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6 Answers

I'm replacing some drywall in the corner of my basement - just one sheet on each wall. The block wall on one side (Northeast) is all below grade. The wall on the other side (Northwest) is half below grade. The bottom plate/block connection is not well sealed, so I was going to do that. The builder had a put a piece of poly up over the studs and fiberglass batts on the above-grade portion. the outer sheathing is right behind them. Should I replace this piece of poly or should I leave the fiberglass and studs exposed to increase drying to the inside?

In General questions | Asked By Michael Schonlau | Jul 17 11
5 Answers

update to Paul Ehrlich's 1968 'The Population Bomb' - http://www.pbs.org/wnet/need-to-know/environment/video-standing-room-onl...

In General questions | Asked By j chesnut | Jul 16 11
2 Answers

I have a wall between my basement laundry room and the garage. This is a frame wall with drywall on both sides and fiberglass batts in between. I've noticed some crust white material near the bottom of the interior wall (see photo). Any ideas what might be causing this? There is no moisture damage apparent.

In General questions | Asked By Michael Schonlau | Jul 19 11
16 Answers

Hi again, GBA Forum:

Two and a half years ago, I had the roof ripped off my house and a second story put on. I paid for the envelope including door/window installs, the plumbing, and additional ductwork runs, and did the electrical, insulating of the second floor, and finish work myself.

In General questions | Asked By Minneapolis Disaster | Mar 24 11
2 Answers

I am in the midst of a re-roof that was spawned by water damage. We're taking off concrete shingles and putting on a metal roof (futureroof.com). I am looking for the best insulation that creates a vapor/moisture barrier. I was about to use closed-cell foam.

One cathedral ceiling has 2x4 roof joists that will be shimmed to 4 and a quarter inches. In some places on this roof the original skip sheathing is in place which could be left in place (at least most of it) while removing the batt insulation. This is a nonvented space.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Judith Bell | Jul 17 11
1 Answer

Hello there - I am working on retrofitting a brownstone in Brooklyn NY to near Passive House standards. Considering using Air Krete - I would love to hear some feedback; at first it looks like a good product save to install and enviro friendly; also they state a high R value !
any comments are appreciated.
Dominik
www.228Washington.com

In Green products and materials | Asked By Dominik Eckenstein | Jul 18 11
14 Answers

I'm wondering what techniques others have come up with to attach porch deck and roof ledgers to exteriors walls with 3" to 4" of rigid exterior foam. I suspect this is a question that begs for an engineer's stamp but I would appreciate an overview of methods others have used to both attach a porch roof, for example, without compromising the thermal break provided by the 3" to 4" of foam. Perhaps one can through-bolt the ledger through the foam directly to the interior stud wall.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Ray Sebold | Jul 15 11
32 Answers

We are building a 2 story lake front home in southeastern tn. The basement is 10 feet tall and walkout with about half the wall being poured and the other half being 2x6. The slab has 2 inch thick foam around the perimeter. The poured wall will have interior foam between the studs. The plane between the basement and first floor are 16 in flooring trusses.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By edward lord | Jul 14 11
8 Answers

Martin Holladay's article, "Installing Insulation Right - It's Hard to do a Perfect Job" had me wondering if a DIYer could install fiberglass insulation "right". Assuming a DIYer were inclined to install it right, is there any reason why they couldn't install it to a Grade I level?

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/installing-fiberg...

Also, in this same article is the following sentence:

"To achieve the R-value shown on its label, a fiberglass batt must be installed perfectly in a wall or ceiling cavity enclosed by a six-sided air barrier."

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Steve Robertson | Jul 10 11
0 Answers

A link to the final installment of
Riversong's Radical Reflections
http://www.buildinggreen.com/live/index.cfm/Riversongs-Radical-Reflections

In Green building techniques | Asked By John Brooks | Jul 15 11
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