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2 Answers

What is the safest (healthwise) roller blind I can buy?

What materials would it be made of. I can find one made of linen but with an acrylic foam backing.

In Interior design | Asked By Angela Weber | Apr 29 16
2 Answers

In process of utilizing 5/8" fiberglass shell for a small building

Is wrapping in EPS or XPS advisable; should foil surface (vapor barrier) face inward to building or outward to ambient? Is Ceramic Paint a viable alternative since Fiberglass Shell is a homogeneous structure. Electrical and plumbing to be installed on interior side of shell. if so referral to independent (i.e ASTM) applicable studies is appreciated...Thank you, Tim

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Tim Boyle | Apr 27 16
8 Answers

Insulating exterior wall where it meets partition wall

NH here.

I was planning on using rigid foam insulation in a stud bay where a partition wall for a shower begins.

The rest of the bays use un-faced fiberglass batts and a plastic sheeting as a vapor barrier.

The exterior wall is OSB.

I want to go with the rigid foam because I feel it will be easier to piece around the framing I am adding in the bay to support the partition wall - going above and beyond to make sure there is no movement (in aspects I can control) given that the wall will be tiled.

In General questions | Asked By Sam Smith | Apr 9 16
7 Answers

Does PVC really offgas sufficiently to be a concern for ventilation returns?

Just wondering...does PVC pipe really off gas sufficiently to be a concern in the supply air returns of HRV/ERVs?

In General questions | Asked By Eric Mikkelsen | Apr 28 16
2 Answers

Best adhesive for Visqueen lapped to concrete block?

Looking for an adhesive to stick my 6 mil visqueen vapor barrier to the concrete block stem wall. I want to lap the visqueen up about 6 inches. I have tried duct mastic which sticks well to the block but readily peels from the visqueen. Something other than Tremco?

In General questions | Asked By Robert Holland | Apr 28 16
3 Answers

Hot water to toilet

Hi, I had this idea that I could purposely run the hot water to the toilets in the home to help heat the small bathrooms which by design have no supplemental heat source except a ceiling heat lamp on a timer. The homes are 900 sq.ft single heat source via direct vent gas wall heater (Rinai). My question is why not use a bit of hot water to heat up the toilet and create some extra heat for the bathroom and make a nice warm seat.

In General questions | Asked By MURRAY bANTING | Apr 28 16
2 Answers

Ways to cool in Hawaii

Hello, I'm in a zone-1 area, specifically, the Leeward side (hot dry!) of Oahu. My house was built in the 80's, has minimal to no insulation and none in the attic, and only has window-unit AC (mounted in the wall). I prefer not to use the AC when at all possible, but as the summer comes on, it ends up getting hotter inside than outside with a breeze despite having the windows and garage open.

In General questions | Asked By Josh Lavender | Apr 28 16
44 Answers

Inexpensive exterior insulation stand-off — Critiques?

I am trying to come up with some inexpensive, and sensible details to accommodate a 6" layer of exterior Roxul Comfortboard IS comprised of two layers of 3", 2' x 4' batts. See attached PDF for details. My concern is that with such a substantial thickness of Comfortboard, the potential for faster "sag" through this, or durability issues during seismic events is problematic. On many of our projects, we have screwed our vertical cedar 1x3 rain screen material directly through a single, thinner layer of the Comfortboard directly into the framing.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Burke Stoller | Apr 19 16
7 Answers

Why do I feel cold on my right side when I sit near my new windows?

I got triple-glazed windows installed, but I seem to feel cold on my right side of my leg sitting next to the new windows. Everything seems to be sealed.

Can someone give me a explanation, please?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Scott Brady | Apr 25 16
17 Answers

What's the payback?

I read here over and over again the recommendation that a house should be built tight and ventilated. The house should also have insulation levels over what is required and what is typically done. I'm good with that if it makes sense. I'm sure someone has done some studies in various climates and calculated the savings and the simple (or not so simple) payback for the upgrades, but I'm not finding it. What makes sense?

My case, climate zone 5, new 2000 SF home, cheap natural gas. No AC. Colorado, lots of sun. Conservative habits, turn off lights, keep tstat low.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Brad Haack | Apr 24 16
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