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2 Answers

I am rehabbing a house located in zone 5, Pennsylvania. The room I am working is a kitchen with a cathedral ceiling. The room is completely gutted. The rafters are 2 x 10 on 24 o.c. The roof pitch is about 15 degrees.

In General questions | Asked By Anthony Jackson | Apr 21 14
1 Answer

I am doing a bid to fix a humidty problem in a fire station. This is in a small town in mid-Missouri. The building is a 2,840 square foot metal building with no ventilation. It is heated with radiant heat. It is 45,000 cubic ft.

In the wintertime the building is trapping all the excess moisture in the building and then it is condensing on the bay doors of the fire station and growing mold.

I am pretty certain that a good HRV will do the job but I'm not completely confident how to size it due to the fact the it is an extreme situation. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

In General questions | Asked By Mike Hansen | Apr 21 14
2 Answers

My husband and I are considering a home on a huge lot we love, but we found out it is a solar envelope home built in 1983. I've read mixed reviews on this type of home and we have some concerns. We'd appreciate any help!

1. If we wanted to ever convert it to a normal home, is that possible?

2. Have people really experienced health issues stemming from mold and modes growing in the walls and under the house from the moisture in the air? How common is that? Fires seem to be a concern too.

3. This home is in southwestern Illinois. Will it really make a big difference in our bills?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Erin Litteken | Mar 22 14
2 Answers

I am replacing a 30 year old plastic bubble skylight as part of a major remodel. The skylight is located a flat (low slope) roof in a typical Chicago small residential building and serves a third floor bathroom. The skylight will not be openable.

I have searched this site, the web, and the manufacturer's installation information, but am still unsure how to orient the skylight to maximize its benefits, while reducing drawbacks, like unwanted heat in Summer. It appears that the only requirement is that the skylight be installed at a slope greater than 15 degrees.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Dan Nehm | Apr 19 14
1 Answer

Hi

Does anyone have a recommendation for crawlspace exhaust fans?

Would an appropriately sized Panasonic be the simplest option?

In Mechanicals | Asked By Jill Neubauer Architects | Apr 21 14
1 Answer

Walkout basement in zone 4C (west coast) 2x6 framed exterior wall with r20 fiberglass batt insulation. To eliminate the 'step' (many houses have a finished shelf) of concrete foundation which comes up 2', client wants walls framed from floor to underside joist inside foundation to avoid the shelf, creating a space between the framed exterior wall and the new interior wall. Should the vapour barrier (6 mil plastic be relocated to inside of newly framed wall, and if so, should new wall be insulated? the full cavity be insulated? thanks, dan

In General questions | Asked By dan nugent | Apr 21 14
7 Answers

I am renovating my house, installing solar panels and getting rid of my gas forced hot air system and replacing with mini-splits (very small home < 1000 sq feet)
I would like to install an energy efficient heating system in the bathroom (about 6' x 8') as I'm not sure the heat will effectively get there, plus I like to have a separate zone for the bath for the usual reasons. i had thought about electric radiant heat in the floor but have heard that can be quite an energy drain.
Do people have a suggestion for a very small heating unit for this purpose?
Thanks!
Maggie

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By maggie wilbur | Apr 19 14
2 Answers

is there a ballpark rule of thumb that spans different regions for the mean monthly sunshine or possible percent sunshine that is conducive to a favourable result in PHPP?

In PassivHaus | Asked By erik olofsson | Apr 20 14
4 Answers

I have a recurring question / situation that comes up in my east central MN location (6b-7a border). There are many 1970's homes undergoing remodeling and looking to add insulation for improved comfort and energy effciency. Miost common construction is drywall, kraft faced R13, 2x4 walls, 3/4" Bildrite (asphalt fiberboard sheathing).

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Troy Tvedt | Apr 17 14
1 Answer

Are the ductless minis that utilize a cassette unit vs a wall unit, less efficient?
Are there any drawbacks to a cassette unit over a wall mounted unit?
Lastly, can a cassette unit be mounted on a wall or is that not a good idea?

In Mechanicals | Asked By Peter L | Apr 19 14
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