Q&A: A Forum for Green Building Experts and Beginners

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions. The usual rules of courtesy apply: 1. Be nice. 2. If you can't be nice, be polite. 3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief. To attach a photo or illustration: Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments." Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo. Thanks for joining the conversation!

2 Answers

I am wondering if open-cell foam (specifically Icynene) is OK to spray on the underside of a roof deck of an unfinished attic of a 1920's home in Connecticut.

The attic is a walk-up attic from stairs in a bedroom. The house has a basement which is where the boiler is located and there is no air conditioning. The walls have all been done with the closed-cell pour formula from Icynene.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Josh Ayers | Jan 3 12
7 Answers

I live just north of Seattle and am remodeling a 1200 sq. ft home. I've had an energy audit done, and insulated and air sealed as much as was reasonable. But still it's far from a well-insulated home primarily because of the cathedral ceilings and tongue-groove wood paneling (no air barrier) for a ceiling. I've spent 2 years trying to figure out the best way to heat. Currently I have a natural gas fireplace insert as the primary heat, but even with my creative use of fans it doesn't circulate the heat throughout the house. Advise???

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Julie Morse | Jan 2 12
11 Answers

I am looking at building a home in southern Ohio. I want to use 2x6 walls with dense packed cellulose, drywall, Osb sheathing, tyvek house wrap, and progressive foam insulated siding. Does this seem ok as far as moisture issues / breath ability? Is it even worth it for energy savings to use the insulated vinyl siding? I like the thermal break that it would provide. I am very new at this so any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Aaron Schirm | Dec 31 11
8 Answers

I am building a 1300 sq foot home in Durango, Colorado, in zone 5b. According to what I can find on line, we have a bit more than 7000 heating degree days here . The house I am building will have real (house is exterior foam wrapped for thermal break) R-30 walls and a little over R-50 ceilings. It will be tightly constructed and blower door tested. It will also have an simple bath fan exhaust system for air exchange (from three bath fans on the different levels).

In Mechanicals | Asked By Eric Hutt | Dec 27 11
12 Answers

Architect and code official are obsessed with the prescriptive method. I want to use a solid foam nailbase system with better overall performance and a thinner profile. How can I satisfy 402.2 for a small area of the roof without doing a full structure modeling analysis?

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Al Cobb | Nov 23 11
11 Answers

My home was built in 1998 and the design specifications and materials seem to
be good quality: 2x6 wall framing, Tyvek, and 6" fiberglass bats covered with
8" of blown fiberglass in the ceiling. The home is two stories though the 2nd
story floor space is much smaller than the 1st. Also, the entry way and living room on
the 1st floor have 12' ceilings while the rest of the 1st floor has 9'
ceilings. Some of the entry way space is taken up by a built in closet which
has a 9' ceiling.

First problem: inspecting the insulation above this closet, I found that the

In General questions | Asked By D Mikulec | Dec 5 11
6 Answers

Hi all, I had a question about proper installation of a wood floor on a concrete slab.

Assuming the slab has been moisture tested (and passes with flying colors), would it be alright to just put a plywood subfloor and finished wood floor on top? Or would I still be at risk of a mold issue in the future?

In Interior design | Asked By Jay Sheth | Dec 29 11
7 Answers

Is there a list of residential building engineers in the Denver, CO area that could analyze my home for a balanced ventilation system?

What is the title for such an engineer who could work with our local HVAC contractor?

Thanks in advance for all advice.

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Arvin Gilman | Dec 30 11
4 Answers

Hello...

I know this has been debated, but I am just curious as to some more outlook on the best option here. I just ripped out a bathroom with one exterior wall. The wall was insulated with foil-faced fiberglass batts --- after ripping them out I saw they had mold on the side contacting the house sheathing. The home is 100 years old --- wood sheathing with stucco outside.

In General questions | Asked By Jason Schatz | Dec 30 11
6 Answers

My 50+ year old house has a walk-in attic that we use for storage. There is moisture on the roof decking and some mold in the winter. The soffits are vented, there are 2 gable vents and a roof fan. The mold is mostly on the side that faces north and is more toward the roof line than the peak. I have weather stripping on the door and have glued 1" insulating foam board to the door in hopes of reducing heat entering the attic via the door. I have tried to seal off as many source of heat entering the attic that I can find. There is about 6 inches of insulation, not sure of the R value.

In General questions | Asked By Morris Goldstein | Dec 29 11
Register for a free account and join the conversation


Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!