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3 Answers

I'm building a new super insulated very tight home in upstate NY. I have 6" of rigid insulation under the slab and 9" of insulation inside the basement wall. We're building on a steep hill. The basement has a floor drain that will drain to daylight. My concern is unwanted ventilation through the floor drain if the water trap evaporates. Are there other options I should be considering?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Larry | Jul 21 10
24 Answers

New double wall house, western Massachusetts - climate zone 5.

I am ordering Marvin Ultimate Clad windows; a combination of casement, double hung and sliders. The south side of the house are specified as double glazed and glass doors are not available triple glazed. This leaves 7 out of 23 openings double versus triple glazed.

Is it worth the extra $4,800 (12% of total window and exterior door costs) for triple glazed on the balance of windows?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Jon Wyman | Jul 12 10
4 Answers

I am building a home which will have a porch and a back deck. I am at the point where I need to make a decision on decking boards. I thought about using composite decking, but I have heard some brands literally fall apart after a few years. I really don't want to use treated decking due to the maintenance. I also thought about cedar, but am not crazy about beautiful giant old trees being cut down for a place to walk on. Any suggestions?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Chris | Jul 21 10
3 Answers

Our house is 2 years old. We have never had problems before, but in the last 2 months our cabinets under the cooktop and down draft have collected ALOT of moisture and mildew. It is so much, I now have to leave the doors open all the time. My contractor does not know why. Does anybody have any help or suggestions. We spent a ton on our cabinents and I dont want them rotting away! THANKS so much!

In General questions | Asked By Stacy Yeomans | Jul 21 10
30 Answers

I am in the process of a planning a new house. Approximately 2,000 - 2,500 square feet. ICF construction with sealed attic (spray foam under roof deck). I expect the house to be tight and want to make sure I provide for proper ventilation. I've read about the various options and I am now trying to determine what would be the best bang for the buck in my climate. The house will be built in the Lubbock Texas area (360 miles west and slightly north of Dallas). Climate is fairly dry.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Donald Cullon | Feb 24 10
3 Answers

If a product has a perm rating of 5 at a 1" thickness. What is the perm rating at 10" thick? Is the math as simple as taking the perm per inch and dividing by thickness or is the relationship non-linear? What happens when you add a coat of primer and two coats of latex paint?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jim Swenson | Jul 21 10
12 Answers

As part of a remodel project I've been asked to install new fan controls for two bathrooms, each with its own fan. The existing controls are simple toggle switches, and apparently at least one occupant (a teenager who is otherwise a straight-A student) cannot be persuaded to switch the fan on during lengthy showers. In the past I have installed 5-10-20-30 timer switches, and like those in my own house, but I've been able to get people in the household to use the fans every time.

In Mechanicals | Asked By David Meiland | Jul 16 10
1 Answer

I am building a home. I live in the same mixed-humid climate zone as Louisville, Kentucky.
My HVAC contractor has installed ductwork in the attic. (I did not want this, but he insisted it was necessary for air conditioning).

Steel ductwork runs up a chase from the basement to an attic manifold. Flexible insulated tubes branch of this to each rooms ceilings. Also, return air flexible tubes to another ductwork manifold that runs back down to the basement geothermal unit.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Chris | Jul 20 10
11 Answers

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In General questions | Asked By ADKJAC UPSTATE NY | Jul 1 10
6 Answers

Turning a garage into a habitable room and we are installing a new wood sub floor (needs to be 5" higher than the slab) over an existing concrete slab. We are presuming there is no membrane below the slab. In past jobs we have put down a 6mil membrane and floated PT 2xs with 3/4" ply on top. I am wondering if there is a better method by which we didn't use pressure treated wood. Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks.

In General questions | Asked By Tom | Jul 19 10
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