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3 Answers

Instrumenting a new house with moisture/temperature sensors?

I'm building a new house, and I'd like to wire it up with moisture-content and
humidity and temperature sensors to track the ebb and flow of moisture through
the building envelope. Now is the time to do it, as the walls start going up.

Does anyone have any suggestions on techniques and equipment to do this?
Cost is certainly part of the equation (this would be a fun side project). On the
other hand, I can do electrical/electronic assembly and wiring to help keep the
cost down (as long as it doesn't invoke too much time, the other variable).

In General questions | Asked By Madelyne Schnauser | Nov 27 14
8 Answers

How to fix an attempted insulation retrofit on a '70s cathedral ceiling?

I discovered this website 6 months too late!

After losing heat through a 70's era cathedral ceiling built on 2 x 8 rafters for more years than we liked to count, we decided to replace the roof, sheathing, and insulation in one operation. The area of the hip roof was bid at 2,230 sq. ft., the cathedral ceiling comprising 2,040 sq. ft., leaving a small attic space above bathroom and hallway areas under the peak.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Gregory Erickson | Dec 16 13
1 Answer

Best practices ideas for retrofitting existing PWF built in muskeg and best practices for foundations for new builds in muskeg (i.e. very wet !) and a severe cold climate

The existing PWFoundations are wet (many moldy) and have dirt floors. the crawlspace is heated with a baseboard to keep plumbing from freezing. House shifts with freeze thaw action on the spongy ground. Looking for ideas for retrofit - can remove non-draining back fill, install a skirt of frost protection, backfill with free draining materials and can cover the dirt floor with sealed poly. need to make the crawlspaces a cleaner and warmer conditioned space. Any other ideas to achieve this?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Gail Lawlor | Nov 27 14
6 Answers

ThermoCore Roof SIPs - 8" Panels

Anyone here use or have any experience with the ThermoCore SIPs? They are based out of Indiana and have a 8" polyurethane SIP ( I know about the blowing agents) with a R-50 value that I am considering using for my roof. Zone 4B

Some key points:

1 - I will be air sealing all interior panel joints with a T&G connection, caulk, gasket, and finally a peel & stick tape to ensure complete air tightness.

2 - I will use an ERV

3 - On the exterior I plan on putting a peel & stick butyl membrane that is vapor impermeable and then a standing seam metal roof.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Peter L | May 5 14
16 Answers

Spray foam insulation

I have a 100 year old house in Zone 5. There is a sunroom (approx. 5'X20') on the south side of the house which is all windows. It is built on piles (about 4' to the bottom of the joists) and open underneath with lattice. The room is open to the living room of my home and is heated by 2 forced hot water radiators. When we bought the home the floor was insulated from underneath by batt insulation and rigid insulation between the joist cavities. We had an energy audit performed when we moved in and were told this was all good. Still, the floor has always been cold.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Danny Mac | Nov 17 14
9 Answers

Insulating a cathedral ceiling

I am trying to find an effective way to insulate a cathedral ceiling (with collar ties) in zone 5 south of Chicago. I have read many of the postings and have gathered much information, but am still hesitant due to the moisture drying to one side issue.

What I have is 2x6 rafters on a 4/12. I am doing a complete remodel and plan on removing the existing drywall and insulation. I want to verify the existence (or not) of ventilation chutes from eave to ridge.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By jon cypert | Nov 25 11
2 Answers

Looking at using black sheathing for air sealing /baffles cathedral roof

I'm looking for a materiel to constuct some homemade baffles to provide an air gap for a dense packed cathedral roof. The trusses are 32" inches tall with a 1/2 inch plywood deck on top. I understand the need for a gap to allow the deck to dry to the soffits. I'm looking for a material that is permeable enough to allow the cellulose to dry to the gap while providing an air barrier as well. I was looking at this
http://bpcan.com/en-CA/products/insulation-and-structural-boards/composi...

In Green building techniques | Asked By Geoff Frood | Nov 26 14
3 Answers

Brands of HRV?

Anyone have any experience with either Lifebreath or Imperial HRVs? My architect specified Zehnder, but my HVAC guy has installed Lifebreath and Imperial, but not Zehnder.

In Mechanicals | Asked By stephen sheehy | Nov 17 14
2 Answers

U value of double windows for sound proofing?

Hello, I've just recently seen a soundproofing technique where and inner and outer window are installed in the same rough opening with a very large air gap between them (4-6"). What would the U-value impacts be of such an arrangement? Is there a way to calculate this outside of doing a labratory test? Let's assume two double hung windows with U= 0.30 ea. Does the air gap do anything for thermal performance as it does for sound?

Also, if the interior space is as air sealed as can be with normal installation techniques, will these get condensation build up?

Thanks,
Ryan

In Green building techniques | Asked By Ryan Griffin | Nov 26 14
3 Answers

Any good thoughts on Drolet wood stoves?

A relative is asking about efficient wood burning stoves. Any thoughts. I would never burn wood outside an occasional campfire using up leftover 2x4 cut offs. I told him any Canadian company can't be all that bad and it the 2000 is EPA rated whatever that means...

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
PK

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Paul Kuenn | Nov 23 14
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