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0 Answers

Are there any energy retrofit details/drawings for Hydronic-[pipes with fluid in ground] Earth-Tubes to internal heat-exchangers (hx) ?

Earth Coupled Loop (gle) alone to a heat-exchanger/and a blower, etc, or "radiant" using an interior tubing in-floor, etc...?
- for clean Earth-Tube (geothermal piping) to pre-cool or pre-heat a space ??
Or even to a radiant layout just to keep a slab area above freezing (in a barn for an RV, etc.?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By JP Jon Pierce | Jul 3 12
10 Answers

Carpeting over a cold slab: vapor / xps / double plywood

Background: the house was built in 1938 with slab poured between pre-existing foundation walls in 1954, and topped with vinyl asbestos tile. The slab does seem to stay dry all year, but nearby crawl space dirt is always a bit dark and moist. The slab is at grade. Quake contractors reported wetness at the bottom of each drill hole in the foundation nearby. Termites have been active through the slab. Radon is not a problem.

Climate: San Francisco Bay Area fog zone. It is a heating climate with chilly days possible all year, and only a few hot days ever.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Bryce Nesbitt | Jun 9 12
10 Answers

Tell Me If My Building Strategy For NE Texas Is Sound

I've been studying the different building and advanced framing articles and opinions here and where ever I can for some time now. We want to build an old style raised foundation (pier & beam) 1.5 story farmhouse style home in NE Texas, near Tyler. This is considered climate zone 3A Warm & Humid. Here is my plan which is keyed on being both cost efficient and building a relatively air tight and efficient home.

1. Raised foundation approximately 42 inches, vented crawlspace. 6mil vapor barrier ground.
2. 3 inches of open cell foam, R11.7, under 1st floor joists for insulation

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Robert Williams | Jun 28 12
1 Answer

Any GBA regulars builders in SoCal?

Can't remember who (if anyone) here builds in LA. If anyone here does and wants to give me contact info for outside the forum, that'd be great. I have a few questions, and details for that area are a lot less familiar to me than here (Minnesota). Thanks.

In General questions | Asked By Minneapolis Disaster, 6B | Jun 30 12
8 Answers

Double-stud wall insulation methods

We are building a new house in Wisconsin, zone 6, and are planning on using double wall construction, originally with dense-pack cellulose. None of the local insulators that we have talked to will install the cellulose.

I am still searching for another insulator, but in the meanwhile I have been considering a flash and batt method with 3 to 4 inches of spray polyurethane closed cell foam on the exterior side of the wall and either batt insulation or blown-in fiberglass making up the remaining cavity.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Christine Brotz | Jun 29 12
6 Answers

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In General questions | Asked By Pectaccouro Pectaccouro | Jun 30 12
5 Answers

Should we insulate the attic floor or roof where attic contains AC system only?

We have an uninhabited attic space (roof slope too low) that has a high velocity AC system air handler and distribution in attic space with blown in insulation between attic floor joists. Heating is a conventional hot water system with boiler in the basement. The attic is vented with both soffit and ridge vents; attic temperatures currently max out around 125 degrees where we live in southeast Michigan.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Douglas Forman | May 29 12
3 Answers

How do I rough-in a ceiling service cavity before inspection and insulation?

My addition that I am building has 9 foot ceilings, but I want 8 foot ceilings in the bathroom and I want to keep the two bath ventilation fans and the can lights inside the building envelope. So, I decided to create a soffit that essentially covers the entire ceiling (or a service cavity, I'm not sure what it would be called). The OSB attached to the bottom of the ceiling joists and around the top of the walls will be caulked and taped to create an air tight seal.

In Plans Review | Asked By Robert Sanders Jr | Jul 1 12
0 Answers

I am addind an addition to my home with 42" deep foundation that is tieing in to an existing 72" foundation.

What do I need to concider in regaurds to Concrete and Drainage tie-ins.

In General questions | Asked By Tom Ader | Jul 1 12
3 Answers


If I want to install a wood stove through the wall or the roof and both have 6" of foam board on the exterior, are there additional precautions to prevent exhaust heat duct from melting or causing a fire around the insulation? For example, install one or more layers of cement board over the 6" of foam. Then install through the wall or roof duct work.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By HORST SCHMIDT | Jun 30 12
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