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1 Answer

Flash and Batt foam thickness

I'm in NJ climate zone 5 and have a project with an installed falsh and batt with 1" closed cell foam and Roxul batt in wood framing. I usually spec 2"+ but would like to avoid ripping everything apart and spraying more foam. Is there a chart/rule-of-thumb anywhere showing wtih of foam based on climate zone averages or any specific data to justify thickness besides doing a calc? This seems like a case where it would probably be ok but with a small chance for a big problem??

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Michael Margulies | Jan 25 13
0 Answers

Seeking framer familiar with exterior rigid insulation in Southeast MI

My wife and I are building a new home in Royal Oak, MI with anticipated May start. Our general contractor is having difficulty finding a framer familiar with the installation of exterior rigid foam. Any referrals would be greatly appreciated.

Our planned wall assembly:
2x6 framing
Plywood
2-3" of polyiso (2 layers with seams staggered)
WRB - tyvek or similar
Furring strips
hardiplank

In General questions | Asked By Troy Stevenson | Jan 24 13
0 Answers

Commercial windows in residential application

Hello,

I have a residential house project starting this spring in Breckenridge, Colorado (8900 elevation). Our house has a contemporary design and would like to put commercial windows in the majority of the house. Local building codes have adopted the 2006 energy code and require .35 U value for the fenestration opening. I have several questions regarding this issue.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Bret Bonenberger | Jan 24 13
15 Answers

Another retrofit tale

If I have to phrase a post as a question, I guess this one boils
down to "so, whaddaya think?"

I managed a DER on my own house over the summer, and some of you
possibly saw some of my questions that stemmed from that. At the
risk of tooting my own horn a little, I'd like to start giving back
to the community by sharing the MONSTER writeup I've done about the
project -- and there's more to come, as I collect and compare energy
stats over the rest of this winter. At almost 120,000 words it's
easily book-length, but right now it's just a set of simple web-pages

In Green building techniques | Asked By Hobbit _ | Jan 11 13
2 Answers

Applying housewrap

I didn't read all of your questions/answers but after reading quite a few, I didn't see where there was a mention of a right and wrong side to housewrap. I would think to ensure that a product would perform to it's highest standard, ensuring there would be proper escape of moisture through the product,this innovation would have a right and wrong side; correct, or does it matter? In other words, apply the housewrap to walls with the print facing out.

Charline

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Charline Bridgeman | Jan 24 13
1 Answer

A few unvented crawl space questions

I am detailing an unvented 600 sq. ft. crawlspace that is 4' high. The exterior side of the concrete wall is insulated with 5" of EPS and has been damp-proofed.

My plan now is to insulate the floor with 3" EPS and cover with two layers of poly that will be mechanically fastened with horizontal battens and acoustic sealant to the side of the footing. to boost the R-value in the wall i will add 1.5" XPS and then build a stud wall to cover with gypsum wallboard.

In General questions | Asked By erik olofsson | Jan 24 13
0 Answers

Cold air infiltration through a power-vented water heater

Hello.
I was wondering if anyone has a solution for this problem.

I recently installed a power-vented natural gas water heater to replace a 20-year-old electric.

The installation was done by me and inspected by both a gas fitter and the local gas company. All is good...

However, there is a significant amount of cold outside air coming in the 2" (system 636) exhaust from the power vent, and its enough to spin the fan on the power vent backwards. (when not running of course)

In GBA Pro help | Asked By R Hunt | Jan 24 13
17 Answers

Summer sun control - Zone 6, Madison, WI

I'm advising the onwer of a 50 unit, 6 story multifamily building on how best to cost effectively control excessive heat gain in the summer. We started by looking into louvered overhang retrofits made from aluminum and attached to the 6th floor, south side units. ( The 1-5 floors have the balconies above them to shade some.) The price? $30,000 for 5 apartments. Not in anyone's price range. The existing glass is a tinted charcoal gray Insulated Glass Unit. For that reason, window film installers are saying that they can't guarantee the glass won't break if they install.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By mark faultersack | Jan 21 13
9 Answers

Moisture barrier for attic in brick house with slate roof?

I live in Zone 5a in roughly 800 sq. feet of living space in a duplex, part of a "development" of houses built in 1917 to house workers in war-time industries.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Deborah Goodwin | Jan 23 13
5 Answers

Venting flat roof with two thermal boundaries

I wanted to get your opinion on this, as I've heard differing thoughts. As an energy auditor in Phoenix (8 inches of rain / year, relatively low outdoor RH), I see a number of "flat" roofs with two different thermal barriers (foam w/elastomeric atop roof deck, and unfaced batt (or even faced batt) in the attic space atop the ceiling).

The attic space is usually between 20 and 30 Pascal @ CFM50, and many times, the attic is vented.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jason Owsley | Jan 13 13
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