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3 Answers

I am trying to find an effective way to insulate a cathedral ceiling (with collar ties) in zone 5 south of Chicago. I have read many of the postings and have gathered much information, but am still hesitant due to the moisture drying to one side issue.

What I have is 2x6 rafters on a 4/12. I am doing a complete remodel and plan on removing the existing drywall and insulation. I want to verify the existence (or not) of ventilation chutes from eave to ridge.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By jon cypert | Nov 25 11
5 Answers

Getting ready to blow some insulation in my attic. the house was built in the 50's and walls/ceilings are the old 1/4" gypsum w/ full plaster job on top. So I understand sealing holes in plates , light boxes and such, how much more air sealing can/do I need to do?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Aaron Vander Meulen | Nov 25 11
1 Answer

Portland, Maine.The walls and roof of my 1950 cape home are sheethed with 1x8 pine boards (interesting as they came from the foundation form after it was poored for the house). There are 1/4 inch spaces between these boards. I've been through the benefits drawbacks and this will be a sealed hot roof. The roof is 2x6" rafters, 2" rigid foam with cellulose blown behind. Regardless of my labor and cost, would it be beneficial to caulk these spaces in the walls and roof ?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By dean manoogian | Nov 27 11
6 Answers

I was told by my roofing company that doing a new standing seam in phases is not a problem. We had the northeast side done this summer, and now the ridge is leaking on our house. The roof was not leaking prior to having the work done this summer.

The main reason I decided to do standing seam was so hopefully the snow and ice will not keep building up on it. Any idea why we have leaks now?

In General questions | Asked By Holly Ward | Nov 25 11
6 Answers

I am building a ranch house in RI. The house is 2400sqft, has SIP walls and is a slab on grade with radiant. My question concerns insulating my vented, vaulted ceiling. My living room is made with scissor trusses and has a 12" energy heal (inside the 9' SIP walls). I have had a few insulation companies come and give me an estimate on insulating the ceiling and I have as many recommendations on how to do the vaults. One company wants to do 12" of fiberglass\wool batts; another wants to do cellulose and yet another insists on rock wool.

In General questions | Asked By noc nomore | Nov 23 11
10 Answers

If I have an R-30, cold roofed, thermally isolated, conditioned attic (400 sq ft, rarely used living space for guests) and R-30 ceiling insulation over the main 1,000 sq ft living space, does that equate to R-60 for the main living space under the ceiling?

Both levels will have independent Monitor heating units. Both levels will have adequate mechanical ventilation and makeup air inlets. In zone 6. I'm aware that this is not up to code but I'm curious. What are the pros and cons of this set up?

In General questions | Asked By stephen edge | Nov 24 11
4 Answers

An acquaintance got an estimate to insulate her 16'x18' crawlspace. Although I haven't seen it personally, here's the scenario:

House is in WI, 7600 degree days, concrete block foundation (no vents to outside) with bare soil in crawlspace. However, the soil is dug down quite a bit deeper next to the foundation, so the soil slopes up towards the center of the crawlspace (about 2.5 ft. high in the middle). Forced air ducts run through the crawlspace, and the access to the crawlspace is a former basement window, which is open to the basement.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jonathan Beers | Nov 23 11
5 Answers

We have a home with a sunken living room and we wish to raise the floor approximately 9 inches to make it level with the surrounding rooms. The floor of the sunken living room is slab on grade. On three sides the adjacent floors are over vented crawl space, the fourth side is an exterior wall. To raise the floor I intend to build a frame with a plywood sub floor. With the raised floor should I mimic the surrounding floors, ie create a vented space with insulation up against the plywood sub floor. Or should I create a completely sealed and insulated space with rigid insulation on the slab.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Molly McCabe | Nov 23 11
9 Answers

Our local historic preservation committee will not allow retrofits/replacement of so called historic windows - the aging, single-pane, wood frame with "wavy" glass. Some in the historic community claim that the existing windows can be retrofitted with films, weatherstripping, insulated shades or the like and match the performance of a high performance (e.g., energy star rated) window replacement.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By mike keesee | Feb 8 11
10 Answers

My house is ICF walls,SIP roof,and 4"EPS under the basement slab. The basement is about 2/3rds the volume of the of the main floor.It is absolutely tight(less than .8ACH) with a vent fan if needed.It is painted a white throughout.It's 9/10ths below grade.Only one door and no windows. The main floor is manufactured "I" beams which are exposed in the basement ceiling.. Measuring air temperature, the basement is always 1degreeC below the main floor.I am told due 97% to irradiation from the white plywood under the 2" concrete slab of the main floor.

In General questions | Asked By Mike Legge | Nov 23 11
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