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3 Answers

Hot water using the boiler

Using my boiler that has a heating coil and is plumbed into the hot water tank-- My hot water is coming out brown looking and sulfur smelling but not bad --just brown colored. Can the coil be bad?

In General questions | Asked By Chris Kennedy | Aug 4 15
1 Answer

Ridge vent question

Hi Everyone,

I posted a while ago about insulating my 3rd floor attic room and will probably do the entire rafters and insulate the whole space rather than the "room". I will need to replace the roof - it is original 1993 before I do anything. I looked at spray foam but considering the cost and inability for it to give me my required R38 I will probably do soffit to ridge venting with Roxul R23 in the 2x8 rafters and then do R15 in a 2x4 running perpendicular to the rafters. I currently have gable vents and will have to fill them.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Joe Watson | Aug 5 15
8 Answers

Heating system advice for zone 7 new build

I am building a home in Grand County Colorado, climate zone 7 that will be used as a vacation/ second home for my family and as a rental property when we are not there. It is still in design but the plan is around 3,000 SF on 2 stories plus around 1,500 SF basement, R35 walls/ R75 roof/ triple glazed windows. The property does not have natural gas service but does have electrical service and we plan put in a propane tank.

I am researching different options for heating and DHW, cooling will not be required.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Chris Armstrong | Aug 4 15
1 Answer

Floor plans

I am in beginning stages of diy renovation of a rundown double wide mobile home.

52' x 28' . the midline where they meet is 13.5' for each side.

I was wondering where i could go to get a better floor plan that is more energy
efficient. I believe that i can move things around. the limiting factor is the
walls in certain sections needed to support the roof.

Any advice on who I can contact ?

Would it be an architect ?

Thanks for any help.!!

In Plans Review | Asked By Jacq snow | Aug 4 15
6 Answers

Zone 7 wall help - 2" foam exterior, 3/4" plywood to interior - need vapor retarder?

Need help on this wall. Live in far northern MN. Talked with the local building inspector and found out that he is insisting on me using an interior vapor retarder (class II) on a high-r wall that I would like to use. After 25+ years in the window/door industry and seeing the damage that a "tight" wall can do, I am trying to avoid this. Any help would be much appreciated/

Here's the rundown of the wall construction.....exterior to interior

* House wrap
* 2" insulated sheathing (XPS, etc.)
* 2x6 studs
* Cellulose fill insulation

In General questions | Asked By brett mattson | Aug 3 15
5 Answers

Best type of windows to use? And brand?

Hello all have question I am building a new home out side of Philadelphia zone 4a/5a and the home is a more contemporary style was thing of using fiberglass windows , can any one recommend different window brands to me and what type of windows I was looking at casement and picture windows , since the home is more contemporary there will be a lot of windows I do not know if in my area it makes sense to use triple glazed windows , the major brands in the area are Marvin , Anderson, Pella , from what I have found out Marvin is the only one that makes an all fiberglass window which is what i want

In Green products and materials | Asked By Boris Rubinstein | Aug 3 15
4 Answers

Reduce thermal bridging

Hey Everyone,

I live in zone 4 and have open-cell foam on the underside of my rafters which will be an insulated cathedral ceiling. The rafters are 2x6, and I want to address thermal bridging while the drywall is down. I've read many other questions by other posters, and although I understand the merits of putting rigid foam on top of the roof sheathing, that's just not feasible in my current financial state. Additionally, the roof is young and in no need of being replaced. I've considered the following scenarios:

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Steven Dunkel | Aug 2 15
3 Answers

What size stone should be used over the 4" perimeter drain line?

What size stone would you recommend using over the 4" perimeter drain line?

Thank you

Russell Drollinger

In General questions | Asked By Russell Drollinger | Aug 4 15
4 Answers

Exterior rigid foam plus celluose rafter insulation questions

I have a difficult-to-insulate second floor with as-yet uninsulated side attic kneewalls and an insulated attic above most of the living space. The rest of the 1917 house has gotten lots of energy upgrades: minisplits instead of 80 y.o. furnace, 3 inches of foam under siding, etc. It's just the attic left.

In General questions | Asked By arthur strum | Nov 11 14
6 Answers

Insulating condo walls

Condo walls don't have insulation so smells and airborne sounds travel easily between units. There are gas appliances so can't get it too tight. However if there is a leak in one unit, you know pretty quickly. Condo in zone 4a. What is the best insulation for the walls to remedy this situation? Dense pack cellulose? JM Spider dense pack insulation? Thanks.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Sam York | Aug 3 15
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