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2 Answers

Damp spray cellulose in Los Angeles

Does anyone have a recommendation for a damp spray cellulose installer in the Los Angeles area?

Also, out of curiousity what is the going rate in your neck of the woods for damp spray cellulose (2x6 wall)?

Thanks in advance

In Green products and materials | Asked By Jack G. | Nov 4 12
10 Answers

Comments on wall design, please

Attached is an image of a wall system I've conceptualized. It combines ease of interior electrical, plumbing, and wall finishing work with the structural benefits of CMU construction, the air tightness and performance benefits of a REMOTE wall, and the maintenance benefits of EIFS.

Looking for feedback. Any pitfalls with this approach? Overkill?

Thanks.

In General questions | Asked By Matt Culik | Aug 31 15
15 Answers

XPS or PVC under base plate

I'm looking to start framing in our basement. The house is 15 years old, and did have some water leakage (some small puddles could form during big rains... We had crack injections done this fall to alleviate the issue), but no flooding yet (knock on wood).

I thought I read somewhere that you could use XPS insulation to put under the base plate of the wall. It seems like a good idea (a 1" insurance policy should the basement begin to flood).

In Green building techniques | Asked By Andrew Wayland | Feb 22 15
7 Answers

Is there a way to move forward without removing the exterior 1" XPS rigid foam, Tyvek, and windows?

Last February I started the project of adding an entire second story to our 1946 1,550 sq. ft. ranch home in Southern Wisconsin. It is on the border of WI and IL. It could be considered in the northern part of climate zone 5A or southern part of zone 6A.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Steven Bessel | Aug 30 15
11 Answers

Is a capillary break between the footing and foundation wall really necessary?

We are meeting a lot of resistance from local concrete contractors & structural engineers when we tell them that we want a capillary break between the footing and the foundation wall. Are there any documented cases of this capillary action being a source of moisture/ mold / finish material problems? Are there any scientific studies that compare the moisture levels in foundations walls with and without a capillary break? The capillary break makes sense to me intuitively, but nobody wants to pay for it or change their ways unless we can show them proof that it is necessary.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Eric Stear | Jul 31 14
7 Answers

Insulating basement walls of old home in a cold climate

I live in a 1911 home in Duluth, Minnesota (Climate Zone 7A). I have started to insulate my basement walls to R-15 using 3 inches of XPS foam board. Because of the age of the home, our cold climate, and the presence of clay soils, the building inspector recommend that I remove the bottom two feet of insulation in the basement so that the walls are exposed near the basement floor to keep the concrete warm during the winter.

In General questions | Asked By Brad Leick | Aug 31 15
8 Answers

Attic Ductwork

I live in Nashville, TN climate area 4A

My issue is my attic gets so hot in the summer months and my heat pump runs a lot but does not cool very well. This is a duplex home with each side having around 980 sq foot living space.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Janice West | Jul 11 15
11 Answers

Best strategy for waterproofing and insulating a half block/half brick basement?

I live in a 1920's home in Central Ohio (Climate Zone 5A). The basement has an exposed French drain (ie, the weeping holes, trench, gravel and tile are there, but have not been covered with concrete) with sump pump. The basement is 2/3rds below ground, with the walls made up of half cement block (bottom portion) and half brick and mortar (top portion). The brick and mortar is partially above ground and is covered on the exterior with a stone and mortar veneer.

In Plans Review | Asked By Matt Bierlein | Jul 13 15
1 Answer

Spray foaming around windows

When you spray foam (interior) around a window, is it best to try and not fill the area were the nailing flange hits the WRB? Wouldn't this be true because if the window ever did leak the water would have some place to go? An example is a youtube video I saw were they fully spay foam the four corners with Pur Black - but if water gets in were will it go - it will sit on top of the pur balck - unable to escape.

So it seems to me that I should only spray foam only about half way into the rough opening - thus leaving an escape path for any water intrusion if that were to occur.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Randy Mason | Sep 1 15
6 Answers

REMOTE walls using Roxul products

I've been on here previously to gauge everyone's thoughts on the building plan for our new house, and I was curious about the opinions out there on what we are currently thinking. We're building in northern Oakland county Michigan climate zone 5. The house is a 2357 sq ft ranch with a walkout basement. We've considered just about everything, but here's where our heads are at the moment:

1) I think we like the idea of doing superior walls for the backfilled foundation walls, with the exposed walls being wood framed (for ease of attaching cladding and framing windows and doors).

In Green building techniques | Asked By Brian W | Aug 30 15
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