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1 Answer

Hello, I'm finishing the basement paying attention to Joe L's detail: http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-103-understanding-b...
My drywall contractor suggested vapor retarding primer, before he textures, as this is his standard practice.
Question: should we forego the primer and use only the texture and then latex paint?
thank you

In Green building techniques | Asked By Frank O | Jan 27 12
5 Answers

Hi Everyone,

Looking for a couple opinion answers on a project I am doing. We are going to do 2 inches of closed cell foam inside a new construction home to vapor / air seal it as best as possible, The next step is where im a little stuck.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Denis Recchia | Jan 27 12
13 Answers

Working on a house in Chattanooga TN (zone 4) that needs weatherization badly. Already decided on cc SPF to seal some "crawlspace walls" and exposed floor system from below that are outside the "crawlspace". There are many angles, transitions and irregularities that would make rigid foam or air barrier protecting batts very difficult hence the reason for going with SPF.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Brian Knight | Jan 26 12
7 Answers

I'm an architect in Wisconsin (climate zone 6B) and am planning to build a 300 s.f. addition to my house. I'd like to side it in fiber cement siding to match the existing house. According to my calculations, if I want to use rigid foam insulation on the outside of the 2x6 walls (with R-21 fiberglass in the wall cavities), I need at least R-11.25 in order to avoid condensation on the inside face of the sheathing. I was thinking we could use 2" of polyiso.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Julie Kardatzke | Jan 26 12
2 Answers

Hello,

Not sure if I chose the right category to ask this question. I apologize if it’s misplaced.

I installed a kitchen island hood last summer with 6" exhaust duct straight up through the ceiling into the attic and through the roof in a bangalow. Location - Toronto Canada. I assume it's a zone 6. The duct was inside insulated sleeve.
Now that the winter is here and temperature changes sometimes 10 degrees in one day occasionally water is leaking from out of the hood.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Andrei Sosnovsky | Jan 25 12
3 Answers

I would like to know what type of polyiso rigid board to use over the exterior of sheathing, assuming a rainshield will be placed over that? Does foil covered improve with radiant heat or does it trap moisture and create mold problems on the sheathing interface as some blog responses claim? Hunter makes H-shield which has fiber reinforced surfaces, but no foil. Would there be deterioration concerns?

Thanks,
Steve

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Steve dorsey | Jan 26 12
1 Answer

Spray foam insulation within roof rafters is proposed for a large town hall building built in 1883. Location is in Northern part of the mitt in Michigan. Attic space is very, very large. Existing insulation consists of 12" blown in insulation in what I believe to be a non- vented attic space
Heating units and ductwork are in the attic. Plans for the future are to move the furnace to the basement and air condition unit to be in the attic. Considerations are also being discussed for an air exchanger, location not known.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By steve miller | Jan 26 12
9 Answers

My wife and I are planning to build a new house (2400 sq. ft) in Southern Delaware. We are considering PV solar and perhaps a closed loop geothermal. Not sure we can afford both. Rebates in DE. appear to be higher for solar than geo. Both technologies would provide credits for Fed tax; no DE state tax credits. In addition, we would receive credits for unused solar production and be able to sell SRECs. Nothing similar for the geo install.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Ken Niehaus | Jan 25 12
1 Answer

I have read and continue to read the articles and blogs posted here about how and what to place on the exterior of the sheathing. As soon as I think I have the details worked out, another article points a different direction. My remodel project is a home framed with 2X4 walls and CDX plywood sheathing. Before I replace the windows, I must determine how i will insulate. Living in the Seattle, WA area brings in the issue of high humidity.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Steve dorsey | Jan 26 12
1 Answer

In the article on attic sealing on the Building Science Corporation Site and in a recent Fine homebuilding article, they talk about the pressure that having a ridge vent only (in the attic) can create thus sucking conidtioned air from the house out of the home.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Julie Herr | Jan 25 12
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