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28 Answers

I find it interesting and a little frustruting that in all the discussion on stack effect I have not been able to find one article discussing the contribution of leaky ducts located in attics to stack effect. I have a home owner who reported excessive dust in her home. She lives in a 22 year old two story home in central California built before the requirement for sealed ducts. I noticed she had about 12 can lights in the ceiling of the upstairs rooms which were not air tight and with the other typical air leaks inthe upper portion of the shell of her home I suspected some duct leaks.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Gary Richardson | Feb 28 12
1 Answer

Normally the ducting for dryer vents is aluminum or galvanized steel as are many other types of vents like range hoods.

Is the thermal bridging caused by the use of these materials enough to worry about ? IF yes, then what can be used instead of aluminum or galvanized steel ?

Thanks

roy

In Green products and materials | Asked By Roy Goodwin | Mar 6 12
6 Answers

We are looking to stain our new concrete (interior) slab. We have all ready added a pigment to it, so we don't want to cover it with something opaque. I love the look of the acid stains. I have a dozen or so 12X12" blocks from the same pour of concrete to experiment with colors.

We had a friend apply a few colors of Soy based stain and it came out very opaque, basically covering the pigment we added to the concrete. On their web page they say the soy stain in semi-transparent, while the acid stains say they are translucent.

In Green products and materials | Asked By diane minutilli | Feb 15 12
10 Answers

I am attaching my proposed double stud wall detail I came up with. Let me know if anyone has any suggestions to improve it, or areas that are overkill/not needed.

The other option is running the ICF to the trusses. I like the benefits of full ICF, however from an energy standpoint (zone 6) I do not think they will hit the goals I am after. At an $8k add, I think it would be a step in the wrong direction.

In Plans Review | Asked By Jesse Lizer | Dec 13 11
6 Answers

I have a 3 story cape code house that has the air handlers for the air conditioning system installed in the 3 foor knee wall unconditioned space. This set up has caused me a lot of problems with insulation and leaks over the years and I understand the many problems with this set up. The sysem is almost 25 years old and is nearing its life expectancy. The HVAC contractor told us that air handlers have not changed much in design or size since we installed this system and had no other suggestions for moving the system.. My questions are the following:

In Mechanicals | Asked By Tim Ward | Mar 5 12
3 Answers

I am working on an exterior wall detail for a guest bedroom and guest bathroom in an addition on our house that will double as storm rooms. The FEMA plans for a storm room show a double layer of 3/4" plywood fastened to wood studs.

Right now I'm thinking of 2x6 studs at 16" on center. From the interior to exterior:

GWB (mold proof);
2x6 studs with unfaced fiberglass insulation;
3/4" Advantek (subflooring) screwed to studs and lapped onto floor and ceiling band joists;
1-1/2" extruded polystyrene;

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Bill Daugherty | Mar 5 12
3 Answers

I am going to break ground on a 24'x32' detached workshop in a month or two. I liked Martin's article on "Getting Insulation Out of Your Walls and Ceilings" enough that I am going to give the PERSIST technique a try with this workshop. Here is my wall detail.

In Plans Review | Asked By Clement B. Edgar III | Mar 4 12
2 Answers

We are rebuilding a dormer on a historical house in New Orleans. There are slates going up the side of the dormer to the roof.

Typically, there is a trim board [1"x 8"] from the front of the dormer returning to the roof.One carpenter says the return trim should go over the slates. I maintain that the slates should butt up to the return trim. Who's right?

In General questions | Asked By roger steinbrink | Mar 5 12
4 Answers

I'm in the process of finishing a basement rumpus room for the kids and would like to put 1/4” rubber flooring over the basement concrete floor.
- is there moisture test I need to perform before covering the concrete and potential limitations on floor coverings?
- Are there flooring products/procedures that work best in the basement?
During home construction, a curtain drain was installed up slope, burrito footing drain tile installed properly, and gutter downspouts tight lined away from the house. currently, there are no signs of excess moisture in the basement and no dank smell.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Frank O | Feb 16 12
30 Answers

I just head a long conversation with the Tech Advisors at Huber, the maker of the Zip Panel Systems. They’ve come out with a the Zip System R Sheathing which incorporates the Zip panel with 1/2” (R3.6) or 1” (R6.6) Polyiso installed between the OSB and the stud in one application (see pic#1); available only in TX and PA, but it’ll be soon everywhere else later. It’s a great application and solution for thermal bridging with less labor costs; however, it does come with some issues that must be address by the designer, builder and framer.

In General questions | Asked By Armando Cobo | Aug 24 11
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