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2 Answers

I am planning a lake home in the mountains, elevation 3000 feet. I will not be living there full time and am looking for a tight envelope. I want a logical approach that will balance cost with results. Builder is on the old fashioned side. Thanks

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Timothy Guy | Dec 6 11
4 Answers

I called on a potential client today in climate zone 5 (Northern Ohio). He built his home 20+ years ago with double studded walls, fiberglass insulation and a passive solar design. The home is approximately 1800 sq ft on two floors. The main heat source is an in-floor radiant system installed in the floor of the lower level. There is no heat on the second floor. What struck me was the beautiful simplicity of the radiant system. There are four loops of 3/8" pex installed in aluminum covered plywood panels with additional plywood and a hardwood floor on top.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Torsten Hansen | Dec 5 11
115 Answers

Has anyone out there designed / built a thermally isolated double-stud wall AND used the airtight sheathing approach in a TWO-STORY residential project?

I'm thinking of the two-story, rectangular box as the thermal envelope. It gets wrapped on all five sides with plywood sheathing, which acts as the primary air barrier. Then it gets capped with an unoccupied, fully vented, stick built roof. Make sense?

Now, combine that concept with a curtain wall---to eliminate the thermal bridges in the framing. That's the idea anyway.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Daniel Ernst | Nov 16 10
1 Answer

I mean how to create them with what it could be done?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Monyvathna CHHENG | Dec 6 11
11 Answers

I know this has been covered before, but can not recover the threads after several searches.
I have a project that is in the rough in stage and is nearing completion. We want to do a blower door test prior to insulation and drywalling, however am debating the best way to seal the attic space. It is an unconditioned, vented wood truss attic. It will get 2 layers of 5/8" eventually for fire code reasons.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jesse Lizer | Dec 3 11
1 Answer

My wife and I own a 2 story home that has a partial 1 story with the rest 2 story and both share the same attic space. I live in the midlands of South Carolina which has very hot and humid summers and winter low averages of around high 20's to low 30's. I am interested in adding foam spray to the underside of my roof to prevent heat loss/gain through the roof to the attic. I have had 2 contractors come in to give me a quote and told me how they install the foam.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Greg Davis | Dec 5 11
2 Answers

I'm going to insulate a small amount of attic floor with rigid foam. The joists are 2x6 @ 24" O.C. Plan is to install 5-1/2" between the joists and then another 2" over, followed by 3/4" plywood. The area is used for storage and the plywood surface will get occasional foot traffic. I want to use polyiso for this but I'm concerned about crushing at the joists. I could install a layer of plywood over the joists, then more foam, then more plywood. but would like to avoid that if I can. I've only installed polyiso in walls and have little sense of its crush resistance. Any comments?

In General questions | Asked By David Meiland | Dec 5 11
8 Answers
In Green building techniques | Asked By Chris Gregson | Nov 21 11
1 Answer

I am starting a new business and would like to make the edifice all solar. So my questions are 1. how much will it cost if the building size is 13 stories high and 3 city blocks wide? 2. how much time would it take to build. 3. are there any special permits needed. 4. how many people would be needed on a project such as this. Thanks for your time. I look forward to hearing from you.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Joanne Washington | Dec 5 11
1 Answer

Is this the most environmentally sound exterior finish for wood siding? This short video explains the process of finishing wood cladding with an all-solids (solvent-free) natural linseed oil paint. Linseed paint aficionados say this paint is more durable than any modern plastic resin paint, and a perfectly wholesome non-toxic substance. Here's a catch: this paint is very expensive and evidently only available as an export from Sweden.

Here are some things you might want to know (about paint):

In Green products and materials | Asked By TJ Elder | Dec 5 11
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