Q&A: A Forum for Green Building Experts and Beginners

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8 Answers
16x16 Studio Build - Climate Zone 6A

I am in the process of getting some plans together to build a 16x16 studio space located in NS, Canada. I will be using electric heat. I have decided on most of the assemblies but just wanted to see what others would think.

-Foundation will be a slab on grade, insulated with 2" XPS - many slabs this small around here are built without any frost protection, good idea? There will be a vapour barrier on the under side of the slab as well as compacted crushed stone, etc...

In Green building techniques | Asked By Mark Pennell | Jun 9 10
11 Answers
Process of renovation & what recommendations can you offer to be energy efficient .

Would like to know what kind of recommendation you can give me on foam insulation for residential home. Colonial Hall built in 1970 and the construction of the frame wall consists of:
The existing exterior wall for the 1st & 2nd floor is made up of 1/2" gypsum wallboard, 2 X 4 (3 1/2") wood frame with R-11 fiberglass insulation, along with 1/2" fire retardant material (Black material), with 2" void or dead air space and then with 3 3/4" block concrete with stucco as the exterior material.
1/2" gypsum board (Sheet rock)
3 1/2" 2 X 4 Wood Frame with R-11 Fiberglass Insulation

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Peter Zelov | Jun 1 10
1 Answer
Pesticides in my floor

I have a 23000 sq. ft. ranch built on a slab with in-floor radiant heat and an all-tile floor. The problem is that the mortar (thinset) used has an antifungicide in it, and due to my chemical allergies it has been causing many allergies issues for me.

Besides tearing up all the tiles, are there other solutions that will seal in the antifungicide? For the stuff becomes a vapor and is much activated when it hot and particularly humid.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Anonymous | Jun 9 10
6 Answers
Please help me make an informed decision on how to construct and insulate my addition’s walls.

I am adding onto my home here in south Louisiana (25 miles west of New Orleans) and am also retrofitting the existing structure. The original structure is a 2x4 wall with blackboard sheathing on the outside between the bricks. I would like to remove the entire outside envelope (not 2x4's), spray the stud bays w/ closed-cell foam, then cover that with 1/2" foam board, then 3/4" plywood, housewrap, 1/2" foam board and James Hardie lap siding.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Blake Yokum | Jun 8 10
13 Answers
New Ridge vent system

Does anyone have any experience with the new Greenward Ridge Vent system? It basically uses Pex tubing in a continuous rolled ridge vent to preheat domestic hot water. Interesting.

http://www.nuenergyalternatives.com/

In Green products and materials | Asked By Jon Wyman | Jun 4 10
16 Answers
How do I prevent winter window condensation on garage windows?

Data: The garage is unheated, uninsulated. The apartment above is both heated and insulated. The stairway from the garage to the apartment is insulated but not heated. There is a gasketed, self-closing door between the garage and the stairway. The Whisperlite fan in the garage is on a motion sensor and turns on when a car enters. The fan delay is set to maximum and stays on for about 20 minutes. The windows are are on the north and west elevations. They are fiberglass, and there is no low e or argon in these unheated locations. It's been two years since construction, so the slab has cured.

In General questions | Asked By Lydia Marshall | Jun 8 10
6 Answers
Adding external rigid foam: What to do about existing brick cladding?

I have an existing house in a mixed-humid climate (Delaware). The house has 2x4 batt insulated walls with exterior 1 inch EPS.

I want to add about 4 inches of exterior rigid foam all around and re-side. I have read about REMOTE and PERSIST and the 1/3 rule.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Dan | Jun 9 10
6 Answers
Calculating the effects of humidity on winter time design heat load seems a bit elusive.

It isn't hard to calculate the amount of water vapor that is flushed out of a house each hour, using inside and outside air moisture content, ACH, and house volume. If inside RH is to remain constant at say a healthy 30-40%, then a certain amount of moisture must be added to the air.

In a tight house, with HRV for controlling air makeup rate, normal human activity requires a certain rate to keep humidity down.

In General questions | Asked By Richard Russell | Jun 9 10
5 Answers
Interior mass wall as a thermal collector for radiant heat

I am going to defer to the experts here because I can not find any examples of what a client wants to do, and I do not have an engineering background to talk my out of the current situation.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Joshua Lloyd | Jun 8 10
21 Answers
Cost difference of timberframe vs. traditional construction?

I have an addition planned where we are adding a second story to a ranch. The current estimate for a traditional 2x4 construction is $123,000. I've thought about bringing in a timberframe company to provide an estimate, but don't have any experience with timberframe and do not know what to expect. Would changing to timberframe construction necessitate an increase in budget?

In General questions | Asked By Jim N | May 18 10
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