Q&A: A Forum for Green Building Experts and Beginners

I plan to insulate my now uninsulated poured concrete basement walls. I think I have a pretty good idea of how it should be done using XPS on walls and floors, wood framing inside the foam and with further insulation between the studs,, with a code compliant fire "retardant' cover like drywall. I base my plans on research here, at Fine Home building, and at Building Science Corp.

I am in the process of buying a 1,400-square-foot home in Zone 4 (mixed humid climate). The existing wall section is: brick veneer, 1" air gap, tar paper, plywood sheathing and 2x4 walls.

Most of the deep energy retrofits I have researched include installing exterior rigid insulation, which is probably out of the question for me given that I would either have to tear the brick down or bury it under the insulation and new cladding. So I am considering creating a double-stud wall on the interior at a total depth of 10", then filling with dense pack cellulose and airtight drywall.

If the goal of PEX manifold systems is to save energy and wasted water on the hot side do you really need a manifold for the cold line? I appreciate the organization and straightforwardness of the manifold system. But if it doesn't have energy saving potential on the cold side wouldn't it be more beneficial, in terms of materials costs, to run trunk and branch on the cold side and manifold on the hot? Are there any issues with this?

Hi, I live in Saskatoon, Canada. Our climate is considered humid continental - warm summers and very cold winters. I need some advice quickly if possible as to whether it is okay to pour concrete up to the level of our foundation to grade water away from our house. Our neighbor is away while their newly built house is being landscaped. I came home today to find that their contractor had done prep work to put a concrete pad between the two houses to carry rain water out to the front of our properties and to the street. This is something we had discussed but not finalized.