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3 Answers

1926 House- Windows & Walls

I have a 1926 house in Northern California. The exterior walls are 4" clay block- unfilled- 1" exterior stucco and 1" Lath and plaster interior. I have a variety of windows ranging from wood double hung, wood casement and metal casement. All single pane. I've looked at replacing them but can't really afford to do that yet I've been thinking about weatherstripping them but am wondering with the low R-Value windows and walls if it would really do any good. Or even if EE windows would really help. I realize it might help some, ROI could be 20 years. Any advice would be appreciated.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jeanne Duvall | Aug 31 13
9 Answers

Winter humidity with wood stove

Good day. We are renovating a horribly built ca. 1992 Cape in southern Indiana, Zone 4. During the winter we rely on our Vermont Castings Encore stove for heat, and love it! Since the indoor humidity drops quite low, sometimes to 10%, we do not vent the shower steam through the ERV so as to add some humidity to the house. There are only two persons, my wife and I, so there is not that much steam, and it quickly spreads through the house.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By John Cleveland | Sep 2 13
0 Answers

Exposed air barrier in garage?

I pulled down some mouse infested fiberglass batts in my mother in laws 2x4 garage walls up in Maine this weekend. They were covered with ploy & no sheetrock. Think I'm going to replace them with roxul batts. She doesn't want to pay for sheetrock, so I'm wondering what my options are for an air barrier. And do I really need one in an unheated space like this?

In General questions | Asked By stephen edge | Sep 3 13
7 Answers

Venting and insulation for cathedral ceilings

We're in Hamilton, Ontario, trying to insulate our attic which has cathedral ceilings. Previous owners had more or less shoved R12-R20 fiberglass insulation and vapour-barrier, with no airflow. We recently had our roof done, shingles straight on the original, nearly century old boards. Our roofer cut out a ridge vent for us, but later on we came to the realization, that there is parged or plastered brick all around the perimeter of the attic floor, probably there for "insulation", old school...

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Cem Zafir | Sep 2 13
3 Answers

Sloppy SIPs?

I'm building a house in Maine and a regional contractor specializing in SIPs for decades erected the shell for me with jumbo Insulspan EPS panels, which seem like a nice product. I have no experience with SIPs, and I'm looking for advice about two aspects of the job:
-- Some sections of the exterior OSB hang as much as 7/16" off the plate below it; others float a quarter inch above the plate inside and out. What's a reasonable degree of misalignment for SIPs?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Mark McCain | Aug 30 13
3 Answers

Best way to insulate the wall between an attached garage and the house?

Hi Everyone,

Just finished wrapping my house in 1 inch foil faced tuff-R polyiso during my siding update and now have the last exterior wall left - the shared wall between the garage.

I took down the old sheetrock (not to code thickness anyways) and took out the old batts. The only thing left is the interior sheetrock. The house was built in the early 70's so no vapor barrier. What is best option to insulate this space? I'm struggling between these two.

- Roxul in the stud bays. Place polyiso sheets over the studs and then firecode sheetrock over that.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Paul Krsiak | Sep 3 13
2 Answers

Cutting down an exterior door

OK...I desire a door that is energy efficient but trying to save money too. This door is will replace the old 3/4" wood door that leads out onto the deck outside our bedroom.

The problem is the door is only 71" tall and there isn't room for much more than that...maybe a couple inches max. The current door is 28" wide and I have room to go a bit wider.

In General questions | Asked By Geoffrey Cook | Sep 2 13
4 Answers

ARXX ICF versus Durisol ICF in a Mixed Humid Climate?

I'm trying to evaluate the pros and cons of using ARXX ICF versus Durisol ICF in a mixed humid climate. I've used ARXX here in North Carolina and definitely like the system. I'm considering Durisol because I would like to direct-apply a stucco finish. I'm familiar with a Durisol - type system built in a cold dry climate (Innsbruck) and it seems ideal still many years later. However, i have heard concerns about moisture in the wall assembly as well as thermal bridging in the Durisol product. I'm grateful for any help...

In Green products and materials | Asked By Randall Lanou | Feb 24 11
2 Answers

Has anyone tried Roxul Safe N Sound (or similar) for soundproofing?

I wanted to use Green Glue and double drywall between my floor trusses to add mass and reduce sound transmission between floors. But 24 cases of Green Glue is fairly pricey even before installation labor.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Steven Knapp | Sep 2 13
5 Answers

What island hood should I get?

I have a 30 inch induction cooktop and a 15*20 inch electric grill on a peninsula. The peninsula separates the kitchen from the family room - no wall on that side.

In General questions | Asked By willa fields | Aug 28 13
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