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4 Answers

Metal roof on SIPs

I'm planning to build a home out of SIPs. I have concerns about the roof though. I want to go with a metal roof and I've read a lot about condensation. Most of the issues appear to be caused by improper sealing and air escaping from the interior. Would normal sealing procedures with High quality tape on the interior be enough to mitigate this issue. Other wise, would a cold roof be necessary? I don't know if I want that expense.

Thanks
Jordan

In General questions | Asked By Jordan Garrow | Oct 15 15
3 Answers

Room above a garage

I have a room above a garage that I am turning into a bedroom 12/12 roof pitch Cape. The plan is mineral wool cavity insulation R-23 walls, Pro Clima Intello , 2 1/2" service cavity with r-10 rigid mineral wool.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Scott Goodman | Oct 14 15
1 Answer

Should I reseal the basement walls prior to installing rigid foam?

Hi everyone, I'm planning on installing 2" of Dow Thermax rigid foam on the interior walls of my basement and the wall that is against living space in the garage. I got inspired by Marc Rosenbaums article on his installation. The walls were previously sealed by another homeowner. Should I clean them up and apply another coat of waterproofer or can I install the foam over the walls the way they are? Thanks in advance for any info.

In General questions | Asked By Ben Payne | Oct 14 15
3 Answers

Detached garage in the Pacific Northwest - Insulation recommenations?

I am considering insulating my detached garage design to protect it from mold and to keep the temperature a little more even for storage. It will not be heated. What roof insulation/barriers do you recommend for a plywood substrate and metal roof? Also, what do you recommend for the walls. As I am not heating, I was thinking of not going to current code with R-values. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Amy DiMarco | Oct 14 15
5 Answers

Is natural slate tile worth the price?

My wife and I are looking at a product called CUPA Slate we found here http://www.abedward.com/cupa-natural-slate/

We were wondering if natural slate is worth the upgrade to say "fake slate". Also does natural slate fade with time? Any help would be great!

In General questions | Asked By Tom Seilheimer | Oct 14 15
4 Answers

Heat pump for frost protection in an unoccupied house?

We have a vacation home that gets only very occasional use in the winter. Currently, the only source of heat there is a Rinnai 560 WTA propane heater, which we set to 42F when we are not in the house. This has worked to keep the water pipes from freezing, but propane bills can run quite high.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Irene Heim | Oct 14 15
2 Answers

Catheralized attic insulation upgrades

I have a new energy star rated home, HERS score of 60. The builder installed blown in cellulose insulation into a netting at the underside of the tile roof. (R-22) This is a non vented attic with Cathedralized attic insulation. The home is located in a Phoenix suburb. Is there a way to upgrade the insulation? Can I add spray form over the top of the cellulose and the wood trusses to stop thermal bridging? Can have insulation added to the attic floor?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Scott Kutylowski | Oct 14 15
4 Answers

Geothermal Hyperloop

I've read about geothermal on this site and understand the downsides of the incredibly high installation costs. However, I just recently came across some info on hyperloops - which are supposed to take up much less space than conventional horizontal closed loop systems. Has anyone had any experience with one of these systems? Do they offer any significant break in terms of lower install costs? Are they more fragile or any less dependable or efficient? Here's a video I found that describes what it is:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6WGEn45ugjs

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Brian W | Oct 13 15
1 Answer

Can I put rigid insulation under patio pavers, and should I have a permeable system right against the house?

I am considering replacing the patio outside my walk out basement of my 1959 house in northeast Ohio (zone 5). I would like to put rigid insulation under the new patio to help keep the uninsulated floor slab inside the house a little warmer, similar to a frost protected foundation. In a perfect world I would also like to have the new patio be permeable to minimize rain water runoff. However I ran across a publication from the state of Minnesota that recommends a minimum distance between a permeable pavement installation and a building foundation. So I have several questions:

In Green building techniques | Asked By Hallie Bowie | Oct 13 15
1 Answer

Attached garage wall detail 2x6 vs 2x4

Building a house next Spring in Northern IL (climate zone 5). We are using 2x6 wall construction and hoping to do 2" of XPS on exterior.

We got our plans back and they show 2x6's on the perimeter for the house and attached garage, 2x4's interior.

The one wall I was wondering about was the wall between the attached garage and the house. The plan shows this wall as a 2x4.

Is there any reason this wall shouldn't be 2x6?

Do I insulate this wall as I would an exterior wall with 2" of XPS on the garage side?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Adam Peterson | Oct 13 15
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