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1 Answer

Steel-sided, conventionally framed, closed-cell-foam-insulated home

I have been pondering building a low cost, high efficiency, low maintenance retirement home, and would like some input on my theoretical systems.

The structure would have conventionally framed, 2x6 walls, with no sheathing. In it's place, would be diagonally place structural supports(2" x 2") spaced at 24". In that 24" space would be 2" foam. The wall would than be strapped horizontally(2" x 2"), and spaced at 24" with foam in that space as well. The steel siding would then be installed, and attached to the horizontal strapping, and through to framing.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Maine Builder | Feb 11 16
16 Answers

Are holes in exterior plywood sheathing necessary?

We are building a new home on the west coast of BC. Our framer has placed large diameter holes in the exterior plywood sheathing saying this is necessary to meet code and allow the exterior to breathe. Our concern is that when other protective layers placed over the sheathing break down over time (plastic and tape and glue only last so long) we have a welcome entry point for water, rodents, carpenter ants ect. How does this practice fit into an 'airtight' home??
We are not builders but can't find anywhere noted that these holes are necessary. Thoughts, advice or comments appreciated.

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Frances Bucinel | Feb 10 16
2 Answers

Rigid foam on the roof

We are remodeling the exterior of our 115 year old farm house this year and felt it would be a great time to tighten the envelope and add rigid foam to the exterior. However, our contractor has some concerns about the extra weight of five inches of foam over the roof. Is this a valid concern? It's an old house. The frame of the roof consists of actual 2x4s placed 24 inches apart. We nailed 2x12s to the 2x4s eight years ago to provide a cavity to put blown in cellulose.

Thanks for the advice, Ryan

In Green building techniques | Asked By Ryan Knight | Feb 11 16
3 Answers

Insulating walls and ceiling for a barn workshop

Hi Folks,

I am in the process of building out my 1350 sq ft barn for use as a sculpture studio (i do mostly wood and metal fab). I use the space year round, and before insulation I can barely keep it in the low 40s with a 35k BTU pellet stove running 24/7.

The barn is sided with 1x12" eastern pine board and batten (all dims are actual not nominal) The roof and walls are 2x6 rough hemlock or eastern pine. Between the b&b siding and the studs is a very cracked/UV damaged poly barrier.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Benjamin Jones | Feb 11 16
9 Answers

If the IRC specs a 3.5" nail for framing, why do so many use just a 3.25" nail

For over 20 years I've been using a collated 16d (3.5") nail in my nailgun for framing walls. I'm in the market for a nail gun upgrade (changing brands) and found that many best nail guns only go to 3.25".

The IRC states that (2) 16d nails are needed to nail studs to the plates, why then a 3.25" nail and why do so many nail gun manufacturers not make a gun that shoots up to 3.5"

Can any of you expand on this?

In General questions | Asked By Brad Hardie | Feb 11 16
4 Answers

Effects of 2" to 3" PVC dry drain pipes through crawl space

Good evening. I have a 2,600 SF home that has 900 SF crawl space under half of it. The builder placed all the overflow type drains (next to water heater/washer, next to my mechanicals, etc, to run to daylight into my far yard. These don't have water traps because they run to daylight I suppose and rarely if ever have drain water in them.

My house does not use A/C and in winter we currently use a large indoor wood burning stove and supplement cold rooms with electric oil radiant heaters, as-needed.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Andy Nels | Feb 11 16
2 Answers

Replace 1x6 shear brace with OSB panel?

Hi Folks,

I am in the process of building out my 1350 sq ft barn for use as a sculpture studio (i do mostly wood and metal fab).

(see my other questions here)
Read more: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/community/forum/energy-efficiency-an...

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Benjamin Jones | Feb 11 16
3 Answers

Gasket material for Seiho vents?

I am installing Seiho vents on metal siding. Does anyone know of a good gasket material or similar product to keep water from making it behind the vent? My thought was to cinch the vents tight to the metal and sheathing with screws and include a gasket and bead of silicone around the edge.

In General questions | Asked By C. Maglio | Feb 11 16
7 Answers

GSHP and an endless pool

We have slowly been renovating our 115 year old, 2200 sq ft farm house over the past 12 years and live in northern Michigan (climate zone 6). This year we are replacing the 60 year old aluminum siding and roof and upgrading the walls to r30 and the roof to r60. We are also adding a 2425 gal endless pool/spa to the outdoor covered porch. I understand an outdoor pool in northern Michigan probably doesn't fall into the category of green building but it will definitely be fun!

In Mechanicals | Asked By Ryan Knight | Feb 9 16
4 Answers

Do I need to install rigid insulation in the bottom of a walk-in refrigerator before I install tile?

I am being hired to remove the failing metal floor and install quarry tile in the bottom of a commercial walk in refrigerator. The existing floor has 4" of insulation, then plywood and then metal floor on top of the wood. I believe the existing insulation is in very poor condition and possibly wet and I am planning to remove all of it. This is in a restauraunt in southeren California which is on the second floor of a commercial building where there is a structural slab as the foundation and there is occupied space on the first floor below.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Jim Jelinski | Feb 10 16
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