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4 Answers

Replacement boiler sizing based on past usage

I'm looking for some reassurance and validation before I pull the trigger on an expensive purchase.

I currently have a 40+ year old, 137,000 BTUh oil boiler that is getting long in the tooth due to substantial corrosion. I have done many efficiency upgrades to my home. I am very interested in replacing the boiler with an electric boiler as the boiler I have now short cycles since I have improved the efficiency of the home so much.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Efficiency Fan | Mar 23 17
4 Answers

Building a new house, looking for opinion on insulation/exterior foam combinations

I am currently in the process of designing a new home. I built one four years ago that we have decided is too big and inefficient for what we need. This time around I am looking to build small, simple and efficient. The house will most likely be framed with 2x6 walls, however I would like to maximize R value of that wall.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By user-6801629 | Mar 23 17
0 Answers

Therma-tru Door Configuration

I've seen recommendations for Therma-Tru doors with their Multi-Point Locking System as a reasonably priced energy-efficient 8' entry door.. For anyone who has gone this route, would you be willing to share how you configured your doors? They have a lot of options for sills, corner pads, weatherstripping, etc. I'm curious what other folks have purchased, and what seems to have worked well.

My house will be in zone 5 near Rochester, NY. My doors will be in-swing to keep snow from blocking the door.



In Green products and materials | Asked By John Ranson | Mar 24 17
9 Answers

Building a house in Greenville, SC — insulation and air sealing questions

Building a house later this year. Plan to live in the home 30+ years. So I'm interested in the "long term."

The House: 3,350sf above grade. Very very little shade on this house. Kinda like building in the middle of a field. Lots of sunshine bearing down. Galvalume metal roof with 3/4" strapping between metal and synthetic felt (TBD). Zip System for exterior walls. 2x6 exterior walls. I'm planning on ponying up for the super efficient Trane XV20i heat pump. Cement fiber siding painted white.

The Plan:
Foam attic with open cell to 5.5-6".

In Green building techniques | Asked By Farm House | Mar 15 17
4 Answers

Closed-cell spray foam — Basement insulation concerns

Hi everyone, any insight you can provide is much appreciated.

I am currently preparing to install spray foam (4in of 2lb closed cell) in my basement.
The plan is to insulate the full basement walls (concrete + pony wall section), plus the sill plate and rim joist pockets.

A couple of questions/concerns I had prior to going ahead with the install..

In General questions | Asked By user-6803198 | Mar 23 17
7 Answers

12v dc voltage system to run "micro sized" hydronic heating system

Hi Folks

My name is Bill and i would like to heat a small sleeping area in a mobile off the grid environment hydronically.

there are two ways i think may work but thought i would ask the more experienced group here to get some direction...

1st thought is to source a 12v controller that could run a 12v 4 way mix valve and also a very small 12v circulation pump to circulate water at a rate of less than .25 GPM

In General questions | Asked By freewillieklr | Mar 23 17
15 Answers

Ice dam woes

Gents, I am an Electrical Engineer by profession. Your site is awesome, thanks... it is a shame that the home design and building industry can't incorporate this stuff so that homes are done right the first time around. Sorry... preaching to the choir.

We purchased a 2 year old home that we had inspected prior to purchase. The inspector either was ignorant of the issues in the attic or didn't look at all.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By mg6467 | Mar 14 17
10 Answers

Sealing PEX and PVC pipe penetrations

I am reposting this to the Code section; not getting an answer in General Questions.

What do I use to meet code-required fire blocking and good weatherizing/air sealing for the circumferential individual tube/pipe and ganged tubes (a cluster of tubes), penetration gaps for PEX-to-wood (and plywood) and PEX-to-PVC pipe, and for PVC-to-wood, and PVC- & PEX-to-drywall?

With manifold distribution and multiple zoning of (1) HW heating supply and return (wall hung rads), and (2) potable water supply, there are a lot of penetration points.

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Oak Orchard | Feb 27 13
7 Answers

Tankless water heater AFTER my tank?

I have a Rheem Marathon and do not want to replace it. However, we occasionally run out of hot water when we have company. This is rare, but inconvenient. Here is my quandry:

In General questions | Asked By Emil Mackey | Mar 21 17
12 Answers

Metal siding — window head flashing detail

OK this keeps resurfacing so I thought I would see what others have come up with. When using metal siding (corrugated or sim.) dealing with the window head always seems to be a bit of a conundrum.Typically I see a piece of "J" flash utilized. But this usually points up, which may conceal the cut of the cladding panel, but consequently also catches water. Seems wrong. I have been trying to come up with an alternative and drew the attached, but surely someone more intelligent than I must have devised a better solution for this issue ?

In General questions | Asked By Erik Lobeck | Mar 21 17
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