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8 Answers

What wall set-up would you go with?

New 1 storey home build, North East of Toronto,ON, Zone 6.

Currently the plan was 4" exterior EPS foil covered with 2 x 6 stud wall filled with Roxul R22 or maybe 24.
Then I saw used paper faced Polyiso in 3" thickness from roof replacements, so I'm looking into this and trying to see if I can get enough to do 2 layers on the exterior sheathing .
So questions is what wall do you think would be a better setup?

4"EPS + 2 x 6 with R22 Roxul = R40 +/- added expensive of new EPS and 2 x 6 studs

In General questions | Asked By Dave B | May 17 17
18 Answers

Window Flashing - Housewrap over ZIP

We will be installing Housewrap over our ZIP system sheathing.

The Housewrap will act as the WRB. Windows already installed and flashed with ZIP tape.

How can we best flash the windows and doors with the addition of the housewrap, since the windows are already installed?

Also, are there moisture issues associated with using two layers of WRB against each other?

In General questions | Asked By Bridget Lamberson | May 15 17
4 Answers

Cheap cedar alternative for shed clapboard cladding, in Europe?

I'm planning to build a large multifunctional shed. More like a multifunctional yard building, 7x7m. Part will be masonry (3x3m) with wood clapboard cladding, the rest I had planned as a just a storage area, with cladding on the outside, OSB on the inside, on wood construction.

I want to use wood clapboard siding (with rainscreen). Resources I find from USA websites mostly use cedar for this purpose.

What would be an acceptable local alternative here in Europe, with regards to durability and resistance to elements, but cheap?

In General questions | Asked By davor radman | May 12 17
3 Answers

Tongue-and-groove boards for a cathedral ceiling

I'm planning to build a house in central PA which will have cathedral ceilings for all of the rooflines and large dormers. Because of the dormers, I've ruled out a vented ceiling and am thinking I need to go with closed cell spray or flash and batt. For cost reasons I'm leaning towards the flash and batt option with R-21 closed cell spray and R-19 unfaced batts for cost reasons. We are also considering doing T&G wood in some of the areas...so my question is do I need to put drywall under the T&G wood?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By PAJon | May 18 17
13 Answers

Zone 4 Build--Bottom to Top

Hello all

I am building a new home in the mountains of western NC, Zone 4. Four seasons there, lots of rain. We will be building on a 31% grade with one main level and one lower level(for some reason they hate to call them basements there!). If you don't mind, I would like to start at the bottom with my proposed build and work my way up. I wanted to get this all figured out before I go to the architect and builder.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Kevin Spellman | May 15 17
1 Answer

Air transfer through soffits

Hi Martin....I am building in zone 5 and have chosen to spray the roof deck with closed foam backed with open cel. There will be no air coming in through the soffits since the foam fills the roof joist cavity above the plate on the outside walls. My question is regarding the roof joist tails beyond the exterior walls. My intention was to close those soffits with cedar without any venting considering there will be no way for air to get out if I allowed it to get in. Is this an acceptable practice?

In General questions | Asked By Consor Development ternes | May 18 17
2 Answers

I provided my Visa card info to start a one month membership but can't log in!

New member. Having trouble logging in. Please email solution: aamchan@aol.com. thanks

In General questions | Asked By user-6848597 | May 18 17
9 Answers

Wall and roof construction ideas

We're hoping to build a house this summer. It's the first time we've done a ground-up build, though we've remodeled and lived in a couple century-old homes. I'm looking forward to building a tight, efficient house, and to no longer heating with coal. I'd like to run my proposed assemblies, along with a few questions, by the experts here.

We're building in Northeast PA, Climate Zone 5. I'm including an image of the house we're planning to build. House is about 2700 sq. ft., and if we can button it up tight enough, I'd like to heat/cool with minisplit units.


In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Foeller32 | May 11 17
8 Answers

Exterior wall insulation

Im looking for opinions on which method would be best for my area (4). Since I don't want to build 12" double exterior walls, I'm planning to use 2X6 with packed cellulose and either 2" of styrofoam exterior sheeting or zip sheeting with rock wool exterior insulation over that. Also I think I want to use rigid foam vents furring the rafters down and packing cellulose to an acceptable r factor for a conditioned attic.

In General questions | Asked By Ralph Foll | May 16 17
2 Answers

Uninsulated cottage floor cupping

Clients cottage located in rural Nova Scotia. Built on posts. Floor not insulated. Building not heated when not occupied (most of the time) We installed solid birch flooring, and sanded and clear coated as a finished surface.

Client had asked about the need for vapour barrier between subfloor and flooring. Based on my research at the time, it seemed like this was not necessary.

Now, however, the floor is showing signs of cupping. :(

In General questions | Asked By Nick Rudnicki | May 18 17
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