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2 Answers

best way to flash this DEEP innie window....

I am working on a small commercial project, and I am trying to figure out the best way to install and flash this deep innie window. The design intent is to use a clip system vertical wood rainscreen. Since I want a 2' thickness to the wall, I am building 2 walls. An inner 6" metal bearing wall and an outer 2x4 wood wall that holds only the rainscreen. However closing off the gap is what i am trying to figure out. I am using ZIP sheathing with 1.5" XPS foam on the metal framed wall.

In General questions | Asked By Jesse Lizer | Jul 12 12
13 Answers

Exposed rafter tails, GBA CAD detail

I have some elementary (for you) questions that are not elementary to me.

First, the basics: we're going to be building a house in Oregon, Marine Zone 4c. I'm assuming a simple gable roof, shallow 3/12 pitch, California Bungalow style, with the rafter tails showing (no closed soffit). There'll be a raised heel truss, 16" heel to get R-49 in the attic--which will be vented. The walls will be 2x6 (Roxul R-23 mineral wool) with 2" of foam (or Roxul board) and vented rainscreen under 1/2" Nichiha fiber cement siding. Questions:

In General questions | Asked By Gordon Taylor | Jul 11 12
3 Answers

Shrink Wrap

Has anyone tried using shrink wrap under slab or to cover an entire building? I've used it to build temporary structures and cover boats. It's really strong, puncture resistant UV stable and the shrink wrap tape sticks really well. Once heated it conforms to almost any shape. I am thinking about using it under a slab with radiant heat as I have a partial roll lying around. Any thoughts?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By John McCormack | Jul 13 12
1 Answer

How are the tests for Spillage, draft and CO done if the CAZ door to a sealed combustion closet is closed and the closet is small?

I have looking at Sealed Combustion Closets as an economical way to mitigate WCD effects on atmospherically drafted water heaters inside the living space.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By David Sipes | Jul 7 12
6 Answers

Window detail question: flashing over bottom nail fin?

I just finished installing some new windows and am having second thoughts about one flashing detail.

Particulars: Austin, TX, Zone 2, South East facing wall. Concrete block construction, rough openings brought to size with treated lumber bucks. Windows are Milgard fiberglass, with integral wood inside. Wall has 2 foot eave (but up quite high since it's a gable end). Eventually we're going to finish out the wall with either foam or mineral wool, rain screen and siding.

We ran beam of caulk between bucks and concrete before fastening them.

In Green building techniques | Asked By James Howison | Jul 7 12
7 Answers

Is poly (VB) necessary under insulated slab?

I am building a shallow frost-protected foundation that is entirely underlain with 6" EPS (including footers). This is, from my understanding is a class II vapor retarder, not the Class I vapor retarder (vapor barrier) that should be used directly under a slab over just stone. I see in some cases it is omitted when foam is used, and in other cases, it is recommended to make sure it is on top of the foam in direct contact with the slab. I am in zone 6, btw. I am more interested in it's use to help to restrict air (and potential radon) infiltration. Thanks

In Green building techniques | Asked By Kenneth Ruddy | Jul 10 12
12 Answers

For an unvented cathedral ceiling is a roofing deck sandwich of 1/2" plywood and 2" of both sides foil faced polyiso, OK ?

I am planning the building of a new year round ENERGY STAR VERSION 3 lakefront home on Andover Lake, CT. The home will have an unvented cathedral ceiling with the following insulation and sheathing configuration. I refuse to use OSB or SIPS in the construction of my home due to their inferior water resistance and durability, (NOTE: California does not approve SIPS in residential construction in many areas.) The insulation/sheathing configuration are the following::

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By JOSEPH POLAND | May 31 12
11 Answers

Is anybody familiar with http://www.facit-homes.com/? Any concerns?

I am considering building a modest home in the Rockies in Grande Cache, Alberta - likely an 2 story octagon with sides 16 feet long and a full walk out basement to take in the beautiful mountain views. This is Canada - resale value drops without a basement. The town has over 12,000 HDD. Labour costs are high. I am looking for a modular system as close to idiot proof as can be reasonably designed so I can erect it with one carpenter and some unskilled labor (friends).

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Don Green | Jul 8 12
2 Answers

How much basement floor insulation?

I have a 60 year old home with a poured concrete foundation and concrete floor in the basement level. I've applied XPS foam board to the interior basement walls and I'm now considering insulated subfloor panels but figure I can do the same thing with thicker foamboard and sheets of OSB for less money per sq ft. However the panels seem simple to work with and would be quick and easy and they have drainage grooves that might be helpful, but I'm unsure if half an inch of XPS is enough. Is the convenience of these panels worth the higher price?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Mark Fredericks | Jul 10 12
3 Answers

Foam board only for insulation, and a ? about foil-faced polyiso...

Hello all, I am a frequent visitor / reader but this is my first question. I'll try to answer the anticipated "details, please!" stuff, but let me know if I'm leaving something out...

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By John Mikkelson | Jul 10 12
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