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8 Answers

Antique house #1: Cedar Roof

I will likely be taking on a crazy project in the next few months - buying an old house in Rhode Island, and improving it, on speculation.

The general scheme is to
--Do minimal work on the older (about 325 years) portion of the house,
--Expand/rebuild the newer (about 115 years) section with modern kitchen, baths, windows, etc.
-- Remove ugly garage, breezeway, and dormer.

In General questions | Asked By curtis betts | Sep 30 15
9 Answers

NON-Flanged (Insert) Window Replacement + Flashing

I changed out my rotten wood framed windows for all vinyl ones. The original wall was aluminum siding. I fixed the rotten sheathing, applied house wrap. Then strapped (furred) the wall with plywood. The pictures show how I flashed the rough window openings. I did NOT want flanged windows because I did not want to have to disturb the siding when the window needs to be replaced in the future (far into the futuer I hope). I see a lot of articles on how to flash flanged windows, but I never see methods for Insert (non-flanged) ones.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Alexander Sanita | Sep 28 15
0 Answers

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In General questions | Asked By brandicecp jeaninebthUT | Oct 3 15
6 Answers

Insulating a flat roof in Chicago

I have had continued problems with my flat roof on our 10-year-old 3-unit building. This will be the 3rd time having to do major work.

The ceiling below has about 8 inches of blown in insulation with an 8 inch or so open space above. All of which is within the engineered floor joist that should allow for air flow.

On top of the joists is the main roof deck and on top of the deck is an additional deck that is sloped with the roof membrane on top. The wood is completely rotted out but the main deck appears OK.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Andrew Rothstein | Sep 16 15
13 Answers

Double Stud Wall sheathing and vapor barrier


I am building a 10" thick double stud wall that will be dense packed with blown in cellulose. I live in Virginia in climate zone 4 in a mixed-humid climate. I am worried about warm air getting into my wall cavities and possibly condensing on the cold sheathing during the winter months. I have been thinking about my different options and was hoping to get some advice on each option.

In Plans Review | Asked By Jimmy Nguyen | Sep 30 15
2 Answers

Can I use Durarock for exterior sheathing behind a stone Face?

I am building a garage with 2X4's spaced 16" on two layers of block in zone 5, only a stones through from zone 6 in upstate NY. Most of the walls will be sheathed with 7/16" OSB covered with tyvec, a coraplast rain screen, and sided with various LP smartside products. The inside of the stud bay's for now will not have insulation, yet I plan on using either fiberglass batts, or blown cellulose and sheet rock in the future to finish of the inside. Also at some point I plan on using a small wood stove to heat it periodically to thaw out cars and other things.

In General questions | Asked By Dillon Vautrin | Oct 2 15
1 Answer

Are there any pre-designed house plans that feature ICF walls & SIP roofs?

Looking to see if there are any plans out there that feature ICF walls and SIP roofs? Or is this something that has to custom designed by an architect?

In PassivHaus | Asked By Peter L | Sep 29 15
0 Answers

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In Green building techniques | Asked By Riley Dorn | Oct 2 15
12 Answers

Bleaching mold on sheathing?

I'm building our house in Wisconsin, where we had a very wet June with 10 inches of rain while framing. The interior side of our 1/2" plywood sheathing has dried but has developed spots of mold. I'm considering misting it with a bleach mixture and letting dry well before insulating, rocking etc. The finished wall system will dry to the exterior, with 3" of Roxul Comfortboard IS on the exterior and Roxul comfort batts in stud cavities.

Any opinions on whether this is necessary? If yes, how strong should my bleach solution be?

In General questions | Asked By Edward Krause | Oct 4 14
33 Answers

Why is there condensation on the return ducts and mold in the attic as well 60% humidity throughout the home?

This home has since been remodeled, including all new metal duct work and insulation. The issue that we need to resolve is the high humidity in the house at about 60-65% even though the unit is running efficiently. There is quite a bit of condensation on the return ducts in the attic as well. We have had two reputable Heating and Cooling Contractors come to assess the situation to no avail. The owner attempted to contact the original Mechanical contractor, but has not been able to speak to anyone yet.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Jimmy Miller | Sep 1 15
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