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5 Answers

My two & half story, frame house, built in 1907 in climate Zone 2A, Gainesville,FL, has NO Insulation..

The entire house is built with 2 1/2 In. T&G long-leaf heart pine except for the novelty siding; a shiplap clapboard. The floor, interior walls and roof sheathing are all the same T&G wood.

In the 70's, 3/8" drywall was applied to the walls. There is no subfloor or sheathing on the exterior walls and the joist and stud spacing ranges between 18 and 21 inches on center.

The one big insulating company here was totally baffled as how to best handle this type on construction.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Keith Kovie | Jul 30 11
3 Answers

Looking for good quantity and quality lighting. I currently rely mainly on halogen bulbs.

My personal experience with CFL's is not very good. Granted that I may not be using the latest and greatest but I personally have problems with the light quality and the bulbs at my house suffer from slow startup.

Should I look at a certain CFL bulb? CFL fixtures?

What about recessed can and track lighting? Best choices?

Fan bulbs? incandescents there?

Is there advantages to low voltage halogen lighting systems? Is LV better or worse than line voltage?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By John Nooncaster | Jul 30 11
4 Answers

I am just about to start construction on a new Lindal home, I am considering a hot roof as the roof is not a truss design but built with 12 inch rafters (22 foot ceilings in areas). I would like to obtain a minimum of R-50 in the roof structure using spray foam.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Bill Hall | Jul 31 11
35 Answers

Hopefully this questions won't be to all encompassing and broad so that it won't make any sense.

I'm trying to build a home in Southern Connecticut to be as energy-efficient and cost-effective as possible. My Dad is a Carpenter / Contractor so we will be doing it ourselves. He has never done anything "green" or energy efficient before, so I have been researching as much as possible to find the most cost-effective and energy-saving way possible.

What I want to do so far:

Home will be Colonial, Gambrel style roof, 36 X 30, no garage.

In Plans Review | Asked By Denis Recchia | Jul 26 11
11 Answers

I am currently having a home built; footings and foundations are in with framing to start soon. In an effort to build an Energy Star home, I've reviewed the details on this site and implemented the concepts into the drawings.

I'm looking for any red flags you might see in the attached details. Thanks!

FYI - The new home will have in-floor heat in the basement via a geothermal system.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By brad dietzenbach | Jul 25 11
3 Answers

We have just completed a new 100-bed nursing home and we are finding air infiltration where there are penetrations (thermostats, electrical junction boxes) of the interior “T Walls” that separate the resident rooms. The exterior of the building was completed as light frame construction using dimensional lumber. The interior walls are metal framed.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jake A | Jul 29 11
4 Answers

I love my ground-source heat pump and my SIPs addition and ERV. My house feels comfy & fresh. I am trying to figure usage numbers.

Fan blower watts?
Climate Master TTV049 two-stage.
Cooling capacity, 50,600 full, 39,600 part load.
Heating capacity 37,500 full, 31,200 part load.
No auxilliary heat strips.
Blower FLA7 AGL20A

And well pump watts used? 3 wells, 400 feet, each 1.2 amp.

Enough already. Where do I go to figure the watt draw on these things?

In Mechanicals | Asked By Rick Jenkins | Jul 28 11
5 Answers

I am looking for for a high-quality, very durable caulk or sealant to use around the interior side of the perimeter of my newly installed windows.

I will be sealing the gap around the perimeter of the windows, which varies from less than 1/4 inch to about 5/8 inch in spots. The bulk of the depth of the gap is already filled with canned low-expansion window/door spray foam, and we would be applying the sealant either to the cured canned foam or to a backer-rod (i.e. foam rod) installed in the gap.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Robert Dickinson | Jul 27 11
2 Answers

I bought my home 10 years ago. The dining room was added to the original home, off of the kitchen. The outside concrete foundation on the dining room portion, outside exterior is starting to dust/crumble off, exposing the chicken wire mesh that was used under the concrete. It looks as though a poor grade of concrete was used, the rest of the house is in excellent shape.

In Project management | Asked By Deborah Stueve | Jul 29 11
3 Answers

I live in zone 2A. I am building a raised home for myself. It has a galvalume roof laid on top 2x4 strapping which is over 3/8-inch sheathing with a radiant barrier underneath.

It is an equal span gable, 8/12, with living upstairs. A ridge vent sits on top of the roof.

I was planning to insulate the roof with foam inside the knee walls up until the ceiling levels out at 9 vertical feet. I figured on the 2" airspace.

I want to use open cell foam with damp spray cellulose. Is this a good system for Louisiana north of Lake Pontchartrain?

In GBA Pro help | Asked By dwight foreman | Jul 28 11
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