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2 Answers

I live in W Hartford, CT (Zone 5A) and have an attic that needs insulating.
I assume the insulation will need to be in the 2x8 rafters since we have AC
ductwork running thru the attic space and some batt insulation in the attic
floor covered by wood.  We have a new roof with a ridge vent and no vents in
the eaves as the roof has no overhang.  We have had issues with ice dams
given limited insulation in the eaves.

I would appreciate information the best way to solve.  We have been
a- spray foam in rafters (closed cell vs open cell?);

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Chris McGoldrick | Jul 25 11
3 Answers

Would love to get recommendations on good looking and "green" fence options - that does not look fake. So far our landscaper is pushing a wood fence but not looking forward to re-staining it and having to replace it in 15 yrs. Thank you!

In Green products and materials | Asked By Karen Miller | Jul 25 11
4 Answers

Climate zone 4-

Goals Conditioned attic
R-50 from Foam and dense pack cellulose

Construction -- Roof trusses 24" OC

Installation preparation--

I will be adding an extra 2X4 in the truss at the necessary depth to provide a nailing surface for the Insulweb.

Can I do this at every other truss if I'm using strapping?
Do I need cross strapping perpendicular to truss chords? What spacing? 1X or 2X?

Any benefit in this particular application as to either CC or open cell foam?


In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By John Nooncaster | Jul 24 11
2 Answers

I heard on the news that the royal couple are moving into a Not-So-Big Cottage.
And that the duchess plans to improve the indoor air quality with $1,500 designer air fresheners and candles.
"She felt [Kensington] had an overriding musty, damp smell, and ordered a six-month supply of her favorite products to override this"

In Green building techniques | Asked By John Brooks | Jul 24 11
6 Answers

Zone 8. Double stud wall, 18" wide, floating slab on grade. One story house, 41' clear span. One wall design I'm considering has the load bearing wall as the outer wall, which sits atop the foundation wall. The inner wall will catch the slab by 2". The air barrier (1/2" ply) on the outside of the inner wall will be continuous with that in the lid (nailing the plywood to the trusses, taping/gooing, as Thorsten Chlupp does). See pic. I have 2 questions about such a wall. (1) Is truss uplift likely to be a problem by breaking the air barrier formed by the CDX on the outside of the inner wall?

In Mechanicals | Asked By John Klingel | Jul 19 11
0 Answers

I would like to do a good job air sealing with caulk and canned foam my currently-exposed wall stud bays prior to installing dense-packed cellulose with InsulWeb. This is a residential renovation project in the 4a zone. I built out majority of the walls in house to a double stud wall with a 7" clear-cavity depth. Walls in baths and closets remained the traditional "single stud" 2x4" due to space constraints.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Val Orekhov | Jul 24 11
2 Answers

When the roofers tore off our roof, the furnace in our attic and the attic did not get covered properly. Point being there was 100 year old shingles (2 layers of wood shake and 3 layers of asphalt), wood , dust and who knows what else and what kind of shingles they were. When the debris was cleaned out by my husband he looked black as night from the asphalt dust.When I turned on our ac , a horrible smell came through the vents and we had to turn it off and air out the upstairs.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Misty Wayne | Jul 24 11
3 Answers

The Polyiso would be installed on top of a new plywood roof deck. We'll need 4 layers of Polyiso to build up enough R-value for our zone, and a membrane roof will be installed over it. Many thx in advance, Rod

In Green building techniques | Asked By RT Vaughn | Jul 22 11
5 Answers

I have a 1880s house in Concord, MA (zone 5A), whose porch was converted into a bedroom 30-50 yrs ago. It was a cheap job. Only the far corner is supported; the crawl space was cheaply sealed with a thin stucco skirt (just a wire mesh with concrete smeared across). Now the skirt is crumbling and cold air comes right in under our bedroom in the winter.

Until we have the money & time (probably 4-5 years off) to build a real foundation/stemwall for it, we would like to re-seal it and possibly insulate (its winter temp is 50F (rest of house: 63)).

In General questions | Asked By Kevin Neijstrom | Jul 23 11
2 Answers

I am in climate 4A. I had a house built by a contractor in 2008. The exterior siding is stone, brick and dryvette. The contractor told us house wrap was not needed and did not use any housewrap such as Tyvek. The stone had tar paper under it and the dryvette system supposedly did not require it. Is there any reason to be concerned that the house wrap was not used? Also, is it required by code to have house wrap?

In Building Code Questions | Asked By angie davis | Jul 22 11
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