, and the gables are maxed out because it's a flat roof.)

So as long as I always run both fans at the same time, and as long as the cfm of the whole house fan exceeds the cfm of the attic fan, is there still going to be a problem?

Thanks!

Asked By Robert Shelton | Jul 25 14
23 Answers

Hello folks,

First, I'd just like to say how thankful I am for the invaluable resource that is GBA. I spend A LOT of time reading the blogs and Q&A and I find that pretty much any question I might have has been covered here already. Though sometimes my understanding gets a little vague regarding certain details so I am hoping for some input on a potential wall detail.

Asked By Noah Byler | Jul 23 14
6 Answers

(Examples of what I am referring to can be seen at: http://vastern.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Splayed-cladding-detail.jpg AND http://www.bartonqualitytimber.co.uk/images/categories/chestnut%20claddi... )

I am not terribly conceded about the cedar: if it is stained all 6 sides with two coats and placed on black painted strapping, then it should handle the elements reasonably well. My main concern is what the substrate behind it should be.

Asked By Burke Stoller | Jul 18 14
Answers

If you are sick and tired of your dark armpits getting you down and preventing you against wearing sleeveless tops since you are feeling nervous, don't despair nevertheless there is help available.
There are not the same factors that affect the look for dark armpits such as deodorant that you're using, constant shaving or perhaps the natural indisputable fact that all joint areas are generally darker than the other areas.

Asked By Lavada Cannan | Jul 26 14
4 Answers

This is probably only a hypothetical question as I doubt I could talk my wife into a composting toilet but…If we have a tight home with balanced ventilation, and if we had a composting toilet that has a small 5W fan continuously exhausting air - how would we provide make-up air?

Asked By Scott Tenney | Jul 24 14
3 Answers

Investigation revealed 3 problems: 1) no soffit vent; 2) insulation extending beyond the end of plastic rafter vents closing off the air channel up to the ridge vent; 3) no blocking above the wall to seal up the fiberglass. I've corrected the first two and caulked the ridge on the inside, but am unable to fix the blocking. The odor persists and I fear the fiberglass is contaminated with mold that the revived air flow won't be able to dissipate. Would pulling out the fiberglass (through the soffit to avoid major deconstruction) and filling the bays with foam work?

Asked By Michael Roland | Jul 25 14
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