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3 Answers

I had 17" of cellulose blown in between open-web floor trusses that supports a family room above an unheated garage. Recently I was installing a floor plug outlet in the family room floor and noticed that the cellulose depth was only 10-12" deep max.
I contacted the installer, and to his credit he got back to me within a few days and is coming out to take a look.
My question is to what extent should cellulose settle, and how does one remedy this lack of insulation (also found a similar depth in another area while fishing for a buried wire).

Thanks
John
Acushnet, MA

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By john roy | Sep 7 11
9 Answers

Dear Community,

First off, I'm new to this community and new to building. But that being said, this has been an incredibly helpful place that has provided a wealth of information for me to devour for the past while.

I'm working on a development of build-to-suit homes, and we have decided to build small, super-energy efficient houses, starting with a spec-home we are building to help us market/sell people on the idea.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Nandan Rao | Aug 12 11
1 Answer

I have a client building an 12x16 addition to an existing house. The addition will include an open porch/patio which is covered by trusses that span from outside edge of addition to outside edge of porch/patio. The question is this: is it better/cheaper to just insulate & seal the entire attic space between trusses or to create a wall between trusses that separates space above living space & space above porch - and thus only insulating this wall and the attic floor?

In General questions | Asked By Timothy Smith | Sep 7 11
6 Answers

I think I asked this question on here some time ago, but can't remember the general take on it... In the next few weeks I have to A) Replace my 10 year old oil tank at a cost of $1700 OR B) Get rid of my forced hot air system altogether and install a Steffes ETS unit at a cost of $3140 (plus I can get time of day rates/use).

In Mechanicals | Asked By Mark Pennell | Sep 7 11
4 Answers

Getting ready to replace existing T&G redwood siding with new material (same stuff), and being from the East Coast, we don't work with redwood very often. Due to existing clad windows and no trim, space is limited to do a WRB and rainscreen, so we are leaning towards Tyvek Drainwrap. Should we have any concern with the redwood directly against Tyvek? Are there better options out there for a rain screen, without the thickness of a Homeslickr?

Thanks.

In General questions | Asked By Scott Schaub | Sep 4 11
2 Answers

I have a house that was built in the late 1960s and in the basement I have a aprox. 3 foot round hole with a steel or catiron liner the is about 4 feet deep. This liner has several inlets coming into it that appear blocked. 2 are approx. 2" in diamator ands on is 3/4'' in diamitor. What I need to know is given the information above could this be a french drain type system and how would I know Also is there any way to figure out where the ppipes for such a system would run as the basement has a concrete floor?

In General questions | Asked By Steven Conlin | Sep 4 11
6 Answers

I'm looking at 2 types of electric towel warmers in a bathroom remodel and am confused at the difference in heat output with similar watts.

One model (http://www.towelwarmersplus.com/products/classic-arch/) has a 300w element, is oil-filled and has 2267 BTU output. The other is filled with glycol/water says 240watts and 818 BTU. (http://www.ambatowelwarmers.com/jeeves/jeeves-d-curved-towel-warmer.php)

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jude Rees | Sep 4 11
3 Answers

I live in zone 2A north of Lake pontchartrain. I am building a gable house with living area upstairs. The roof is galvalume with a metal ridgevent. The ceiling in the upstairs living area is cathedral then it goes flat. Should I go to the trouble of providing air space under the roof sheathing or close off the ridge vent with closed cell foam and foam the underside of the sheathing?

In GBA Pro help | Asked By dwight foreman | Sep 2 11
2 Answers

New construction, East Tennessee, zone 3B. The roof will be unvented, and insulated at the rafters (with a thermal break) to R-40. In a 2,000 sq.ft. plan, I want to use three 2’x4’ skylights to brighten interior spaces. I am also partial to skylights because they allow one to hear the rain and feel more connected to the outdoors.

Also, is there a way for normal people like me to model the effect of windows on the wall assembly? I’d like to test the difference between glazing options, and also size choices.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By David McNeely | Sep 1 11
1 Answer

Why do Owens Corning unfaced fiberglass batts smell like burnt coffee? Perhaps the batch I'm currently inspecting was stored inside a coffee roastery. Or is it something else? On a related note - When will we be able to upload smells to the site? I hear the iPhone 7 will have an app for that.

In General questions | Asked By John Semmelhack | Sep 2 11
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