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6 Answers

I am playing around with possible scenarios for my HVAC setup in the house I am planning to build. One possibility I am really looking into is that of not using any ducts. I'm not certain why I am so opposed to having ducts, but I think it has to do with the idea of blowing dust around, having drafts, and general complications - even if the ducts are straightforward, it seems like equipment connected to ducts tends to be complicated.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Stephen Youngquist | Jun 30 14
18 Answers

I will be having my attic sealed and insulated with closed-cell spray foam. However, the design of my house makes this a bit more complicated because my roof cuts into the second-story ceilings at the front and rear edges of the house (will make more sense if you look at the attached pic).

Above this part of the ceiling, there is only some very old batt insulation (less than R-8) and the roof deck. The house doesn't have eaves/soffits, so there is no venting in this area.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Matt Culik | Aug 14 14
4 Answers

I am in the final phase of completing my first PERSIST remodel.
We have installed (2) layers of reclaimed 2" polyiso on the walls (over TYVEK drainwrap) of a 1940's ranch and then strapped with 1x4's using headlock screws. Existing walls were in decent shape in terms of flatness and corners were within an 1/4" of plumb over 10'. So the walls were not perfect but they were pretty good, not bad enough to catch the eye.

In General questions | Asked By Charles Chiampou | Aug 24 14
2 Answers

All,
We just purchased a small, single-level ranch with electric baseboard & wood stove for heat. The hot water is currently a propane 50 gallon tank in the laundry room, which is about 10'x5'. With the dryer going, the worst-case depressurization fails and potentially back-drafts the atmospheric draft hot water heater. The current water heater cannot stay, and there is no where else to locate it. The crawl has no inefficient source of household heat, and is only 4' tall, less the joists.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Bob Rueter | Aug 25 14
5 Answers

Good Morning All,

I am building a new structure (northern end of zone 3) and will be using the 100-year wall approach with a low slope metal clad roof (yes white colored). 2 x 4 construction on the exterior walls (yes, I know about OVE) with Zip cladding, then 2 - 1" xps lapped sheets on the exterior and most likely rockwool in the cavities.

Piece of cake? Except!!! the ceiling over the garage (which sits under the 2 stories above). The garage will most likely be CMU with no insulation (cold space).

In GBA Pro help | Asked By leo kloop | Aug 25 14
26 Answers

I'm building a new house, and would love to hear feedback on the insulation plan. It can be found here: http://lazukars.bitbucket.org/house.png

DESIGN GOALS:

- Have a consistent insulation pattern up from the basement and up through the roof. In this case XPS on the exterior and ccSPF on the interior.
- Eliminate thermal bridges wherever possible.
- Double the insulation required by code

CONCERNS WITH THIS DESIGN:

- Foam Sandwich: The current sandwich of XPS on OSB on ccSPF will create OSB rot. The OSB will not be able to dry to the interior.

In Plans Review | Asked By Ryan Lazuka | Aug 18 14
20 Answers

All this talk about ductless minisplits is making me dizzy. If a forced air furnace gives a bad atmosphere in a building, doesn't a minisplit per room just give many bad atmospheres?

Dana reminded me on another post that a forced air furnace increases infiltration/exfiltration. Well, why doesn't a minisplit heater or cooler do the same?

In General questions | Asked By flitch plate | Aug 19 14
2 Answers

Getting ready to build my own home. Looking at a wall assembly of 2" exterior EPS, plywood, 2x6 exterior wall with r22 fibreglass batts, 6 mil poly vapour barrier, 2x4 interior with r14 fiber glass batts and 1/2" drywall. I maintain r30 to the exterior side of the vapour barrier and r14 on the interior side so the 2/3 - 1/3 rule is maintained. I will not have to be concerned with electrical box and plumbing penetrations through the vapour except for items venting or take air from exterior.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Sheldon Lee | Aug 24 14
4 Answers

Hi All, I've been reading through the forums for the last month or so as I'm preparing to reinsulate my cathedral ceiling in my master bedroom and home office. I've found tons of great information so far and just had a few questions on my current plan to see if I'm on the right track.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Edward Dziarcak | Aug 22 14
17 Answers

Hi,
I need some advice...preferably before I cut a bunch of holes in the walls or ceiling and find out that this was a pointless venture.

So the details:

900sq foot one level, mostly open plan, highly insulated and sealed home.
Heating climate...like really... a lot. -40 C is not unheard of for stretches of time. More typical is -20 C

The house is powered completely with PV.

Heat is supplied by radiant slab, a bit of passive solar. I am also putting in a small wood stove in the next few days.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By keith ahlstrom | Aug 21 14
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