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1 Answer

My house has a 5 ton AC which was oversized for the house even before weatherization. However, the unit is only 5 years old and I don't want to replace it yet. Below are some suggestions to get the unit to run longer to increase efficiency and moisture removal.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Dorothy Prowell | Feb 18 12
2 Answers

Hello all-

My home is in climate zone 5a. We recently had a radon mitigation system installed due to elevated radon levels. It is a sub-slab depressurization system and is working very well.

However I have a couple of questions:

1) If I want to improve ventilation in the house (separate and apart from the radon issue), can I install an HRV or ERV or will this affect the effectiveness of the radon mitigation system? Said differently, what would be the best type of ventilation solution that would improve air quality and even help further reduce radon levels?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Allan Wood | Feb 17 12
6 Answers

Hello all-
I had an earthen floor installed in the cellar during a renovation/rehab of a multi-family townhouse. The major components of the earth floor (substrate, vapor barrier, tamped earth, etc.) were completed many months ago but the tamped earth was not sealed and finished.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Jennifer Shaffer | Feb 17 12
14 Answers

I am building a new home in Park City Utah at 7500 feet with an average winter high in the mid 30’s and lows in the high teens to low twenties…low humidity. I am planning to use 2” Hunter XCI
Polyisocyanurate foam core panel bonded to an impermeable foil facing material with a foil face providing an R value of 14.1. The foam is installed over tyvex and the interior walls will use a bib R23 system.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By dennis levine | Feb 15 12
7 Answers

We are considering the following two options most seriously for the east, west and north sides of our straw bale home:
1. Northerm quad pane PVC with low E x 2 coats plus argon gas or
2. Cascadia or Clarity fiberglass frames, triple pane plus low E x2 and argon.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Vicky Poulsen | Feb 14 12
7 Answers

I don't want to throw away the metal that is on the roof now, but want it to be more efficient. So I want to put rigid foam board and new metal roof over the old. Can that be done?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jo Flores | Feb 16 12
8 Answers

Kudos to Michael Chandler
Named Master Green Builder of the year by the NAHB

In General questions | Asked By John Brooks | Feb 8 12
4 Answers

I will be removing the exterior sheathing and addressing air sealing & insulation from the exterior. Interior walls (plaster &wood lathe) are in good shape and the windows are not being replaced. I live in the Seacoast of NH. I plan to install plywood sheathing, typar, rain slicker (rain screen), combination of vertical grain siding &shingles. The part i can not make my mind up on is the insulation. I would rather not install exterior insulation although i realize that is preferred. I am not looking for passivhaus standards just to make the best of the space i have.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By terry grube | Feb 10 12
14 Answers

i am hoping to get some feedback on the issue I have found in my house while redoing our dining room. The electrical issues that can be seen in the photo's are one of the reasons I pulled the drywall to begin with and are being corrected. My dilemma at the moment is how to properly insulate this area of the house.

In General questions | Asked By J Loc | Jan 16 12
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