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0 Answers

Attic Kneewall Insulation

I have a raised heel truss system. The contractor installed wall sheathing up to the bottom of the truss 2x4 as shown in attachments. My overhang is 2' so I will have ~2' of soffit. I will vent according to the sq. footage of my ridge vent (hip roof). I am wondering if it is best to leave these gaps alone, at 3.5" tall or if I should put scraps up and make them closer to 2" tall, or if I should block the ones that will not line up with the vented soffit locations completely.


In General questions | Asked By Nicholas C | Oct 3 15
1 Answer

Factors That Counter Individuals From Starting An Internet Business

Before any company are created and anything be made, there should be a notion. Entrepreneur ideas would be the bread and butter to perform anything in the industry world.

In PassivHaus | Asked By Maude Yoo | Oct 3 15
13 Answers

Ideal window rough opening gap for good air sealing

The manufacturer I'm ordering windows from allows a rough opening gap around the window of 3/8" to 1/2" from all 4 sides (so the rough opening would be 3/4" to 1" wider & taller than the window).

In General questions | Asked By Nick Hall | Sep 28 15
4 Answers

Odour from Certainteed fiberglass insulation

We just had some Certaineteed fiberglass insulation installed,in our house and have noticed a very strong odour from it. I thought it would dissipate relatively quickly but after 4 days , it is still quite noticeable. In fact, the odour was so strong that we had to go to a hotel because it made my wife sick.

As anyone ever had this experience with Certainteed fiberglass insulation before?
I have worked with other brands of insulation in the past and cannot ever recall that strong of an odour.

Does anyone have experience with Certainteed?
Is this normal for Certainteed?

In General questions | Asked By Aaron Gatzke | Oct 3 15
13 Answers

ceiling insulation

Have several questions.

1. I found a lot of rigid form( 2.5 inch ) in the ceiling which is laid over the cellulose insulation. I thought that the moisture will be kept under the foam. Do I need to take off all the rigid foam? or just leave it?

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Ben yoon | Sep 28 15
3 Answers

Insulation for radiant staple up

Hi, we are building a home in climate 5. The house will have geothermal with radiant heat in the basement slab and the first and second floors. We intend to finish the basement at a future date but not right away. Our contractor was planning to staple up the insulation with aluminum transfer plates and insulate with the foil bubble wrap stuff (thick foam under the basement slab.). I have read a lot about insulation for this type of application and it sounds like the foil bubble wrap stuff has little value.

In General questions | Asked By Mel Tillyard | Oct 2 15
8 Answers

Antique house #1: Cedar Roof

I will likely be taking on a crazy project in the next few months - buying an old house in Rhode Island, and improving it, on speculation.

The general scheme is to
--Do minimal work on the older (about 325 years) portion of the house,
--Expand/rebuild the newer (about 115 years) section with modern kitchen, baths, windows, etc.
-- Remove ugly garage, breezeway, and dormer.

In General questions | Asked By curtis betts | Sep 30 15
0 Answers

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In General questions | Asked By brandicecp jeaninebthUT | Oct 3 15
6 Answers

Insulating a flat roof in Chicago

I have had continued problems with my flat roof on our 10-year-old 3-unit building. This will be the 3rd time having to do major work.

The ceiling below has about 8 inches of blown in insulation with an 8 inch or so open space above. All of which is within the engineered floor joist that should allow for air flow.

On top of the joists is the main roof deck and on top of the deck is an additional deck that is sloped with the roof membrane on top. The wood is completely rotted out but the main deck appears OK.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Andrew Rothstein | Sep 16 15
13 Answers

Double Stud Wall sheathing and vapor barrier


I am building a 10" thick double stud wall that will be dense packed with blown in cellulose. I live in Virginia in climate zone 4 in a mixed-humid climate. I am worried about warm air getting into my wall cavities and possibly condensing on the cold sheathing during the winter months. I have been thinking about my different options and was hoping to get some advice on each option.

In Plans Review | Asked By Jimmy Nguyen | Sep 30 15
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