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3 Answers

Need help to resolve block foundation problem.

I recently purchased a house that was built in 2002 in southwestern PA. The ground outside appears to be rock and shell. The basement walls were gray foundation block. The height of the basement is approximately 9 feet. Approximately 2 -2 1/2 feet is above ground level. On the one wall and three corners I noticed a white substance on the block. This white substance started at the bottom of walls/corners and would go up even past the ground level to top of basement wall.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Ron Miller | Mar 7 12
3 Answers

Seeking advice on options for full roof replacement in San Francisco Bay area house

I am a "newbie" to this group and hoping this question is appropriate.

We are first time homeowners whose 90 year old single story craftsman cottage needs a new roof installed. Our city code desk advises that the current asphalt shingles & cedar shake layers currently laid over 1x6 fir boards (with spaces between) must be totally removed and new deck sheathing installed under a new roof.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Terry Allen | Mar 6 12
28 Answers

Stack effect discussion

I find it interesting and a little frustruting that in all the discussion on stack effect I have not been able to find one article discussing the contribution of leaky ducts located in attics to stack effect. I have a home owner who reported excessive dust in her home. She lives in a 22 year old two story home in central California built before the requirement for sealed ducts. I noticed she had about 12 can lights in the ceiling of the upstairs rooms which were not air tight and with the other typical air leaks inthe upper portion of the shell of her home I suspected some duct leaks.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Gary Richardson | Feb 28 12
1 Answer

Thermal bridging -- dryer & other vent materials

Normally the ducting for dryer vents is aluminum or galvanized steel as are many other types of vents like range hoods.

Is the thermal bridging caused by the use of these materials enough to worry about ? IF yes, then what can be used instead of aluminum or galvanized steel ?

Thanks

roy

In Green products and materials | Asked By Roy Goodwin | Mar 6 12
6 Answers

Acid stain for concrete interior floor

We are looking to stain our new concrete (interior) slab. We have all ready added a pigment to it, so we don't want to cover it with something opaque. I love the look of the acid stains. I have a dozen or so 12X12" blocks from the same pour of concrete to experiment with colors.

We had a friend apply a few colors of Soy based stain and it came out very opaque, basically covering the pigment we added to the concrete. On their web page they say the soy stain in semi-transparent, while the acid stains say they are translucent.

In Green products and materials | Asked By diane minutilli | Feb 15 12
10 Answers

Double stud wall detail....review

I am attaching my proposed double stud wall detail I came up with. Let me know if anyone has any suggestions to improve it, or areas that are overkill/not needed.

The other option is running the ICF to the trusses. I like the benefits of full ICF, however from an energy standpoint (zone 6) I do not think they will hit the goals I am after. At an $8k add, I think it would be a step in the wrong direction.

In Plans Review | Asked By Jesse Lizer | Dec 13 11
6 Answers

Air handler issue

I have a 3 story cape code house that has the air handlers for the air conditioning system installed in the 3 foor knee wall unconditioned space. This set up has caused me a lot of problems with insulation and leaks over the years and I understand the many problems with this set up. The sysem is almost 25 years old and is nearing its life expectancy. The HVAC contractor told us that air handlers have not changed much in design or size since we installed this system and had no other suggestions for moving the system.. My questions are the following:

In Mechanicals | Asked By Tim Ward | Mar 5 12
3 Answers

Exterior Storm Room Wall, Zone 4A/3A?

I am working on an exterior wall detail for a guest bedroom and guest bathroom in an addition on our house that will double as storm rooms. The FEMA plans for a storm room show a double layer of 3/4" plywood fastened to wood studs.

Right now I'm thinking of 2x6 studs at 16" on center. From the interior to exterior:

GWB (mold proof);
2x6 studs with unfaced fiberglass insulation;
3/4" Advantek (subflooring) screwed to studs and lapped onto floor and ceiling band joists;
1-1/2" extruded polystyrene;

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Bill Daugherty | Mar 5 12
3 Answers

PERSIST Workshop Wall Construction in Upstate NY (Zone 5A/6A)

I am going to break ground on a 24'x32' detached workshop in a month or two. I liked Martin's article on "Getting Insulation Out of Your Walls and Ceilings" enough that I am going to give the PERSIST technique a try with this workshop. Here is my wall detail.

In Plans Review | Asked By Clement B. Edgar III | Mar 4 12
2 Answers

We are rebuilding a dormer on a historical house in New Orleans

We are rebuilding a dormer on a historical house in New Orleans. There are slates going up the side of the dormer to the roof.

Typically, there is a trim board [1"x 8"] from the front of the dormer returning to the roof.One carpenter says the return trim should go over the slates. I maintain that the slates should butt up to the return trim. Who's right?

In General questions | Asked By roger steinbrink | Mar 5 12
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