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9 Answers

Building an energy-efficient metal building

We are in the process of planning a metal pole barn used for manufacturing. We need to have metal panels on the inside (or similar) for wash down. We currently have a similar metal pole barn which is not energy efficient. What is a good way to make better use of the insulation / materials to make the building as energy efficient as possible? We also need to maintain a constant temperature of 55-65 degrees if possible.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Becky Parrish | May 30 16
31 Answers

Exterior rigid foam and re-siding project

I'm seeking input and opinion. I'm looking to re-side with the dread vinyl (need the low maintenance for my two story house). My 40 year old post and bean house has interior sheetrock, 3.5" of fiberglass batt insulation with kraft paper, rough cut full 2x4 studs on 24" centers, plywood sheathing (I think 5/8"), paper (a mix of Tyvek and felt), and cedar shingles. Shingles and paper will of course be removed, sheathing inspected in the process. I'm in zone 6.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Howard Gentler | May 2 16
5 Answers

Instananeous hot water with a tank

I'm looking for the manufacturer of an instantaneous hot water heater with a thirty gallon tank mounted above it. The manufacturer advertises it as a complete unit. Any info will be appreciated.
Scott

In Mechanicals | Asked By Scott Goodman | May 29 16
15 Answers

Should I be concerned with these wall and roof insulation details?

Hi,

I am a weatherization contractor located in coastal MA, climate zone 5. After reviewing countless articles here and from Joesph Lstiburek's website, I'm concerned that the plans I received for a new construction project are not optimal and may pose problems down the road for the homeowner. Specifically, I'm looking to see if my concerns are accurate or if the plans are acceptable. My questions/concerns are (images for walls and ceiling as attached):

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Corey Ricci-Munn | May 30 16
3 Answers

Metal roof and wall assembly in Los Angeles

Could you advise on my roof and wall assembly? I want to do better than code and local building conventions (leaky stucco houses) , but don't want to: (1) waste money since the climate is mild; (2) make inadvertent mistakes by diverting from what's tried and true here, and by indiscriminately applying lessons that are meant for more severe climate.

What's your opinion of the most cost effective spec for this climate?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Claire L. | May 23 16
3 Answers

Raft slab edge insulation detail

Hi - I'm building a home in Central Vermont (Zone 6) this summer and had a question regarding slab edge detailing.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Craig Bunten | May 29 16
36 Answers

Best exterior wall design within standard 2x8 dimensions

I have been reading several of the GBA posts and articles and I don’t seem to locate the answer to my question so I wanted to drop you a line by email.

I am located in Saskatchewan, Canada and currently have a house under construction that is well under way. That being said I won’t over complicate it with detail but the house is not a high efficiency design and I am not and don't pretend to be knowledgeable on a lot of points that are covered on GBA.

Hhowever, this is what i have

Construction detail:

Southeast corner of Saskatchewan, Canada 15 miles north of North Dakota

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By chad online:) | Feb 21 16
2 Answers

Insulating walk-out basement

I'm insulating a walk-out basement in a new construction. The house is of a double wall design, and will be filled with dense pack cellulose. I understand that for the foundation walls that I can not apply cellulose directly, however I had thought that if I apply a layer of closed-cell either sprayed or laid in in sheets then I should be able to fill the rest of the cavity with cellulose, assuming that there is no concrete exposed. My question is how many inches do I need to use to assure I have no problems with the cellulose?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Geoff Frood | May 29 16
3 Answers

Conditioned crawlspace, floor insulation

I think every drawing & article I've read showed no insulation on the floor of a conditioned crawlspace. So far, I haven't found any recent info on the heatloss into the ground or temperature of the ground below a conditioned crawlspace. There's something in my old ASHRAE fundamentals for a basement floor, but it seems too high. It would seem that if there more than a little heat loss it should be insulated?

In Green building techniques | Asked By brad h | May 29 16
34 Answers

Improvement on the Lstiburek Ideal Double Stud?

Hi all. Please see the attached PDF of a variation on Joe Lstiburek's Ideal Double Stud Wall design (http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/articles/dept/building-science/lstib...).

I am trying to go for something a bit quicker and less labour intensive to build, but that is still very vapour open to the exterior (and occasionally interior) to overcome the usual double stud wall shortcomings.

Please fire away with critiques. The main problems I see are:

In Green building techniques | Asked By Burke Stoller | May 6 16
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