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2 Answers

This will be located in SW Colorado climate zone 6B (ICC zone 5B). Long axis due east-west with a 45 deg bend on the west 1/3. Attached is a pdf of a typical cross section of the proposed design. I will have some specific questions forethcoming but this is partly a test to see how the pdf looks posted.

In Plans Review | Asked By Chuck Jensen | Apr 12 14
1 Answer

I have an 8 year old structural-insulated-panel house. It is tight, has good siting, big roof overhangs and performs well with passive heating and concrete floor hydronics. It has no air conditioning. In my climate we can get a week of 110 to 115 degree highs and 70 degree lows when the small whole house fan makes it difficult to sleep due to noise.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Joel Levine | Apr 14 14
1 Answer

I have a cabin that has a 1/2 inch layer of Homasote as the ceiling in the main living area. We just added heat and air conditioning and I wanted to blow in Insulation (cellulose) in the 5 1/2 inches above the homasote. Will this cause excessive moisture to accumulate and will the Homasote bulge from the extra weight and humidity. I found a product at Lowes that is 3 1/2 fiberglass insulation covered in plastic on both sides that I might be able to get down there. Would this be a better idea? The cabin has a metal roof with no eave vents or ridge vents. Thanks

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Rob Beaumont | Apr 14 14
13 Answers

Hi! I've been following a variety of discussions about ventend/unvented assemblies in cathedral ceilings, in low slope roofs, in different climates, on FHB, JLC for close to two years. I’ve read Martin, I’ve read Lstiburek, I’ve talked to the architects (hopeless) and structural engineers. I thought I had this nailed down, and now the builder (who also happens to be a SE - long story), comes at me with a new idea.

So I’m finally going to “vent” my worries and seek some advice specific to our situation.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Michelle Paninopoulos | Apr 7 14
6 Answers

This rambling old farmhouse in rural Maine has an attached 3-bay garage that connects to the kitchen. The garage has a two-bedroom, seasonal or guest apartment overhead, so it is a large structure, with 2X4 studs.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Roger Woodbury | Apr 12 14
1 Answer

Does anyone know of any links to energy efficient duplex house plans? Preferably something compatible with passive house or similar low-energy paradigm... thanks in advance!
p.s. Martin posted a link to a similar question of mine but they were all SFD plans..

In General questions | Asked By erik olofsson | Apr 14 14
6 Answers

Is anything like Uni-Solar Powerbond still made?

It seems like a much much more aesthetic form of PV than conventional panels, especially if it were sized correctly to cover the whole south-facing side of a roof. The ideal would be a solar shingle solution that actually looked like shingles or slates, but this doesn't seem to exist.

I know Uni-Solar filed for bankruptcy so I assume this product isn't being made any more? Is that the case? If so, where did it all go wrong?

In Green products and materials | Asked By F W | Apr 10 14
5 Answers

I have seen a few discussions about insulating cathedral ceilings but none that relate to the method that I had in mind for my 24' cathedral here in Vermont.
* Penetrating water sealer on all surfaces that have the potential to rot.
* One inch strapping to create an air gap for ventilation.
* Multiple overlapping layers of ridged foam(open or closed cell?)
* All seams taped because expansion and contraction will break a DIY spray foam seal.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Gary Spurling | Apr 11 14
1 Answer

Has anyone seen a review of this new HRV?

http://www.foursevenfive.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=70_7...

Although it is rather expensive, installation is dead easy and mechanically it is exactly what I've been waiting for for 35 years.

Consider this... when the occupants are active in the main living area, exterior doors probably get opened and closed a few times every evening bringing in significant fresh air. (This is an impossible calculation, but could be verified through measurement)

In Mechanicals | Asked By Kevin Dickson, MSME | Apr 11 14
3 Answers

Hi;
Saw this site form Dan Houlihan of HeatingHelp.
I have a 1917 home in Detroit, Mich that I am renovating. It has a American Thatch" or "Smurf" cedar shingle roof with an open stringer deck underneath. These must be vented on the underside to allow the shingles to dry. Currently there is no insulation. The floor that the roof encloses is livable space, but I will demo all of the plaster walls for insulation access. I have 8" rafters

In General questions | Asked By Mark Reynolds | Apr 10 14
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