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3 Answers

Dense pack cellulose rig rental in Philadelphia area

I've decided to make a DIY attempt at installing dense-pack cellulose to a fairly small section of the thermal envelope in my home (which happens to live under a floor, well above grade). I'm looking for the highest-power cellulose blower I can rent, preferably an Intec Force 2 or better, plus a kit for reducing tube diameter to the appropriate level and providing whatever stiffness/bendiness is needed for the circumstance. Anybody know where I can rent such equipment in the Philadelphia area, preferably less than 1 hour drive?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Andrew Levitt | Nov 19 14
0 Answers

Stranded Bamboo Flooring, Is it a good choice?

We are building a home in Alabama on the coast. We have a crawlspace sealed foundation that is dehumified. We are looking at purchasing 5/8 - 1/2 Stranded, Carbonized, bamboo flooring. We are getting mixed reviews on whether this is a good choice. We've heard the following:

Pro - it's solid engineered so it can be sanded and refinished. The color is the same all the way through. Compared to engeered wood which can only be sanded and refinished once.

Pro - Harder than most woods, and compares to engineered wood in that it's harder to scratch.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Mary Smart | Nov 20 14
19 Answers

Is 1" enough?

We are constructing a home in far western SD (Climate Zone 6b)....There is a lot of bedrock here so we have opted to build a post frame (pole barn) style structure. From the outside in, our wall 'sandwich' will be
1-pole barn style tin wall covering
3- 1" Tongue and Groove XPS foam
4-Half inch OSB attached to the girts
5- 7" of cellulose filling the curtain walls
6- OSB on the shop walls and Drywall in the house.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By daryl stisser | Nov 16 14
6 Answers

I air-sealed my attic too well!

Not really, of course. But here's my story:

I moved into a 1350sf ranch home (3/4 basement and 1/4 crawl) in Columbus, OH last year and have been working to air-seal and insulate it. I ran a blower door test before I began just to be nerdy and track my progress. Initial leakage was 3075cfm @ 50 Pa, about 9.7 ach50. I started work in the attic, sealing up everything I could find before blowing in cellulose over my skimpy loose fiberglass.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Ben Wilson | Nov 20 14
6 Answers

Suggestions for insulating a large garage workshop

Hi everyone. I just purchased a property in western Massachusetts zone five a. I am planning to renovate the existing 24 x 60 barn for use as a year-round workshop. The building is slab on grade with 2 x 6 framed walls 24 inches on center, sided with rough pine board and batten nailed to the studs and bracing. Currently, there is a bit of air exchange between the interior and exterior due to some of the battens pulling away from the nailers.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Benjamin Jones | Jul 18 14
3 Answers

Best way to insulate an old attic?

I am the owner of a 100-year-old two-story house in the 5A climate zone. The house has a full-height attic space, which is currently uninsulated. The attic has actual floor boards in place over the joists, which could be removed, but would be a lot of work. Right now we just use the space as storage, and don't plan to convert it to living space. During the winter i run into huge icicle and ice dam issues. My question is, would it be beneficial to me to insulate the parts of the roof that are accessible(id say 70% is not covered)?

In General questions | Asked By Brian Grimsley | Nov 19 14
1 Answer

Rigid foam over WRB

I am finishing up a full kitchen remodel that pretty much required me to rebuild 25' of exterior wall in my 1600 s.f. 1950s ranch located in Portland, Oregon (zone 4 marine). It is a 2x4 wall with R-15 fiberglass, existing 1x8 shiplap board sheathing (less some areas with wood damage, yes we do have termites in the NW), window and door rough openings flashed to a Tyvek primary WRB and air barrier. I would like to add 1-1/2" of rigid foam with taped seams and a 1/2" rainscreen before replacing my cladding.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By David Fraser | Nov 19 14
3 Answers

Retrofit an existing exterior wall to 1-hour rating

I have a small garage conversion project that is within the side and rear yard setbacks and requires one-hour rated walls, eaves for approval. Any thoughts and solutions that balance compliance and a small budget (i.e. demo and rebuild, exterior versus interior modification). USG wall assemblies suggest 1/2" Ply and then exterior wall board (but the garage is now sided with lap siding).

Thank you

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Robert Saladoff | Nov 19 14
3 Answers

Locating flue hole without removing wall paneling

I am trying to install a wood stove in a room that has paneling on the walls. The chimney flue has been covered by the paneling. I'd rather not remove the paneling because it was glued to the wall when installed. I have tried several ways to do this but was not successful. I dropped a measuring tape down the chimney, took a measurement but was way too low for the flue when I laid the measurement out. Check the room next to this room and found the chimney and a sealed flue on the opposite side of the chimney. Thought about knocking out the plaster or concrete seal, still an option though.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Louie Bruno | Nov 19 14
6 Answers

Mixed-humid insulation recommendations

I've read a great deal about building science and energy-efficient building practices. This site is a great resource. I think I understand the theory, but I have a few questions that are perhaps best answered by experience.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Jeffrey S | Nov 16 14
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