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2 Answers
If you use foam insulation over wall sheathing, do you still need the building wrap?

If you house is continuously sheathed and then wrapped with 1" of foam insulation, with the joints sealed, do you still need the building wrap over the OSB?

In Green building techniques | Asked By shaun majors | May 17 10
6 Answers
Will a wall furnace meet the energy code if heating many rooms?

A mechanical contractor suggests heating a 1,000 sq. ft. 3-bedroom condo with a wall furnace installed in the main room. The heat will be transferred to other rooms by the installation of through-the-wall fans. There will be one thermostat on the furnace. Will this meet any kind of energy code? This is in Massachusetts.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By joe | Mar 13 10
10 Answers
Polyisocyanurate foam retrofit and rainscreen

I have a question about a job I am starting in Amherst, MA. and I would like to hear others chime in about it. This is a whole house exterior renovation (built in 1982) The owner's want to insulate and install new windows and siding.

Existing wall from inside to outside: 1/2" drywall, 1" polyiso., 2x6's 16" oc w/ fiberglass batt insul, 1/2" asphalt coated 'Beaverboard' sheathing(OSB on corners), Tyvek ( which has deterriorated) and 1x cedar vertical siding.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By John Hondrogen | May 10 10
12 Answers
Where is the best place to put a carbon monoxide detector in a home?

I was told that they should be placed really low because carbon monoxide is heavier than air.

In General questions | Asked By ronald miller | May 9 10
4 Answers
Is this wall system adequate for Zone 6a — maritime climate?

I would like to build a garage with 2"x6"x 10' studs. From exterior to interior: 3/8" ply siding, 3/8" gap, Tyvek wrap, 1" EPS board, 2"x6" studs, 4" EPS fitted between studs, 6-mil vapor barrier (called for by code), then drywall.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By James | May 13 10
2 Answers
Best insulation upgrade choices?

I am going to replace some siding on the outside wall of my kitchen, Laundry room, and Family room. This is old fiber board siding. The house was built in 1984 and is located in the Atlanta area. The house has an unfinished block wall basement. Since I am removing the siding I have an opportunity to reinsulate the walls. We get cold air when we open the kitchen cabinets which back up to this wall and have their own wood backing.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Scott Razzino | May 12 10
1 Answer
Any 100% natural linoleum flooring products other than Forbo ?

Looking for other sources

In Green products and materials | Asked By Paul | May 13 10
1 Answer
What is the best place to install a CO2 detector in a residential building?

I am hearing different opinions on the CO2 detector issue. Some say high near the ceiling, some say low.

In General questions | Asked By chuckie | May 12 10
3 Answers
Which wall cavity insulation should I retrofit into my walls?

I'm interested in hearing what everyone thinks the best type of retrofit insulation is for existing wall cavities. I own a great 1930’s brick home in Oklahoma City. The wall section is pretty typical of the era: 2-3/8" brick exterior, approx. 1" air space (I consider it to be unventilated, but there are places in the attic the open top of the wall is exposed), tar paper, 3/4" solid wood plank sheathing, empty 2x4 cavity, and lath and plaster interior finish. While I love my house, a deep retrofit is completely out of the question for both cost and personal sanity reasons.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Brad Buser | May 12 10
0 Answers
I'm a writer working on a feature article about the market value of energy improvements to residential properties.

I'm looking for specific numbers.
What energy improvements do buyers value, and how much do they value them relative to their cost?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.

In General questions | Asked By Joyce Finn | May 12 10
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