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2 Answers

Putting insulation in a wall that has none

Just moved into a new (to me) home in Southern California. A single family house, built 1965. I'm relatively new to DIY home improvements but fairly ambitious. I decided to work on upgrading a bathroom and started by tearing down the tub/shower wall in an upstairs bathroom. I got everything out to the bare studs and noticed there is no insulation. I see a thin black paper-like material that is breaking apart and behind that is (what I think) is concrete, then it must be the exterior stucco or something. So, before I build the wall back up, can/should I put insulation in this wall?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Newman Yen | Mar 25 12
2 Answers

Looking for storm door detail

I have added 2 layers of 1 inch foam and then 1x4 vert, furring . but having trouble finding out how to or were to put the storm door . it appears i have to put it on the ext. foam but that leaves a big gap between the entry door. just looking for some plan details . this sight shows window and door details but dont show any door detail. any help would be great. thank you

In General questions | Asked By richard friend | Mar 24 12
2 Answers

Blown-in floor joists... cellulose vs FG... your opinion?

I'm about to have an insulator install blown-in insulation in a 2x8 framed floor. This is Zone 4 marine, over a crawl space that is very well vented. He is willing to do either cellulose or fiberglass. What if any are the considerations?

In General questions | Asked By David Meiland | Mar 25 12
5 Answers

Metal Ag roof over doubled up foam and ice and water shield

I would like people's opinion as to whether an ag style metal roof (exposed fasteners w/ neoprene washers) would be sufficiently leak proof if installed on strapping over two layers of foam and ice and water shield as detailed on the site here.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Joel Cahalan | Mar 23 12
2 Answers

Does anyone know about using crushed shells (clam or oyster) for driveways in Washington State?

We are near the shoreline and are required to use a pervious surface material.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Mona Lydon-Rochelle | Mar 24 12
6 Answers

Huber Zip system R-6.6 sheathing and minimum foam R-values

In zone 5 (central OH), the minimum R-value of rigid foam for 2x4 construction is R-5 and R-7.5 for 2x6 construction. What would be the required amount for a 2x4 staggered stud wall on 2x6 plates? Would the Huber Zip R-6 (R-6.6) sheathing be adequate since it would only be in contact with the 2x4 studs staggered to the exterior?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Milan Jurich | Mar 24 12
1 Answer

Is there value to radiant sheathing on South/West-facing walls in hot climate?

Is there any measurable benefit to installing radiant barrier sheathing panels (7/16" OSB) on vertical walls with a West or South exposure in a Southeastern climate? Of particular concern is the siding material ( 1/2" thick fiber cement shakes) which will seemingly act as an unintended heat storage device, continuing to radiate heat into the wall assembly long after sunset.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By DENNIS MCKENNA | Mar 24 12
7 Answers


The energy auditor has just installed an HRV in our house. The blower door test was approximately 2.5. The HRV is installed in the attic with intakes from two of the bathroom fans. The intake is from the outside and after the HRV connects to the forced air return.

Here are my questions specifically regarding the HRV
1) How fast should the HRV run or how much air should it pull when its run continuously?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Kevin Hilton | Mar 22 12
3 Answers

Stair railings

Does anyone know where i can buy a book that contains math formulas for curved and offset stair railings?

In GBA Pro help | Asked By carl fields | Mar 23 12
7 Answers

Overwhelmed with Insulation Choice in NE Texas with a 3:12 pitch

We purchasing a 3000sf 1950's ranch style house in NE Tx. I really need your advice narrowing down the best insulation for us.

Problem: 3:12 pitch, no insulation and 2 wings of the house only have tiny access hatches that are blocked by ducts, and it needs a new roof in the next couple of years. Opportunity: we can seal up the openings and insulate it any way needed when we replace the roof.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Tonya McClelland | Mar 22 12
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