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4 Answers

Air sealing for unvented cathedral ceiling

I am planning a remodel which will add a cathedral ceiling,and there is already an existing cathedral ceiling in another part of my home. Since much of the roof will already be removed this seems like a good time to correctly insulate and air seal.On this site (thank you Martin et.al.) the outer layer of rigid insulation is taped at the seams. On the BuildingScience site (thank you Joe et.al.) the unvented compact roof shows self-sealing membrane over the structural roof deck for an air barrier. Somewhere else I read the suggestion to use tape on the seams of the structural sheathing.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Eric West | Aug 28 13
4 Answers

DC vs. AC lighting, etc.

Hi there,

In General questions | Asked By jonathan nagar | Jan 22 15
9 Answers

Humidity question

I live in southern Ontario (think Buffalo) and moved here last year. The house had a 80% efficient furnace that used indoor air for combustion, the house had 17.68 ACH50, with the majority of the air leakage through the crawlspace (under 1/3 of house) and non existent attic hatch (above 1/3 of the house, above the crawlspace house extension ironically). The indoor humidity last winter was 25-30%, i gave up in trying to raise it.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Alan B | Jan 19 15
2 Answers

Energy savings contributed by windows & appliances

I am deciding to go for a building envelop. Can anyone guide me what could be the possible savings and its contribution to energy efficiency for both building and other appliances?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Rahul Sharma | Jan 23 15
3 Answers

Ever since I got new windows, doors and a vent put in, it is freezing, there is an awful draft

Ever since I got new windows, doors, and a vent put in, it is freezing, there is an awful draft, and even when the fire is lit it is cold. I cannot keep the heat in the house even with the fire and radiators going. There is no heat staying in. I can feel a constant draft blowing all the time.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By jenny sinnott | Jan 23 15
26 Answers

Closed crawlspace with dehumidifier and foundation insulation

I am still in the planning stages of building my new house. I would like a closed crawlspace (I'm in a mixed humid climate) with a dehumidifier and foundation wall insulation. See page 35 (which is actually page 41 on the pdf page counter) http://www.advancedenergy.org/portal/crawl_spaces/pdfs/Closed%20Crawl%20... for a sample design of what I'm going with. I have two main questions about this design choice:

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Michael Geoghegan | Oct 27 14
1 Answer

Wood stove — outside air necessary?

HI,
I'm buying a used woodstove and replacing the earth stove I have now. The present stove has a pipe from the bottom of the stove that goes through the floor to draw in outside air. The new stove only uses indoor air...a coonara.

I live in a mobile home that is OLD 1973 but mobile home standards (not by my lifespan but hey...)

Please let me know if you think I MUST have outside air to be healthy and safe?

Thanks,
Path

In General questions | Asked By path star | Jan 22 15
19 Answers

Can brick/stone veneer coexist with double wall construction?

Before I started reading articles here on double walls and dew point issues in the OSB/Plywood sheathing I had intended the following wall construction on a 10" foundation (4" ledge + 6" concrete) wall - 3" stone veneer, 1" drainage plane, Tyvek, plywood sheathing, 2x6 load bearing wall, 2" inch XPS layer, 2x4 interior non-load bearing wall, drywall. Forget all that now.

Clearly that plan was a disaster waiting to happen in that the sheathing would run afoul of the guidelines regarding proportion of exterior insulation with respect to insulation inboard of the sheathing.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Alex House | Jan 9 15
0 Answers

Mud sill seal

In the FH article about air sealing a mud sill they used a EPDM product. The mud sill was 2x6 but it looked like they used the gasket intended for 2x4 material. I believe the product is available in both 2x6 and 2x4 widths and was wondering why the intended product was not used. If the 2x4 gasket is acceptable it would save some $.
Thanks.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Robert Brown | Jan 22 15
0 Answers

curious about anyones experience with zip system liquid flash

I'd like consider this with my zip project, just seems to me a liquid applied sealant like this would be less vulnerable to any long term failure (possibly with tape). I know martin did a tape test some ago, but again i have had quite a bit of hands on with the tape and im not all the way there that its a 30 year product. Im also curious whether or not there is a primer option that might insure optimum adhesion.

In General questions | Asked By kevin freeman | Jan 22 15
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