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4 Answers

Mitsubishi Heating Correction confusion

I am in the process of estimating the size of Mitsubishi FH series minisplits needed for a modular home in order to receive quotes from HVAC companies based on specific equipment requests and not their WAG assumptions. Will shortly be receiving a room by room Manual J heat loss calc.. The house will be located in zip code 12833 and so I am keenly interested in the minisplits ability to provide primary heating in an Upstate NY winter climate.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Doug Livingston | Jul 6 16
15 Answers

Who should fix this one?

My wife sent me a text today, as I am out of town, showing our garage door completely smashed in. We had a concrete contractor at the house today and at least two loads of rock brought in. The concrete guy said it was like that when he arrived, just after the first rock truck. The rock trucking company also has not claimed responsibility. Any thoughts on how I should resolve this? The rock was ordered by the concrete guy and not me for clarification.

In Project management | Asked By Mike M | May 21 16
4 Answers

T1-11 — overlay or replacement?

My 1979 T1-11 plywood sheathing has suffered what Martin has called similar to not drying faster than rate of being wetted. My intention is to overlay rather than replace simply because, if we can reduce the inrush of moisture and increase the drying potential, the labor of removing (organic) mass is not warranted. This is a (2) two story DOE #3 moist home. So--Here is my question-- Is there a concrete type (Hardie like) panel that lines up with the T1-11 reverse board and batten pattern, because I don't want to overlay /replace the upper panels that are appearing good?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Charles Thompson | Jul 11 16
6 Answers

Vapor barrier for a steel building used as a residence?

We're going to build an engineered steel building (44x70x12') for a residence. It will have four main steel supports on the long end, each a bit more than 1' deep. Purlins will sit inside the webbing, and are 8".

I wanted to put rigid foam on the exterior of the purlins, between the purlins and the exterior steel paneling. Unfortunately, the building company wouldn't validate that design.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Steve M | Jul 10 16
7 Answers

Insulating a roof

Last year we moved into a log home in Tennessee (zone 4A) and have now been through one winter and a summer here. The home has a timber framed loft, which has proven to be difficult to cool in the summer and heat in the winter. The ceiling of the loft is 1" tongue & groove poplar, which also serves as the roof deck, on top of the poplar is ½" of blue board, then metal roofing. Using a DOE R-value calculator I get an R-value of about 2 - not good.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Steve Black | Jul 9 16
6 Answers

Will 4 mil plastic keep out VOCs?

Hello! I had my builder friend come over to my house (which is semi-detached) to see if there was a way to keep out my neighbor's VOC's from leaking into my house. He said I should caulk around the baseboards and since most VOC's seemed to be coming from the kitchen, he said to put up a plastic construction barrier with a zipper over the open entrance way from the kitchen into the rest of the house. Then if that worked, we would know the problem is definitely coming from the kitchen and could plan on addressing that.

In Green building techniques | Asked By BRENDA Koehlert | Jul 10 16
6 Answers

Insulation detail

I have been progressing on my remodel. I need to button up the wall in the coming days. I had reached out to my local inspector who did not give me a ton of clarity. Wall profile is the following:
zone 6A with 2x4 framing, aluminium siding and 1x6 ship lap for sheathing. The WRB appears to be a shinny like paper. Following questions

I am versed on the detail to insulate the 2nd floor rim joist area, visible in the attached picture. However, I wanted to use 2 layers of 2" XPS for an R-20 foamed in place. Any concern going this thick with the XPS

In General questions | Asked By M S | Jul 7 16
2 Answers

Constructing window bucks

I'm getting ready to cut the pieces for some window bucks. I've read this article: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/node/42336 but it doesn't specify how to attach the 3/4" plywood pieces to one another - I'm going to use a waterproof glue, but should I use screws or a 2" 18 gauge brad nail?

My walls are going to be 4" of XPS, and I will be making an 8" wide window flange for the flanged window units to attach to.

In Green building techniques | Asked By John P. | Jul 10 16
1 Answer

I-beams supporting basement wall: rigid foam in front or behind?

I have read maybe 4 dozen articles and blogs from terrylove, gba, bsc, finehomebuilding, and others. Here's where I'm at. Single story home constructed in the early 60's on a poured concrete basement without rebar reinforcement. Hydrostatic pressure had caused buckling. I excavated the entire perimeter, jacked the house, pushed the walls strait, and installed a new exterior footing drain to daylight. The exterior basement wall was pressure washed & waterproofed with a paint-on sealer, then wrapped with a peel and stick membrane (hydroseal3000).

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Keith Carmichael | Jul 10 16
5 Answers

Cooling a garage

My garage is about 800 sq ft with 12 ft ceiling. I have my workshop in the garage. I want to make it more comfortable on hot days. The POA will not allow an exhaust fan in the wall.
Looking for suggestions.
AC not an option.
I was thinking exhaust fan in the ceiling with an attic fan (same cfm as exhaust fan) to prevent positive pressure in attic.

In General questions | Asked By Bob Mackey | Jul 10 16
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