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3 Answers

Domestic Hot Water Heating Options

I'm looking for some advice on the most efficient, cost effective way to heat DHW for my project currently being built. The project is in zone 6 and includes two residences, a main residence and an "in-law" apartment separated by an attached garage. Both homes will be spaced heated by the same pellet boiler located in the basement of the main residence. I'm thinking that an indirect fired hot water heater might be the most efficient atleast for the main residence but I'm not sure about the feasibility of doing this for the in-law apartment.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Brian Beaulieu | Sep 12 12
3 Answers

Adequate attic ventillation

The home I am building has a hip style roof system with a 10/12 pitch. There is a lot of unused space up there but a limited amount of ridge vent and the soffits are vented most of the perimiter. My builder is concerned about the amount of heat and its effect on the roof shingles. Should I add a roof vent and if so what type would work best. Thanks for the help. Dana

In Mechanicals | Asked By Dana St.Ours | Sep 11 12
1 Answer

Problem with calculation

So I have wrapped my feeble mind around this for the last time........

what am I doing wrong???????

I am calculating temp at the inside of my sheathing - but keep getting answers that don't seem right.....
Zone 6A 8200 HDD - average mean temp over three months is 12.13F, but I am using 2F for my calculations. Inside temp is 70F, RH % 35, Dew Point is 41F.

Here is the wall.....from the outside to the inside

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By brad hardie | Sep 11 12
1 Answer

Is there a supplier for Larsen Trusses in Edmonton, Alberta?

I'm wondering if this is a cheaper alternative to the double 2x4 wall system.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Mick Graham | Sep 11 12
6 Answers

Pros and cons of using 1" foam for exterior wall thermal break

I am building a garage in Northern Wi and want to use Tuff R against OSB sheathing. The insulation will be an additional 3" of foam board in the cavity wall. (2x4) Some living spaces are involved, but moisture from occupation should be minimal as the building is not plumbed. Walls will be sealed inside and an interior vapor barrier used. Caulking applied to all exterior stud joints. I want to apply a vapor barrier between the OSB and the foam for release of moisture. I am thinking of using 15 felt which is typical for stucco installations.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By roger aiken | Sep 9 12
5 Answers

Dehumidify only?

In Boston area, 5A region. I own a condo in an old building with average insulation and air sealing and a gas forced-air furnace.

I currently don't have central AC. My furnace needs replacing, and AC is cheaper as a package install. My city has about 400 cooling degree days per year, and my 1000 sqft condo is on the first floor and shaded by other buildings, so the heat is not too bad. Humidity is, however. A whole-house dehumidifier with a DIY install would be cheaper than AC, and we could conceivably take it with us if we moved. It would also handle humid days in the spring and fall.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Stephen Thrasher | Sep 6 12
6 Answers

Is it the average mean, or the average low temperature I should use to calculate BTU needs and condensation points?

So I am calculating whole wall R-values and condensation point within the wall.....
In my calculations so far I have used the average "low temp" of the coldest month. Actually I used a temperature just a bit 1-2 degrees colder than the average low temperature listed. But in further reading, I noted that some only use the average "mean" temperature of the coldest month, and not the average of the "low" temp. Which is it...cause it would "mean" the difference in a few inches of insulation on the exterior?

Zone 6A - 8200 or so Heating degree days

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By brad hardie | Sep 9 12
1 Answer

Insulating a crawl space that has partial infloor heating above and drain / water lines below

I'm having a bathroom installed in a sunroom conversion to 4 season room. Due to the layout of the room we were hoping to only install infloor heating to the bathroom portion as it won't get much heat off the rad system that exists on the main floor.

The entire room itself is over a non vented crawl space. I know I can either insulate the walls or the ceiling in the crawlspace. Using rigid xps foam what would be better to ensure moisture isn't built up as well as preventing pipes from not freezing in the winter? I get both hot humid summers and cold winters in Southern Ontario, Canada.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Mike Tew | Sep 11 12
7 Answers

HELP - Lost thermal break at the slab meeting code

We are building a house in upstate NY on a floating insulated slab using ICF's on top of footers. We presented the attached original plan to the town and the building inspector came back with a requirement that we put 12 inches of concrete under our double wall with no part of the wall bearing on foam (see revised wall section). He was able to cite a section of the code that says a foundation wall must have a minimum width equal to the wall size (with two exceptions that don't apply to us). This is one argument that we will not win.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Elizabeth Kormos | Sep 10 12
1 Answer

Refinance & Appraisal on Historic Net Zero Home

You've heard this before . . . no comps, no deal.

We're refinancing our 111-year-old net zero energy home. At my request the appraiser used PV Value and included the Appraisal Institute Green Addendum. He valued the home added $40-50k to the home for all the "green" features (including geothermal and 8.1kw solar resulting in net positive energy production over any rolling 12 month period). See GBA case study about home: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/homes/mission-zero-house-net-zero-re....

In General questions | Asked By matthew grocoff | Sep 11 12
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