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6 Answers

Basement Finishing

I am building a new home in zone 4, Shelbyville, Kentucky. This is my house plan:
http://houseplans.co/house-plans/1236/

In General questions | Asked By Aron Robinson | Nov 6 12
15 Answers

Housewraps, cedar siding and moisture on interior of exterior wall

We built a Timberframe home in 2002. This past winter we noticed that we had moisture on the inside of our exterior sheeting. I have read many articles and have received a lot of opinions. However, depending on who I talk with, the answers are different. 1) We put cedar siding over Dow weathermate housewrap without a rainscreen. This seems to be the majority of the problem. 2) one solution was to remove the siding and put 1 1/2 rigid foam insulation, a rainscreen and then the siding. The idea here is to move the duepoint away from the walls.

In General questions | Asked By Tom Wilson | Oct 8 12
9 Answers

Mixing cellulose insulation and whole-house fan

Had 6" blown cellulose added to our small 440-sf attic in spring 2010 (entire upstairs is 900 sf and balance of area beyond 440 sf is cathedral ceiling) ... The contractor installed a rigid insulation dam around the small whole-house fan (Tamarack 1600 Gold with 1150 cfm on low speed, we only use low and never high due to fan noise) ...

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Bruce Sanford | Nov 6 12
2 Answers

Gaulhofer windows

We are window shopping, so to speak, and are leaning toward buying Gaulhofer windows. Does anyone have experience with this type of window? We are also interested in Thermotech and Fibertech, and they offer some great options for low iron, low u-value windows. Any opinions on which window YOU would purchase (and why) would be appreciated!

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By jessie pratt | Nov 7 12
10 Answers

Are the minutiae of energy performance in single family homes the right answer to the wrong question?

We give a lot of attention here on GBA to what we build. Do we need to be thinking much more about WHERE we build?
http://www.salon.com/2012/11/03/stop_climate_change_move_to_the_city_sta...

In General questions | Asked By James Morgan | Nov 4 12
3 Answers

Closed-cell spray foam in new commercial construction

Hi. I would appreciate some input on the wall and roof assembly of a new commercial building in the Buffalo, NY area (climate zone 5). The building is a simple 24'x40' box with 10/12 gable roof.

Code requires R-38 for the roof and R-13 (wall cavity) plus R-3.8 continuous for the wall.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Tobias Westermann | Nov 5 12
13 Answers

Foam sandwich concerns

I suspect I know the answer to this already, but it bears exploring as the "risk" will impact my wall design for the future house.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Kent Jeffery | Nov 4 12
3 Answers

Best way to vent (or unvent) roof?

I am looking for suggestions on how to handle insulating this roof. The main problem is that where there are gables, there aren't any eaves for venting. The house is in Zone 6, I am looking to get R100 by insulating the rafter plane with dense pack cellulose. Am I better trying to build out a channel from an open eave to create venting or going unvented by fitting 5" of foam in the upper roof and finishing with cellulose. Neither idea seams great and spray foam would be very costly.

Pictures:

https://picasaweb.google.com/100264534486477190801/RoofVenting

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Brian Van Handel | Nov 4 12
3 Answers

Need help deciding where to install Panasonic FV-04VE1 ERV in new house

Need help deciding where to install Panasonic FV-04VE1 ERV in new house. ~1650 sq ft. open living room/dining/kitchen. Also plan on installing a second Panasonic ERV in the basement but that is easier. Any help deciding where to install my main floor ERV would be much appreciated. Floor plan attached. Thanks.

In General questions | Asked By Patrick Schoolen | Nov 5 12
2 Answers

Looking for siding contractor in western Mass./Connecticut Valley

Our house, built in the early 1970s, has some rot in and under the siding on the north side, a gable end. A contractor recommends removing all the clapboards on that side, then removing and replacing all the plywood sheathing. I asked if we could improve on the insulation when the wall was opened up, but he said no, we can only replace what’s there. (The house has ordinary frame construction and fiberglass insulation – I believe it’s about R-11, but I can’t find a record.)

In General questions | Asked By Patricia Appelbaum | Nov 5 12
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