Q&A: A Forum for Green Building Experts and Beginners

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions. The usual rules of courtesy apply: 1. Be nice. 2. If you can't be nice, be polite. 3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief. To attach a photo or illustration: Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments." Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo. Thanks for joining the conversation!

1 Answer

Asked this over at JLC, I am still interested in opinions on question and comments...

I am going to use the formadrain in a few weeks. I am going to use the interior formadrain for radon abatement (interior formadrain connected to a 4' PVC passive system to vent out the roof at first, then fan driven if the radon numbers come in high after the house is completed).

In General questions | Asked By Joseph Garten | Feb 29 12
15 Answers

From inside out...
1/2" Drywall
2x4 framing
Cellulose
Diagonal T brace or let in 2x bracing
2" XPS caulked and taped (doubles as WRB)
Horizontal Furring strips
Extira Siding

CZ5
2x4 framing w/ 2"XPS makes window bucks easy. Extira (exterior grade MDF) is the probable siding choice as the desired look is approx. 2'x4' panels, and smooth texture is preferred. Running the furring strips horizontally allows the panels to be fastened in a location the makes sense for the panels, as well as allowing some customization of panel size. What am I missing/overlooking

In Plans Review | Asked By Aaron Vander Meulen | Jan 3 12
3 Answers

A insulation contractor gave me the option of a wet spray blown-in fiberglass product. Made by Guardian, UltraFit DS appears to be applied like wet spray cellulose. Any insight, pros/cons would be appreciated.

Home located in North Central Washington State. Climate zone 5.

Thanks.
Thomas

In General questions | Asked By Thomas LaCrosse | Feb 28 12
5 Answers

We are designing a dedicated ERV (recouperator) duct system in a high efficiency remodel. The question has arisen regarding the bathroom exhausts and whether we can utilize the ERV exhausts in each bathroom and a booster switch (dual function timer) in lieu direct vent bathroom exhaust fans. Thoughts? Ultimateair does not to take a strong position on it in their literature.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Patricia Shields | Jan 2 12
4 Answers

Could really use some help from the experts here on the next recommended steps to take to find a solution to the mold growth in my basement. I have a one year old home in Tennessee that was built using Tremco Enviro-Dri and Tuff & Dri products. About 2 months ago, I pulled back the insulation to began to run electric in the basement and found the sheathing and insulation to be damp and mold starting to grow. It appears to be a condensation problem as it was fairly universal across all the exposed framed basement walls, but is worse on the north facing walls.

In General questions | Asked By Chip Keim | Feb 27 12
1 Answer

I have a brand new home in Northern Virginia. The home has a 9' high full in-ground basement that is currently unfinished. I am wondering when we decide to finish this in the coming years what is the most efficient way to do so.

In my experience the basement tends to be cooler or cold and damp. We should have adequate drainage through the drain tile system, sump pump, and foundation water proofing.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Shaun Kennedy | Feb 28 12
4 Answers

I am building a well insulated house in NW Ontario, Canada I have been debating on the method of heat supply. I am leaning towards hydronic radiant heating, I plan to build using a slab at grade with a frost wall, the slab will have radiant heating. The 2nd floor I don't want to install the tubing within the floor system since the floor joists and subfloor will be exposed, sort of a timber frame look nor do i want to pour a slab on the 2nd floor.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Jody Brinkman | Feb 23 12
17 Answers

We have a single level ranch style home with crawl space that connects with the basement living space. The crawl space is located at the end of the ranch home. This crawl space has a vapor barrier over the rocky dirt floor, originally installed as part of radon remediation. The concrete walls in the crawl space contribute to cold air and possibly some moisture. At this point, though, I think that it is safe to say that no water seeps through into the crawl space.

In Green products and materials | Asked By william phillips | Feb 24 12
18 Answers

Quoting from "Radiant Barriers: A Solution in Search of a Problem":

In Green products and materials | Asked By John Mattson | Sep 29 11
3 Answers

Hi,

I live in Pittsburgh and am doing a renovation of an old home. I'm doing a lot of the work so far myself, with the help of my father. At the same time I've been working with an architect to figure out the overall project. And there is disagreement between my two spheres on how to insulate the attic.

The (hopefully) key points: it's currently a vented attic, I'm going to be putting HVAC and ductwork in that space.

My father is recommending I keep the attic as vented, put down batting on the attic floor, and do various things to ensure the HVAC unit is leak free and insulated

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Will Oberman | Feb 26 12
Register for a free account and join the conversation


Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!