Q&A: A Forum for Green Building Experts and Beginners

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

The usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration:
Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments."
Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!

3 Answers

I was told that my central AC needs a larger return duct. The symptom was that the low pressure line at the compressor was icing up on the outside. Does this make sense? I had thought that if the system was low on freon that this was a symptom.

I am handy but need some input into the size requirements of a return duct versus the output ducts. I would assume them to be about the same size.

In Mechanicals | Asked By john friede | May 13 13
6 Answers

Two weeks ago, We had Sealection 500 sprayed in wall cavities and under roof decking (metal roof) for our new home build. The smell seemed minor by 2 days after, then the ingition barrier - Blazelok IB4 was sprayed on entire roof deck. One week later, the smell is as bad a the day they sprayed the Blazelok IB4. Cure rate is 2-3 hrs so something seems wrong.
The chemical smell burns your eyes and nose, I can taste a metallic taste on my tongue and get dizzy after entering the home if any windows are closed.

In General questions | Asked By k s | Feb 25 11
2 Answers

Our long-term plan is to add a deck/pergola/conservatory on top of a one-story room on our mostly two story house in Zone 5a. BUT, the roof on the single story leaks and will be unshingled/re-shingled NOW. We'll use this opportunity to remove decking of the flat part of the roof (it angles from the flat part down to the three walls), access the inaccessible attic, and air seal/insulate before re-shingling.

In General questions | Asked By Gordon B | May 13 13
12 Answers

We are building a house in Quebec province, Canada — so very cold winters and hot / sometimes humid summers. We were set on installing fiberglass windows triple / double panes according to exposure of lot (mainly southern and eastern with a little western and very little northern.)

In Green products and materials | Asked By Tango B* | Jan 22 12
36 Answers

I’d like to get some feedback on a new type of basement construction I came across recently.

In General questions | Asked By D C | Apr 23 13
7 Answers

I'm considering using rigid foam on the exterior of my roof. Cost is of course a big concern with this approach. I'm found sites online that sell recycled rigid foam. Apparently, it is often recovered from commercial buildings and shipping containers.

I read one post on the site that caution against using foam that had been degrade during freeze/thaw cycles. Are there any other issues to look out for? Have anyone tried the "recycled" approach? Is there a reputable source for material? Any lessons learned you folks could share would be greatly appreciated.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Steven Knapp | May 10 13
4 Answers

There was an article on this site about the failure of a Belgian PassivHaus that rendered it uninhabitable due to poor indoor air quality. The previous page address now says 'access denied' or has been removed over the past couple of days - can anyone point me in the direction of further information?

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/belgian-passivhau...

In PassivHaus | Asked By richard asbury | May 14 13
3 Answers

I'm getting quotes from contractors right now to insulate a small cottage with an unvented cathedral ceiling using 2x10s. I'm in zone 3C.

One contractor has suggested spraying 5.5" of open-cell foam between the rafters and calling it a day. I asked if we could just fill the entire 9.5" cavity and he said, "You achieve maximum efficiency @5.5. Any more is overkill. It will expand a couple more inches as we will not cut it but leave the excess."

Code requires R-30 for ceilings around here.

I may be wrong but doesn't more insulation mean higher R-value?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Nicholas Jensen | May 13 13
3 Answers

I'm quite drawn to the Zip System R sheathing for reasons of installation, cost, and ability to install cedar shingles without horizontal strapping every 5". Unfortunately, based on the many blogs and discussions from this site, it seems that even the thickest Zip R product (1" polyiso) is insufficient exterior foam sheathing for climate zone 6a, given our preferred wall system (2X6, dense packed cellulose).

In General questions | Asked By Mike McKernan | May 13 13
13 Answers

I'm trying to decide which product to use for my interior air barrier. I'm constructing a double stud wall system and intend on placing my interior air barrier on the outside of my inside stud wall. My choices are..

- Certainteed's Membrain
- Siga Majpell 5
- ProClima Intello +
- ProClima DB+

In Green products and materials | Asked By Brian Beaulieu | May 3 13
Register for a free account and join the conversation


Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!