Q&A: A Forum for Green Building Experts and Beginners

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

The usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration:
Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments."
Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!

0 Answers

Here's a video showing the delivery of triple-glazed European Passivhaus windows at a job site in New York City. The contractor is Eco Brooklyn:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TAREB9kybrw

In PassivHaus | Asked By Martin Holladay | Sep 15 11
2 Answers

Anybody have experience with / opinions on siding with Ondura? It seems like it would be easy to work with, and I'm chewing on using it for siding on an outbuilding, as compared to fiber cement (which I have on my house). Seems more lightweight, easier to handle solo, especially when I'm up 12'. I'm trying to balance ease of installation, cost, durability, and aesthetics (join the club).

Durable? Junk? Horrifically not-green production process even compared to fiber cement?

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/product-guide/prod/ondura

Thanks--
Mr. Minneapolis Disaster

In General questions | Asked By Minneapolis Disaster, 6B | Sep 15 11
0 Answers

New construction; looking at the Juno 2nd generation 5"&6" recessed LEDs at about $240 each with trim kit and comparing those to Home Depot Halo LED units (5" & 6" adjustable in the same unit) at $60 or so ea. Has anybody had experience with either unit regarding quality, installation and operation?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By kevin uniacke | Sep 15 11
5 Answers

Zone 6
New construction
Layers from the outside in are as follows:
2x10 PT deck Ledger
2x4 Spacers
20 in tall copper flashing
20 in tall I&W shield
Plywood sheathing
20 in tall 2x4 webbed floor trusses sitting on PT sill and stepped foundation wall(I can put as many inches of insulation required here because it's above the celing of the basement)

Dry, daylight, live in foundation with lots of windows. Passive air inlet. Wood stove.

In General questions | Asked By stephen edge | Sep 15 11
4 Answers

Hi,
We're planning to gut and refinish our family room. The room has 3 exterior sides. Two of the exterior sides have traditional stucco and the other has vertical wood siding on the outside. The room also has a cathedral ceiling.

As part of the renovation I want to increase the insulation of the room. I understand that exterior insulation would be the best way but the stucco is in good shape and we are not planning to change the siding currently. So I'm looking for advice on which interior insulation to use.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Ariff Kassam | Sep 14 11
2 Answers

We have a home that was build in the 70’s. By our estimations there is probably R7 in the walls, OSB, building paper and shingles on top. We would like to take off the current siding and add additional insulation.

Our main concern is lower energy bills and comfort. Due to esthetics (windows already set) we cannot go higher than 1 inch (or so everybody says), so polyiso would make most sense in order to add the highest R-value. If we use it as a water drainage plane, the vapor barrier would have to go on the outside but wouldn’t that render its vapor retarder function useless?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By L S | Sep 14 11
1 Answer

I need to lay vinyl shingles over foam board that will be held in place by 3-inch wide strapping 16 inches on center. But there isn't going to be enough nail base because of need to stagger the joints. Suggestions?

In General questions | Asked By stephen edge | Sep 14 11
12 Answers

Dear sir,
I was at your site and learn a lot. However, I had a challenging problem where I need your opinion. My house basement has three drains on the floor. The purpose was to drain any water inside basement if basement get flooded due to water damage.

In General questions | Asked By vimal Mittal | Sep 11 11
3 Answers

Over the last couple of years, I've become a bit of Green Building Advisor junkie... learning as much as possible on the building science details, application, etc., but the results of a recent house simulation suggest that the choice in mechanical systems is more than twice as effective at lowering energy costs than wall R-value.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Darcy Grant | Sep 14 11
3 Answers

This drawing shows a gap between the old sheathing and the old insulation, just where a Proper-Vent would be. It would be better to insulate "gap" if possible. Right?

I have a cathedral ceiling job that has no insulation in it -- 2x6 joists. I want to fill the empty joist bays with cellulose, then strip the old roof, install two layers of iso, then plywood, Ice & Water barrier, then shingles.

Should I add a sleeper under the final sheathing to create a vent space?

(Zone 5, Connecticut.)

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Walter Gayeski | Sep 13 11
Register for a free account and join the conversation


Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!