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4 Answers

I'm installing an HRV in my new house to improve air quality and mitigate outgassing of pressed wood cabinets, carpet, etc. (Climate zone 5a, so mixed humid conditions; hot summers, chilly winters but not too cold)

Initially, I was going to install a simple exhaust-only system with Panasonic bath fans, but then I came across a study that suggested that exhaust-only systems aren't as helpful for indoor air quality as an ERV (or an HRV):

Ventilation System Effectiveness and Tested Indoor Air Quality Impacts
Building America Report - 1309, March 2013
Armin Rudd and Daniel Bergey

In General questions | Asked By Patrick Cantwell | Jul 17 14
3 Answers

I am about to start building a 3000 sqft, 1 1/2 story home in zone 3A W/H (central Alabama).
The house will have a standing seam metal roof and a drilled pier foundation with open crawl space. Air handlers and ductwork will be above the first floor ceiling, on the back side of the second floor knee wall.

My current construction/insulation plans are:
- Roof: Metal roof / Ice & water shield membrane/ 7/16 OSB/ Closed cell SPF sprayed 5" thick between 2 x 6 rafters

In General questions | Asked By Thierry Swinson | Jul 18 14
2 Answers

Hello GBA,

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Brian Gray | Jul 18 14
41 Answers

Hi all,
Can editors step out from behind the curtain to ask opinions, too? I'm planning to redo my garage shop this Fall and although my primary heat for the space is a woodstove, I'd love to have some supplemental heating, and cooling in the summer would be great, too. I'm no schlep when it comes to remodeling work, but have never installed or seen a mini split install. Would I be a fool to try the install myself or have the kits gotten streamlined to the point that its basically plug and play, complete with factory-charged units and quick connect line sets, etc?

In Mechanicals | Asked By Justin Fink | Aug 22 13
Answers

(Examples of what I am referring to can be seen at: http://vastern.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Splayed-cladding-detail.jpg AND http://www.bartonqualitytimber.co.uk/images/categories/chestnut%20claddi... )

I am not terribly conceded about the cedar: if it is stained all 6 sides with two coats and placed on black painted strapping, then it should handle the elements reasonably well. My main concern is what the substrate behind it should be.

In General questions | Asked By Burke Stoller | Jul 18 14
8 Answers

Hello, I'm in the USA and currently constructing a two story addition. I have 14 windows and 2 doors already installed and I'm looking for the best way to air seal them on the interior. What interior air sealing tapes are available that would be used to air seal the rough opening gap on the windows? I've done a lot of searching and can't seem to find many options. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By SCOTT KOONS | Jul 16 14
11 Answers

New construction, Panama City, Fl, 5,000-square-foot container (18) home facing south on piers. Will have 8' x 40' porch on west and east sides connecting to 8' x 80' porch on south side. Think U shape.

Due to high thermal conductivity of the metal, I was wondering if I could use a Trombe wall in reverse, pulling air from under home and venting it out at top of wall exteriorly. My thought is to remove convected heat transfer between the container walls so less insulation would be needed.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Les Amoss | Jul 16 14
6 Answers

Hi. I haven't been here for a while because I thought I had found the solution to my crawlspace problem but alas I haven't. I had been dehumidifying the crawlspace at our beach house with a high capacity Santa Fe dehumidifier which unfortunately got destroyed when the crawlspace was flooded during Superstorm Sandy. Rather that buy a new one, I had a vapor barrier installed, replaced the open vents with insulated smart vents and had the underfloor of the house covered in 2-3" of closed cell spray foam.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Cherylann Schieber | Jul 17 14
23 Answers

I had R60 blown into my 1000sqft attic where there was previously only about R11. Baffles were installed in almost every roof rafter. Air sealing of attic floor was performed. This is a low pitch asphalt shingled hip roof over the whole house.

In General questions | Asked By Jeff Watson | Jul 12 14
12 Answers

I own a 1929 brick veneer home and have been steadily improving the airtightness and insulation levels. The time has come to consider the exterior walls, which are (from inside to outside) plaster over celotex, 2x4 framing (hybrid balloon framing), ship lap sheathing, tar paper, 3/4" air gap, then brick. The house is 2 stories, and has approximately 2' overhangs.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Joshua van Tol | May 20 14
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