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2 Answers

The west side of my home gets freezing in the winter and hot in the summer. (West Chicago)
Thanks for any help,
Jim

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jim Capannari | Nov 29 11
6 Answers

Looking for some helpful advice regarding a currently unvented roof assembly.

The house is about 100 years old -- there was a small 1-story addition done to the rear of the house. The back porch roof was extended to create a rear bedroom and bathroom. We are currently renovating the bathroom, and noticing that this section of the roof is unvented. There are no soffit vents, and no place for a ridge vent as the roof terminates into the side of the house (just below or at the 2nd floor).

In General questions | Asked By Jason Schatz | Nov 28 11
1 Answer

I am working on a home in the warm humid region of the IECC designated zone 3. The finished room over the garage has kneewalls that currently have R-13 kraft-faced fiberglass batt insulation in the stud cavities.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Chris A | Nov 29 11
1 Answer

I am building a new replacement roof to include structure and clay tile roofing. The design has an historic plaster soffit detail that does not appear vent-able.

Is it possible to provide for proper air flow otherwise? I am wanting to give up and just spray foam the bottom of the deck, treating the attic space as conditioned.

Thanks for any advice.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Rachel O'Mara | Nov 29 11
12 Answers

Hello to all -

I'm trying to find a cost-effective solution to insulating the exterior walls of a 1900 vintage 2-1/2 story house. I'm located in Omaha - climate zone 5. I had originally thought that using flash and batt insulation would be an effective way to form an air infiltration barrier and provide an R-value higher than available using 3-1/2 fiberglass batts. However, the cost of 1-1/2" of spray closed cell insulation was a concern.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Richard Ryker | Nov 27 11
3 Answers

First off, I want to say THANK YOU to everyone who contributes to this site. It has been a great resource for me over the last couple of months, and knowing how precious time is, I really appreciate the fact that you spend it here.

In General questions | Asked By Robert W | Oct 24 11
19 Answers

As I look at this assembly, I wonder.... If there's only 6.5ish inches of spray foam under the sloped ceiling, can they really call this an R-60 roof?? And then I think... Does it really matter?

It looks like the peak and knee walls are R-60. What's the loss at this sloped ceiling? Is a sloped ceiling more like a wall than a flat ceiling and thus R-40 is enough? Or maybe I'm just not interpreting their drawing correctly.

In General questions | Asked By stephen edge | Nov 26 11
6 Answers

I asked my builder to use formaldehyde free plywood for walls and he told me that he can't find any formaldehyde free plywood in my area (San Jose). I checked Sunnyvale Lumber and Home Depot and can't find it either.

For roof, he is able to find plywood with radiant barrier instead of OSB with radiant barrier, but it costs a lot more.

Does any one know where I can these building materials around San Jose, CA?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Rian Bart | Nov 22 11
1 Answer

I am considering a radiant barrier application in my attic. I have heard that a radiant barrier is most cost-effective in terms of return on investmentI when ducts are located in the attic. I have already removed my ducts from the attic and relocated them to my basement to improve efficiency. I get a ton of solar gain on my roof year round with very little shade during summer months. I wonder if this condition would make a radiant barrier a good application for my roof even without ductwork in attic.

Does anyone out there have an opionion/experience with a situation like this?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By matt m | Nov 27 11
2 Answers

Portland, Maine. In remodeling I have gutted the interior of a 1950 cape cod.The electrical has been removed and new going in. All boxes will be in interior walls only and there will be no ceiling light fixtures. Two questions. Can I run wires in floor beam spaces (just above 1st floor cieling drywall) both perpendicular and horizontal to the bays and meet code without drilling holes in the floor beams? I have to add CO and fire alarms. Can these be put at the top edge of the wall or do they have to be on the ceiling?

In Building Code Questions | Asked By dean manoogian | Nov 27 11
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