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8 Answers

Passivhaus question: Do hardwood floors contract and gap in winter as noticeably as they do in a conventionally-built house?

My husband and I are building a Passivhaus in Vermont and want to install hardwood floors. I'm tempted by pre-finished flooring, since we wouldn't have to go through the mess and expense of sanding and finishing on-site. But I hate the little dirt-strips that inevitably form in the micro-beveled edges.

In PassivHaus | Asked By Andrea Lemon | Dec 6 11
5 Answers

I've been reading a lot about the importance of having a rain screen/venting behind clapboards. I seen the product Home Slicker, but also know that you can doing furring strips too. If I choose to use furring strips, would it be wise to use a product that would not rot? Such as some sort of pressure treated wood, or a plastic of some sort? If so, what would you suggest?


In General questions | Asked By Holly Ward | Dec 6 11
3 Answers

I have a 1950's ranch style house with what appears to be a botched insulation job in which fiberglass was blown in the walls. During some renovation work a couple years ago I discovered that the 4inch wall cavities were only filled to about 40-50%. I would like to redo the insulation with something that I know will fill in the entire wall cavities. I once considered airkrete, but have been unable to find an installer in our area (Kalamazoo, MI).

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jay Hoinville | Dec 6 11
5 Answers

Hi, I'm considering putting an ERV in a home in the Carolinas (hot humid in summers, occasional cold in winter). This has been a great site for info, but I had a couple of questions:

In General questions | Asked By Brian Jackson | Dec 5 11
2 Answers

I am planning a lake home in the mountains, elevation 3000 feet. I will not be living there full time and am looking for a tight envelope. I want a logical approach that will balance cost with results. Builder is on the old fashioned side. Thanks

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Timothy Guy | Dec 6 11
4 Answers

I called on a potential client today in climate zone 5 (Northern Ohio). He built his home 20+ years ago with double studded walls, fiberglass insulation and a passive solar design. The home is approximately 1800 sq ft on two floors. The main heat source is an in-floor radiant system installed in the floor of the lower level. There is no heat on the second floor. What struck me was the beautiful simplicity of the radiant system. There are four loops of 3/8" pex installed in aluminum covered plywood panels with additional plywood and a hardwood floor on top.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Torsten Hansen | Dec 5 11
115 Answers

Has anyone out there designed / built a thermally isolated double-stud wall AND used the airtight sheathing approach in a TWO-STORY residential project?

I'm thinking of the two-story, rectangular box as the thermal envelope. It gets wrapped on all five sides with plywood sheathing, which acts as the primary air barrier. Then it gets capped with an unoccupied, fully vented, stick built roof. Make sense?

Now, combine that concept with a curtain wall---to eliminate the thermal bridges in the framing. That's the idea anyway.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Daniel Ernst | Nov 16 10
1 Answer

I mean how to create them with what it could be done?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Monyvathna CHHENG | Dec 6 11
11 Answers

I know this has been covered before, but can not recover the threads after several searches.
I have a project that is in the rough in stage and is nearing completion. We want to do a blower door test prior to insulation and drywalling, however am debating the best way to seal the attic space. It is an unconditioned, vented wood truss attic. It will get 2 layers of 5/8" eventually for fire code reasons.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jesse Lizer | Dec 3 11
1 Answer

My wife and I own a 2 story home that has a partial 1 story with the rest 2 story and both share the same attic space. I live in the midlands of South Carolina which has very hot and humid summers and winter low averages of around high 20's to low 30's. I am interested in adding foam spray to the underside of my roof to prevent heat loss/gain through the roof to the attic. I have had 2 contractors come in to give me a quote and told me how they install the foam.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Greg Davis | Dec 5 11
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