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4 Answers

Hi,

In General questions | Asked By Mary Farrah | Sep 15 11
4 Answers

I am building a new home in Park City Utah at 7500’ which is a Climate Zone 6. The climate is relative dry as the average humidity is about 43% for the year.

I hired Heliocentric from SLC to work with my Architect to help maximize the efficiency of my new home which included 3D modeling overlaid with climate analysis and site solar survey. The result was a 35 page report detailing recommendations that are not only foreign but intimating to all the GC’s and sub contractors in the area. Consequently, I am forced to research the application of the recommendations myself.

In Green building techniques | Asked By dennis levine | Sep 17 11
18 Answers

Today's New York Times has an opinion piece that compares two approaches to addressing global warming: personal lifestyle changes versus government regulation (cap-and-trade or higher energy taxes).

It's no surprise which approach wins, in the opinion of the author, Gernot Wagner. Read the interesting analysis here: "Going Green but Getting Nowhere."

In General questions | Asked By Martin Holladay | Sep 8 11
2 Answers

I know this topic may have been beaten to death, but I'm struggling finding a definitive answer to my questions.

I live in zone 5b (Colorado east of Rockies). I am replacing my old cedar siding and windows at the same time with Hardiplank. This house was built in the early 70's. 2x4 construction, kraft-faced insulation. The exterior sheathing is about 3/4 fiberboard, in decent shape. It appears an R-5 is minimum for my area regarding rigid foam board. I had planned on using tyvek as well. I've read many papers at BuildingScience.com as well regarding this topic.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Ian Anderson | Sep 16 11
7 Answers

We live in central Alberta, Canada. Our house has R-12 insulation in the walls with vapor barrier.

I would like to add some sort of insulation on the outside and put on new siding. I would like some suggestions on what type of foam product is best, etc.

Thanks.

In General questions | Asked By Stephen Mitchell | Sep 13 11
7 Answers

On my new house design, it is a prairie style house with wide over hangs and low (3:12) pitches. I have a clearstory area that bumps up with a 4 way hip roof capping it off. Being the low pitch, and getting 14-16" of insulation up there, it fills up a lot of the roof.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jesse Lizer | Sep 15 11
0 Answers

Here's a video showing the delivery of triple-glazed European Passivhaus windows at a job site in New York City. The contractor is Eco Brooklyn:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TAREB9kybrw

In PassivHaus | Asked By Martin Holladay | Sep 15 11
2 Answers

Anybody have experience with / opinions on siding with Ondura? It seems like it would be easy to work with, and I'm chewing on using it for siding on an outbuilding, as compared to fiber cement (which I have on my house). Seems more lightweight, easier to handle solo, especially when I'm up 12'. I'm trying to balance ease of installation, cost, durability, and aesthetics (join the club).

Durable? Junk? Horrifically not-green production process even compared to fiber cement?

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/product-guide/prod/ondura

Thanks--
Mr. Minneapolis Disaster

In General questions | Asked By Minneapolis Disaster, 6B | Sep 15 11
0 Answers

New construction; looking at the Juno 2nd generation 5"&6" recessed LEDs at about $240 each with trim kit and comparing those to Home Depot Halo LED units (5" & 6" adjustable in the same unit) at $60 or so ea. Has anybody had experience with either unit regarding quality, installation and operation?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By kevin uniacke | Sep 15 11
5 Answers

Zone 6
New construction
Layers from the outside in are as follows:
2x10 PT deck Ledger
2x4 Spacers
20 in tall copper flashing
20 in tall I&W shield
Plywood sheathing
20 in tall 2x4 webbed floor trusses sitting on PT sill and stepped foundation wall(I can put as many inches of insulation required here because it's above the celing of the basement)

Dry, daylight, live in foundation with lots of windows. Passive air inlet. Wood stove.

In General questions | Asked By stephen edge | Sep 15 11
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