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2 Answers

Re-siding and need to re-insulate but need advice

Hello,

I live in a 47 year old ranch house in Southern Maine (climate zone 6).

I plan to re-side the house in the spring and would like to improve the insulation while I have the siding off. I would especially like to improve the front of the house and air seal it well as the front faces North.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Brett Cragg | Dec 30 12
9 Answers

Normatherm KKH20 / Passivhaus Boiler Stove

I just stumbled across some information about the Normatherm KKH20 Passivhaus Boiler Stove and am curious if anyone in here is personally familiar with them.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Litawyn Eco-Cottage | Mar 8 12
9 Answers

Normatherm KKH20 / Passivhaus Boiler Stove

I just stumbled across some information about the Normatherm KKH20 Passivhaus Boiler Stove and am curious if anyone in here is personally familiar with them.

In PassivHaus | Asked By Litawyn Eco-Cottage | Mar 8 12
3 Answers

Moisture Barrier

My basement was poured over rigid foam.. I believe it was 3/4" -1' thick. I want to install laminate flooring in one of the basement rooms. Do I still need to install the flooring over a moisture barrier?

Thanks

In Green building techniques | Asked By Philip Thompson | Dec 28 12
8 Answers

Insulated suport for basement walls, how?

Normally a basements walls are restrained against earth pressure by the slab at the bottom and the floor above at the top. Concrete is a miserable insulator! Between the slab and footings high strength XPS (which shouldn't be loaded above 20 PSI to avoid creep issues) appears to be applicable. But around the slab edge there is only a relatively small area (4"slab) a higher strength material is needed. It seems Foamglass doesn't have creep issues and is available in strengths up to 300+ PSI Has anyone used it?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jerry Liebler | Dec 26 12
2 Answers

AC equipment in an unconditioned attic

I have some issues and a possible solution that I am looking for advice.

Live in NJ. A/C system was installed in the attic. This was back in 1999. The house is a split level. A/C trunk line runs in the upper attic, down in an interior closet and across the lower level attic. The lower level was all remodeled in the past year.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By todd sherman | Dec 27 12
4 Answers

How can I narrow down what component of our HVAC system is causing health complaints?

In addition/renovation project in CT, two Carrier high-efficiency forced air heat pump systems were installed. The original heating system (hot water) was completely removed and brand new ducts were installed throughout.

In Mechanicals | Asked By leslie hazen | Dec 27 12
1 Answer

Plumbing, framing, and energy efficiency

Today I was going through some old stuff (the moving van arrives in 9 days), and I came across an article that I cut out of Fine Homebuilding in 1988(!!). It's called, "Framing with the Plumber in Mind," and it talks about planning in order to avoid plumber butchery in floor joists, etc. It occurred to me that lot has happened since 1988, with things like PEX, advances in insulation, penetration sealing, etc., and yet this still is probably something that must be addressed.

In General questions | Asked By Gordon Taylor | Dec 27 12
2 Answers

Windows installation over foam board

Going to be replacing siding and windows and am planning on installing 1" rigid foam board over sheathing. My main question is with installing the windows, can they be installed directly over the foam board or should I picture frame out around the opening? Or I guess the right question would be what is the best way to install over 1" of rigid. Thanks.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Chris Wollberg | Dec 27 12
2 Answers

Condensaton and icing on new E-Star windows

Hello, I have a new house (under 1 year old) that is E-Star compliant with double-glazed thermopane casement windows. Now that the weather has turned colder I am seeing condensation and icing along the bottom of the interior (room) side of most of my windows. The humidity in the house is pretty low. Is this indicative of defective windows, and how can I make a more accurate determination?

Thanks in advance,
Ed

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Edmund Nadolski | Dec 26 12
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