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3 Answers

I want to at least double the insulation value of my exterior walls(existing). Do I have to rip out the drywall completly or just bust through it in a lot of places. The existing wall has no vapor barrier on the inside or tyvec on the outside. Its just a 2x4 wall with 3 1/2 " bats and 3/4" dow board insulation on the exterior and vinyl siding. I plan to put a vaper barrier in when I build the wall. Was thinking of another 2x4 wall off set from the existing studs giving me an 8" plus wall, depending on the gap between. Any thoughts? Thanks!

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Chuck Byfield | Apr 25 10
8 Answers

I understand the clear advantages of foam insulation But I have found situations where it became a home for carpenter ants.This makes me wonder about the wisdom of using it in a semi-structural way on exterior walls,as in supporting siding that is fastened through the foam into solid wood.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Brian Carter | Apr 18 10
32 Answers

I am planning an addition to my house which will have a 500ft basement with 2 floors above it. The exterior walls are 16 ft by 22 ft. The basement will be concrete, and will have brick cladding for the above grade portion (as an aside, the single layer of brick cladding has no gap but is directly applied with mortar to the concrete - what do youthink of that?). The first and second floor will have stucco cladding.

In Green building techniques | Asked By richard Ugarte | Mar 21 10
4 Answers

I thought these issues with the foil-faced (for radiant barrier) roof decking were resolved, but I heard a prominent and revered moisture and roofing consultant insist that the major composition shingle manufacturers still will not honor or issue warranties for their products installed on foil-faced roof decking. Is this true? He went on to say that there was also a problem of radio frequency interference or Wifi reception for anyone living under a foil-faced roof deck. I haven't seen any documentation on this alleged problem. Does anyone have any experience on either or both of these issues?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Stephen Colley | Apr 21 10
2 Answers

I've been advised against blown in cellulose because the pitch is too great and the cellulose will eventually settle from peak ( http://www.flickr.com/photos/48876863@N08/ ). What is the best practice for insulation for this pitch?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Frank | Apr 22 10
6 Answers

Hi,

I'm an architect looking for advice as to how to detail a wood frame, flat roof/parapet wall assembly. I looked for one on this website and there isn't one. By flat I mean, one one that is sloped to drain and either is topped with a built up roof membrane or a single ply membrane. This is located in a mixed climate (Northern California).

I'm tending toward having an unvented assembly as the configuration doesn't lend itself to a simple venting solution. How should I insulate this - fully insulate with fiberglass batts, cellulose, spray foam?

In General questions | Asked By Daniel Weaver | Apr 15 10
2 Answers

We had some water damage in our basement recently and I do not want to replace it with carpet due to the fact that the area is the children playroom. The research I have done so far - I see options as: cork, marmoleum, Flor carpet tiles, natural rubber. I don't want to pay a ton of money - but I want it to be a healthy environment.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Sharon | Apr 21 10
4 Answers

Creating one of the most comfortable and economical heating systems available, SmartRooms Earth Thermal Storage System is installed in soil or sand under a concrete slab building foundation. (Sometimes called slab heating.) The result is that the ground underneath becomes an efficient, large mass of stored thermal energy. It's the same principle as the earth's core.

Their entire "energy saving" seems to depend on time of day off peak electrical rates as far as I can tell.
http://www.thermaray.com/solutions/earth.html

Comments?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Ted Ross | Apr 21 10
13 Answers

I am building a home with a conditioned attic. I will be spraying 11-12 inches of open cell foam underneath the roof sheathing. I need to allow the sheathing to breathe to the exterior, for it will not breathe to the interior with the 12 inches of foam. Thus, I was wondering if anyone was aware of a roof underlayment (other than building paper) that is breathable, durable, and that has a high exposure rate.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By JAMES MOYER | Jul 22 09
2 Answers

I live in Maryland and would like to improve the thermal performance of my basement. It has about 6 feet below grade and 3 feet above grade with slider windows. I currently have wood paneling in front of the brick masonry walls with one inch separation. Since the paneling includes a partition wall and looks nice, I would like to keep it. But I am thinking of shifting it forwards to allow for insulation between it and the brick wall. However, I doubt the paneling is effective as an air barrier.

In General questions | Asked By Richard | Apr 19 10
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