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9 Answers

Hot water heating

Need some advice on my domestic hot water plan...
very long and narrow ranch house... well water. good pressure..

Master side of the house has Master bath. (with soaker tub), 3 other full baths and a half bath.... all fairly close to each other...

kithcen side is very far away.. (75-100 feet away) ... has a full bath , half bath, and kitchen sink...and a washing machine.

On Master side i am planning on a large heat pump water heater( i have a good utility room for it) attached to a manifold with 1/2 lines to showers, 3/8 lines to sinks and toilet.

In General questions | Asked By Dean Sandbo | Apr 13 16
1 Answer

Green Building Advisor Q&A

Thank you to those involved with the elimination of all of those asian-alphabet, unreadable, virus-like comments that had taken over this site this past week. I enjoy checking out the question section of this site when time allows, and when I saw those "comments" I moved on to other things. THANK YOU !!!

In General questions | Asked By KEVIN ZORSKI | Apr 29 16
2 Answers

Using below grade SIP for full basement

We are planning our single level lake home in northern Minnesota. 1200 sq. ft. walkout. 11000 HDD Zone 7.

I'm fully aware of the traditional basement options; block, poured, and ICF their plusses and minuses having worked in the masonry field when I was younger.

Question: Has anyone had any experience using SIP's for below grade?

Thanks!

Steve

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Steve Lenertz | Apr 12 16
6 Answers

Any vented attic air sealing tricks? And recommended R-values? Blown fiberglass?

I am building a home in climate zone C4 and am getting ready for insulation at last. I have wrapped the house with a layer of 1" xps already, but am getting ready for the rest. The local insulation contractor is pushing blown fiberglass over blown cellulose, what do you guys think about this, I have heard it settles less. Most of the house has cantilevered scissor trusses. Do you guys have any good practices for air sealing around all of the electrical lighting boxes (not cans) that I have installed in the ceiling?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Kail Zuschlag | Apr 28 16
5 Answers

Roof structure, insulation and lighting

I am planning a new home in northern Idaho climate zone 6 and have some questions regarding the roofing structure/insulation and lighting within this system. this will be a mostly cathedral ceiling with a flat part across the middle in which I intend to put the lighting and ceiling fans. The thought is to keep these items out of the insulated roof. It will be a non vented roof. I have attached two drawings to help illustrate my thoughts. I would like to build the roof as follows from top to bottom:
1. Dutch Seam metal roofing
2. 2x4 furring strips

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Kyle Rice | Apr 28 16
25 Answers

Transoms and Ductless Minisplits

Hello,

I am trying to heat and cool my second floor with one 12,000 btu ductless minisplit. I have heard that this is possible if I keep the bedroom doors open during the day to facilitate circulation of the hot or cool air.

However, does it get uncomfortable quickly in the night when the doors are closed. If so, I was thinking of putting in operable transoms over the doors. The only problem is they are kind of expensive (~$275 from transomsdirect.com). Attached is my floor plan. I will be putting ceiling fans in each bedroom so maybe the transoms would be overkill?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Jimmy Nguyen | Mar 10 16
2 Answers

Finishing a damp basement

I have a client that lives in an early 1900's home here in Minneapolis. Her current foundation is stone not block and is quite rough on both sides. She wants to finish the inside of the basement and add framed walls and drywall. She gets a minor amount of dampness on the wall and it is virtually impossible to waterproof this wall since it is such a rough stone. She does not get standing water but just dampness on the wall a times.

In General questions | Asked By Chris McGuire | Apr 29 16
12 Answers

Insulating cathedral ceiling

I have a late 1970's contemporary home that has non-ventilated cathedral ceilings that do not connect to a ridge vent - they do have sofit vents but don't see how that helps. From the middle of the house there is a 2nd floor where I can get to the point where these roofs join and can see there is little to no insulation. I believe I can remove what is there with extension poles.
My question: What are my insulation options. I assume some type of insulation that can be sprayed (foam or wet ?)

Any suggestions appreciated.

Thanks,
Dan

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Dan Colucci | Apr 21 16
8 Answers

Latex paint on fieldstone foundation

Hi,

In General questions | Asked By Lucas Bender | Apr 29 16
4 Answers

Ducted or ductless?

Hey guys,

Still working on my house specs for my 2800 sqft house just outside of DFW. I really want to have my ducts inside the conditioned space but this seems really difficult unless you foam the underside of the roof. So, I've seen these ductless units and wondering if it's practical and maybe less costly. The big challenge, I think, would be the house is single story, spread-out and lots of rooms. Thoughts? I tried to attach the pdf floor plan but it failed. If you want to see the plan I can email, etc.

Thanks,
Shawn

In Mechanicals | Asked By Shawn Tucker | Apr 28 16
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