Q&A: A Forum for Green Building Experts and Beginners

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

The usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration:
Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments."
Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!

0 Answers

The 2009 IRC allows for unvented roofs, providing there is compliance with severals qualification, including air impermeable insulation. Does anyone have any experience attaching polyiso insulation to the underside of the roof deck?

In Building Code Questions | Asked By Paul J | Jul 14 11
4 Answers

What is the best way to build an exterior door threshold in a 12" thick wall? The floor is concrete, with a 4" gap of XPS between it and the 8" thick foundation. The concrete floor is the same level as the top of the concrete foundation. The door will probably be in an "innie" position, that is, flush with the interior wall. There may be a storm door in the "outie" position.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Jack Woolfe | Jul 11 11
0 Answers

I am really stumped about an issue and have been researching and making calls for three full days. I am installing a pre finished 6" wide solid wood plank floor on top of a plywood subfloor from a company that assured me I could use a water based glue. The installer now tells me that he does not recommend this type of glue for this application since the bond will not be strong enough and the water content will warp the floor. They are nailing this floor also but the underside of this floor has a pre finish on it. This finish is not a water based product but is u/v cured.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Arlene DiMarino | Jul 13 11
3 Answers

To the home did not have any insulaion or was not closed off to the rest of the house. The Garage area is the same way. Should these areas be closed off or insulated ? By the way Radiant Barrier dropped my electric air conditioning bill 1/3. Thanks Tc

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By tim czaja | Jul 13 11
10 Answers

PROJECT: Major energy retrofit in Jonesboro, GA (30 min. South of Atlanta).

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Chris Laumer-Giddens | Jul 12 11
1 Answer

I'm going to ask what may be a stupid question, but it wouldn't be the first time...

I've read the discussion of vented and unvented attics, foam where less is more, and finally should ceiling insulation be removed when creating a unvented attic.

My attempt is to combine these questions into one large "big picture" grand unifying theory. My area is CZ 4 which is a mixed humid climate.

It is clear that less foam is more insulation (NOT) but there are several people who believe that a R20 under the roof deck is sufficient. Let's not suspend the rules of physics, please.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By John Nooncaster | Jul 11 11
7 Answers

Greetings from your neighbors to the north!

We're looking at building a 10 or 12" thick, double stud wall with either blown-in cellulose or batt insulation. We are in a dry, cold climate (Regina, Saskatchewan) From reading Riversong's various blogs and techniques, I've noticed he typically uses the air-tight drywall approach and a paint as his vapor barrier with no poly in the system.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Logan Lacelle | Jul 11 11
5 Answers

We are in the process of working out a design with a client for a small ~ 600 sq ft inlaw addition. We plan on R-24 walls and R-40 roof insulation. For various reasons we want to use a separate HVAC system, but it's such a small space. We've been looking at mini-splits with two interior units fed off of one exterior (bedroom and living/dining/kitchen) but it seems the smallest such unit is rated for 1200 sq ft. My mechanical installer tells me that the units are variable speed and will compensate for the smaller space. Is he right? Is it overkill?

In Mechanicals | Asked By Daniel McCauley | Jul 11 11
1 Answer

I'm a renter and the hardwood floors in my apt. need to be refinished. My landlord wants a product that will stand up over time (hopefully as well as the high VOC oil polyurethanes she's used in the past). I have chemical sensitivities and need something non-toxic, (I can vacate for a week or two during off-gassing). What is the best-looking, longest-wearing, most non-toxic option?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Sue M. | Sep 14 10
0 Answers

My question is how does it compare with ICF in terms of durability and ability to withstand Hurricane force winds.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By SYED JALIL | Jul 11 11
Register for a free account and join the conversation

Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!