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2 Answers

I will not be able to finish my deck for months but would like to get a final inspection signed off.

Suggestions for temporary deck railing that will meet code would be much appreciated. We are in Washington State.

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Jacque Hyler | Jan 29 15
18 Answers

Double Staggered-Stud Wall vs. 2x3 + Foam Strip + 2x4 Wall

My new house will be in a part of climate zone 2B in Arizona where the winter nights often dip into the 30s and the summer days often rise to 100 with around 45 days of "monsoon season" mostly in August when we'll get an hour of thunderstorms once or twice a week. We have moderate to severe termites.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Jeff Cooper | Jan 23 15
5 Answers

Any ideas on best/greenest counter top materials?

Cost per square foot, if available, would be appreciated.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Jacque Hyler | Jan 29 15
9 Answers

Unvented roof deck with dense-packed cellulose -- vapor barrier?

Hi I just dense packed my attic ceiling (it is a livable space, not crawl) with dense pack cellulose (8"), held in with insulweb. we put the cellulose right up against the roof deck. I am concerned whether I need a vapor barrier and where it should go. My plan was to just put rough cut wood (not tongue and groove ontop of it for the ceiling, but a few people who looked at it thought I might need a vapor or air barrier. The roof is not vented.

In General questions | Asked By carrie da | Jan 29 15
4 Answers

Combining electric cove heaters with PV

In a recent blog, Designing an HVAC System for a Cold Climate, Malcolm Taylor is quoted as recommending electric cove heaters, and a link to the Comfort Cove line from Radiants Systems, Inc. is provided in the blog text. Searching Green Building Advisor turns up half a dozen other references to cove heaters, all very short, and all positive. I wonder if there is more useful advice on choosing and using this technology for supplemental heat.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Derek Roff | Jan 29 15
13 Answers

Does a flexible stainless steel chimney flue really need an insulation wrap?

I am preparing to install a stainless steel flexible liner inside an unlined masonry chimney on an exterior wall to provide draft for a wood stove. Every internet website selling the liners stresses the need for an insulation wrap to keep the vapors warm, improve the draft, and diminish creasote buildup. This has also been emphysized at GBA for similar reasons on multiple occasions. The available wrap liners are typically alkaline earth silicate (AES).

In General questions | Asked By W. Timothy Ward | Jan 26 15
8 Answers

Ductless minisplit retrofit question

I live in southeastern NC, near the coast. My house is just under 1900 sqft with a bonus room over an attached two car garage. My HVAC ducts are in the unconditioned, vented attic. I understand the problems with this. Would a ductless minisplit make sense as a retrofit option? If so, can you just remove the ductwork and patch the drywall where the supply registers are? How do you determine how many head units you need and the best places to install them? I was thinking about this as an option for when I eventually have to replace my heat pump and/or air handler.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jason Dennis | Jan 12 15
4 Answers

Waterproofing exterior of basement wall with spray foam

Hi, Recently, I had a problem, my basement wall was bowing in. A company came out and used hydraulic jacks and straightened the wall out. They dug out the exterior and supposedly sprayed a foam on the outside to waterproof. My walls now leak horribly when they did not leak at all prior to their work. They said they could not put a bladder on the exterior because the walls were the old stacked limestone so they used the foam which they said would do the same thing the bladder would.. I called them and now they are saying the foam is not a waterproofer.

In General questions | Asked By Josa Combs | Jan 29 15
2 Answers

Adhesive and ignition barrier for unfaced polyiso?

I got couple pallets of polyiso from an insulation recycler. It is NRG Insulation, 1.5" stuff. But it isn't foil-faced. Will be installing those in my basement with poured concrete walls.

Two questions:

1. What is the best adhesive (I can hopefully get at Home Depot or Amazon) to glue those polyiso panels to the basement wall, and how much of it do I use per panel?

2. Since it is not foil-faced polyiso, can I use FSK paper for an ignition barrier or is there another alternative, besides drywall?

Thanks!

In Green products and materials | Asked By Apollo S | Jan 28 15
10 Answers

Got cellulose insulation, how to fix the interior holes?

They drilled two holes and loose filled it (i know, it should be dense packed). The holes are 2 inches wide, and plugged with styrofoam discs about 1in thick. Some are reasonably tight, some are loose. What is a good way to fix this, if i drywall compound and paint many of these will move over time. I was thinking of using a few cans of spray foam, cutting flush with a painting razor and painting. Would this work well, or do i need to sand and plaster before painting or is there a better way?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Alan B | Jan 22 15
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