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1 Answer

Hi folks, great site.

I have a crawlspace in a new house that smells of chemicals. The dirt floor is sealed with a vapor barrier and the walls have Spray Foam Insulation. The space is pretty airtight.

My ERV was installed incorrectly (another story) and sometimes the smell from the crawlspace comes up into the house. Makes my eyes burn, and it gives me a headache. Hopefully that will be fixed this week!

Should I be able to smell the foam 2 months after it has been installed?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Brett Michaels | Sep 1 14
1 Answer

So I read the innie vs. outie window article on GBA and decided to go with the innie route as I had already made my R/O to size and didn't have time to fir out the windows before my window installer (friend) showed up. So I have my windows in with flanges against sheathing and they stick out just over 2" from the sheathing. I am putting 2' rigid polyiso on the exterior and butting it into the windows. This means there is no foam showing. Do I need to put peel and stick flashing on the exposed foam before installing it? should I leave it away from the window slightly and spray foam that gap?

In Green building techniques | Asked By jordan Saunders | Sep 1 14
2 Answers

Most of the blower door tests that are mentioned on GBA give numbers under 3 or 2 or 1 ACH50. I'm guessing that none of these homes have a traditional fireplace. How much does a traditional fireplace with standard chimney damper contribute to air exchange numbers? What are some recommendations for improving a house with fireplace and chimney?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Derek Roff | Sep 1 14
16 Answers

This is something that as passed a few times in my background brain processes,

How does SHG on exterior cladding/glass influence heatloss ??

If glazings specs 50%VT , a part of the remaining 50% must be converted to heat?

If exterior cladding on a building is black, and sun is shinning on the south face,
it must affect the heatloss greatly for the shined on walls ??

As an example, let's assume a building up here cold north.
20c inside 0c outside.
Sun shines on a large flat south wall that was cladded with a black painted steel sheets finish.

In General questions | Asked By Jin Kazama | Aug 28 14
42 Answers

I had R60 blown into my 1000sqft attic where there was previously only about R11. Baffles were installed in almost every roof rafter. Air sealing of attic floor was performed. This is a low pitch asphalt shingled hip roof over the whole house.

In General questions | Asked By Jeff Watson | Jul 12 14
2 Answers

Has anyone ran across a design guide for passive solar thermal heating and cooling using water-antifreeze as mass in pex metal radiant roof and/or floor-wall lines? I’m thinking solar thermo-siphon vs a mechanical pump.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Terry Lee | Sep 1 14
7 Answers

Hello,

My home has return grilles on the wall about 3 ft down from the ceiling on 9 ft walls and about 4 ft down on 14 foot walls on the first floor. In the basement, they are on the wall about a foot up from the floor.

I am planning to install a ERV/HRV to combat elevated humidity in winter; I have had water condense along the ceiling edges and on windows during winter. The ERV/HRV will draw air from the return ducts and dump the fresh air into the basement.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Venkat Y | Aug 31 14
1 Answer

Lots of information on this website, FHB, BSC, etc about airtight drywall approach.

Maybe I'm overlooking it, but I'm not able to find much on the following topics...

1.) What gaskets or caulk work best?
Martin has suggested polyurethane caulk and several brands of gaskets or sill seal in previous posts. Anyone have a particular brand or type of caulk/gasket/seal that they like best? Any tried the "ripped pieces of closed cell sill seal foam" method?
2.) What kind of results people have had using these techniques?

In General questions | Asked By Robert Kohaus | Sep 1 14
1 Answer

We have a huge ventless gas log fireplace unit that has never been used, nor is planned to be used. We want to remove it, but do not know what is behind or underneath it, and if it will be costly to repair once removed. What is the proper way to remove this monstrosity?

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Pamela Davidson | Aug 31 14
1 Answer

Hello,

To combat elevated humidity levels in my home, I am planning to connect an HRV to draw air from the HVAC return duct and to then to dump fresh air into the basement. Due to the limited space in the mechanicals/HVAC room, I am planning to install the HRV in the garage, but I see HRV manufacturers want it installed in an operating environment that's at least 50F, so my unheated garage would not be a proper location.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Venkat Y | Aug 31 14
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