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3 Answers

HRV/ERV vs exhaust only issue...

Hello-
I'm looking for some advice on ventilation. I live in VT in a house I built in 1997-- 1800 sqft, fairly well insulated, tight but not super-tight, main heat source is woodfired thermal mass heater. Open floor plans. Ac/H were estimated (not tested) at .5 at the time of construction.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Raphael Worrick | Apr 26 12
3 Answers

Under cabin insulation

Hi All,

I am planning my cabin build and I want to insulate the floors. The supporting beams will sit 12" off the ground, resting on Metal Techno posts, with 2x8 floor joists over the beams (16 OC). Not only do I need to insulate correctly but I most make sure that it is done in a way that insures no rodents can get in there.

In Green building techniques | Asked By cabinseeker asgood | Apr 27 12
3 Answers

Meeting U-Factor with Locally Built Windows

Does anyone have any experience with demonstrating compliance with the IECC for locally (shop) built glass doors and windows? Climate zone 5A, so the U-Factor is 0.35. I hesitate to say 'site built' because these would be shop fabricated. We would be matching details to existing doors and windows that are about 150 years old. Haven't been satisfied yet with commercially available options. Shop built is something we're exploring, but meeting energy efficiency requirements is the first hurdle.

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Jim Thornhill | Apr 24 12
2 Answers

Do I need to install an underlayment?

Do I still need an underlayment on a first-floor hardwood floor if I have a conditioned crawlspace with a vapor barrier on grade?

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Matt Black | Apr 26 12
4 Answers

To ERV or Not?

Hi, I'm having a house built in central VA (Zone 4)...2 floors and a basement (~3300 sq.ft.). Trying to build pretty tight and so we are concerned with proper ventilation. Each house in the community must meet certain standards which include fresh air ventilation to the ashrae standard. Btw...I'm pushing to get the hvac system within the conditioned space, so we are likely to have a single forced air ducted system for the entire house with manually set dampers for each floor.

Here are the options I've received on ventilation....

In Mechanicals | Asked By Bryan Anderson | Apr 25 12
4 Answers

How can I turn my pseudo vented roof into a true unvented roof, with cathedral ceilings?

We are living in a new house with a low pitch 1.5:12 metal split shed roof and cathedral ceilings. There was a misunderstanding when the house was built and no ventilation was framed in under the roof. We found out when we had condensation issues dripping on us over the winter....So now we want to go back to the architect's original intention and turn it into an unvented roof. In order to avoid the huge mess of taking the drywall ceilings out and spraying foam in from below, we want to know if we can do it effectively from above?

In GBA Pro help | Asked By dena platis | Apr 24 12
6 Answers

Feedback on Double Stud Walls

I'm considering using a double stud wall for a new home. in all the literature both the inside and outside stud spacing's are insulated and often the walls are connected at each floor with the outside wall being the load bearing wall.

In General questions | Asked By Sasha Harpe | Apr 23 12
10 Answers

Single-glazed double-hungs w/storms... a good strategy?

We're agonizing over window choices for our place, which is a 1930s farmhouse. The original windows were double hungs, and at some point a previous owner removed the sash and installed miserable vinyl inserts into the frames. Those have distorted significantly over the years and now leak a lot of air around the sash edges.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By David Meiland | Apr 14 12
1 Answer

1880 Victorian – no insulation and new windows needed

We live in Massachusetts. Our 1880 Victorian has no insulation in the walls/ceilings/basement. Looking to replace all the windows in the house. Looking at Marvin Infinity Series (thoughts/comments?). Confused on pro/con of different insulation options. Looks like blowing in deep pack cellulose is the most common option. Exterior of house is in descent shape (wood shingles). I have read a lot about moisture issues with deep pack. Is this really a risk since there is no vapor barrier behind my lathe and plaster? Anyone suggest a great company in Mass to do the insulation work? Thanks!

In General questions | Asked By Drew King | Apr 24 12
4 Answers

Using heat from Fridge to heat water

Has anyone thought about using the heat pump in the fridge to heat hot water?
What about a hack from a DIY ?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Dennis Doherty | Apr 23 12
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