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8 Answers

Overdoing south-facing glazing

My current plan includes roughly 148 sqft of south-facing glazing on a 1400 sqft house. We have some nice views, and some small interior spaces that I want to open up with large windows. The house is in zone 6 at ~45* N latitude.

I have relied on the annual analysis calculator at www.susdesign.com to determine that I want a 3' eave overhang 1' above my 5' tall windows. However, there is a 10' wide glass door that will receive too much sun.

In Plans Review | Asked By Jim Tyler | Nov 4 15
12 Answers

Dry unfinished basement subflooring: What is best method to avoid moisture problems?

Putting in a workout room. Floor is currently poured concrete and level.

What is the best way to mitigate possible moisture issues in the future? Some say 6mm plastic sheeting then underlayment then the click floating floor. To me this sounds like moisture will be trapped under the plastic and against the concrete into perpetuity. DriCORE has plywood on top of 1/4" waffled plastic problem w this is the plywood is susceptible to mold and rot.

What is the best approach. Want to use engineered hardwood or bamboo.

Thank you

In General questions | Asked By Pat Tucci | Oct 31 13
11 Answers

In thickened edge insulated slab, I am looking for info

In most application's, you see the insulation follow the slope of the thickened edge to where the nominal slab is placed. Would there be a problem with insulating/slab seal on the flat then add the rock to build up the slope to where the slab will be?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Marty Munroe | Mar 24 16
6 Answers

Insulation suggestion for an Airstream

I have a 1953 Flying Cloud Airstream that will need some serious restoration. I will be completely removing the inner skins and fully expect to find that the insulation in the Airstream is pink stuff riddled with mouse homes (and poop). I'd really like to insulate it well so as to keep the heat out on sunny days, and the cold out on cold nights, as best I can.

In General questions | Asked By Thea Tapson | Mar 20 16
7 Answers

Vented attic or conditioned attic?

I am building a new home in Arizona , in summer gets to about 115 and winter it can still sometimes get down to freezing , is it better to have insulation on top of ceiling or underside of roof , my thinking is that if I have a vented attic with a radiant barrier to the rafters this provides a large " air " thermal break and has the insulation directly above the ceiling for the winter as well , I have places ( false beams , feature ceilings etc ) where I can run my ducting so that it is still within the conditioned space , is it worth doing

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By David Lowe | Mar 24 16
14 Answers

Is the foamboard caulked to the WRB/sheathing at the bottom?

I've just spent several hours reading articles and watching videos here on GBA, Fine Homebuilding, YouTube, and elsewhere, trying to learn the best way to install foamboard and flash innie windows when I'm using asphalt paper, but some of what I’ve seen seems incomplete or confusing, prompting this query. I’m sorry if I missed the answers to these questions.

(1) When installing foamboard over OSB/ply, is the inside face of the foamboard on the bottom caulked to the WRB?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Michael Bluejay | Mar 22 16
12 Answers

Reuse historic double hung-windows with exterior foam?

We've a house in Cambridge, MA which will need total renovation (close to needing demolition!)
The house will need re-siding and windows will need refurbishment (original 6 over 1 double hung)

We want to apply exterior foam (4" of foam, 2" of XPS and 2" of Polyiso) before re-siding and the plan was for 'outie' windows (using dudley boxes)

Q. Is it possible to remove and reinstall the original double hung windows or is this unrealistic given their age (1879)? They seem in reasonable condition.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Edward Cambridge | Mar 24 16
8 Answers

Basement insulation...pull the XPS?

Long story short, between work and family obligations I've been busting my tail to get my basement walls insulated and studded in preparation for finishing it off. Had an inspector come through only to hear that he considers the 2" xps I installed behind the stud walls to be a prohibited vapor barrier. Mind you I took extra caution to put in nice tight seams, tape the seams with that special red foam tape, and caulk around the perimeters AND I put up and secured the stud walls in front of the xps.

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Will Golden | Mar 24 16
3 Answers

Has anyone used Imetco Intelliscreen, especially on a residential retrofit?

Hi all,

I'm looking for a retrofit solution to a poor siding choice on a residential addition. The addition was made some 30 years ago and used 3/8" masonite type product as sheathing and siding (it's not T-111). It was then coated with a faux stucco paint. The seams were not covered (ie not board and batten style). Honestly, it is remarkable how well it has stood the test of time.

I'm investigating options either replacing (or more likely simply covering) the 'sheathing'. For engineering reasons (penthouse style), matching the remainder of the home's stucco is undesirable.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Keith H | Mar 25 16
2 Answers

Rigid foam over exterior stucco?

I would like add insulation to the walls of an addition to our mostly brick house in Climate Zone 4a. As best as I can tell, the walls in the later addition to the house have stucco on the exterior, I have no idea about insulation between studs and water barriers in others layers. Because of built in bookcases on the inside of the walls it would be hard to add insulation in the interior, so I was thinking of adding exterior insulation with rigid foam, but I am concerned about a moisture trap if I were to add that straight as an extra layer over the existing stucco on the outside.

In General questions | Asked By matthias paustian | Mar 25 16
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