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11 Answers

An urban infill question.

Starting from scratch, if you had a lot across the street from a fire station--beyond (presumably) "windowless," how would you build your north house wall which faces that station?

Since the inverse square law is relevant: when the trucks pull into the street, that siren probably is 10-20 yards away.

Curious to read your responses.

In General questions | Asked By Minneapolis Disaster, 6B | Dec 1 11
13 Answers

I am planning a 15 x 15 foot interior dimension addition with slab on grade foundation, ICF walls , 12 inches of exterior XPS rigid foam and exterior brick veneer. I plan to tape and seal the rigid foam to the ICF but am not sure of the best way to attach the brick veneer.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Tim Ward | Nov 24 11

Some "half-baked" Food for thought...

Table-top (Kitchen) experiments/demonstrations....

Explanation of Diffusion and Osmosis

some cool Molecular Graphics

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By John Brooks | Dec 3 11
4 Answers

We have a flat roof deck above living space, and are building the surface drainage slope up with sleepers, etc., above the plywood deck (with more plywood, and waterproofing above the sloped area). This creates an at-present uninsulated (and unvented) area between the 2 layers of plywood. Should this be insulated?

In Green building techniques | Asked By Elizabeth K Suzuki | Dec 2 11
15 Answers

Check this out... pretty impressive!!!

In General questions | Asked By Armando Cobo | Nov 30 11
8 Answers

We are putting a 2" wide rolled steel curved header in a 2x6 wall. Our thinking is that we need to position this header as close to the inside as possible with as much ISO foam to the outside as possible to prevent condensation on the steel. We've decided to use 2-1/2" of ISO which only gets us R16.25 if my math is correct. This allows us to put 3/4" of wood on the inside of the steel so we have something to fasten interior trim to. There is 1/2" Zipwall exterior sheathing. There is no exterior foam sheathing.

In General questions | Asked By Roger Rood | Dec 1 11
2 Answers

I was talking to a contractor in my area about my siding options and I asked him if when re-siding my house I could add an inch of foam board insulation under the siding. My walls can get pretty cold in the winter months, after all.

He told me that it would be a BAD move and that my house would rot from the inside out due to condensation and moisture building up.

In General questions | Asked By Jason Schaffer | Dec 1 11
3 Answers

The room is located under a covered porch that is enclosed on three sides. Do I need to leave any room for air movement? Should I have a vapor barrier toward the living area even though it is a ceiling?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Faye Isenhour | Dec 1 11
2 Answers

I was thinking of using a vapor barrier installed backwards between the sheet rock and the insulation. Good Idea or bad idea?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By wally dorsey | Dec 1 11
2 Answers

My four story 1880's row house has no insulation between floors. I am unable to drop ceilings or build up floors and I don't need total sound-proofing, but I would like to reduce noise as much as possible by drilling holes in the ceilings and packing insulation between floors. (Thermal savings is just an added plus)
Every contractor recommends a different product -- Green Fiber Cellulose, Insul Safe, air krete, etc. How can I compare these apples and oranges? What should I specify in the bid to the contractor? How much less sound transmission (noise reduction) can I get?

In General questions | Asked By Melanie Arwin | Dec 1 11
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