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6 Answers

I recently entered a home purchase in SE Michigan and now find myself with a cathedral roof problem. There are cathedral ceilings throughout the upper level of the 2 story home; built in 1979. The main floor living room area is open all the way cathedral roof, and also to the basement with an open stairwell (serious stack effect going on). There is evidence of condensation on the walls coming from the cathedral wood panel ceiling which is attached to the underside of the rafters.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Brian S | Oct 13 11
6 Answers

I'm planning on residing my 1970's house soon.
- I currently have T-1-11 nailed on the studs (both sheathing and siding) with 15# felt under it.
- I will do lap siding & shingles over battens to create a rain screen over the T-1-11.
- Location is western Oregon (temperate & wet)

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Thomas Farwell | Sep 26 11
15 Answers

For an upcoming article on insulation choices, I'm looking for up-to-date information on insulation costs.

I'd be very grateful if GBA readers could share information on costs. If you are a GC, have you received more than one bid for a recent insulation job? Please share your numbers.

The most useful information would include R-value information and square feet. But even if you don't know the number of square feet, it would be useful to know that the bid for fiberglass batts was $4,000, while the bid for spray foam was $9,000. Or whatever.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Martin Holladay | Oct 13 11
8 Answers

I am in the planning stage for building a cottage. An existing cottage will be torn down and a new one built to replace it. The basement will be made using ICF (currently no basement or reliable foundation on existing cottage). The decision that I need to make is whether to continue with the ICF for the upper two floors to the roof or to build the upper two floors with traditional wood framing.

In General questions | Asked By Kelly Zytaruk | Oct 13 11
1 Answer

I'm looking to buy 3" polyiso from a local seller that is reclaimed from commercial roof tearoffs. Two Questions: 1. The seller says they have a hard covering on one or both sides. I've used foil faced polyiso, but am not familiar with the hard covering that (I'm assuming) is used in commercial roofing. Any problems using this as outsulation on a house? My thought is it can't be any less vapor permeable than foil faced, so it should work the same from that standpoint. How about difficulty of installation with the hard covering?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Bill Costain | Oct 14 11
8 Answers

In general, where have you found the best price on XPS and Polyiso? Lumber yard? Big box stores? Other? We are in the design stage of a new custom home project and I want to analyze price/performance as we are creating the plans. In the past I have relied on my stucco sub to provide it in his bid, but we will install on this project. Thanks for your input!

In General questions | Asked By Bill Costain | Oct 11 11
4 Answers

I plan to insulate my now uninsulated poured concrete basement walls. I think I have a pretty good idea of how it should be done using XPS on walls and floors, wood framing inside the foam and with further insulation between the studs,, with a code compliant fire "retardant' cover like drywall. I base my plans on research here, at Fine Home building, and at Building Science Corp.

In General questions | Asked By Andrew Alden | Oct 13 11
5 Answers

I have a 54 year old Cape style home in Nerw England. Plaster ceilings run along the base of the roof rafters (2x6 rafters). No soffits - have Hicks vent drip edge & Full ridge vent. Need to re-roof, want to add insulation, build out vented soffit system,- by adding rafter tails, extend the rakes out, Ice & water 6 feet from edge & valleys then re-roof.

In General questions | Asked By John Shea | Oct 10 11
3 Answers

I am in the process of buying a 1,400-square-foot home in Zone 4 (mixed humid climate). The existing wall section is: brick veneer, 1" air gap, tar paper, plywood sheathing and 2x4 walls.

Most of the deep energy retrofits I have researched include installing exterior rigid insulation, which is probably out of the question for me given that I would either have to tear the brick down or bury it under the insulation and new cladding. So I am considering creating a double-stud wall on the interior at a total depth of 10", then filling with dense pack cellulose and airtight drywall.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Charles Chiampou | Oct 12 11
5 Answers

I live in a home in NJ (4A/5A climate zone border) with a 3rd floor wooden deck over a a slightly pitched flat roof with conditioned living space below it. This deck was built about 7 or 8 years ago, and is supported by 4x4 posts which are going through the roof and on top of the rafters on the second floor. The ceiling on the second floor is leaking now, and I'm pretty sure the deck isn't too safe.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Armando Domingos | Oct 3 11
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