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1 Answer

Termites and pressure-treated wood

Do termites stay away from pressure-treated wood?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By roger steinbrink | Jul 30 13
1 Answer

How do you keep a continuous air barrier in a vented attic over a porch?

This duplex is being built in zone 4C (see photo). The vented attics are going to be blown with cellulose.

My concern is the part of the attic that extends over the front porch. The porch roof will be cedar car decking. The plans don't call for any insulation or air barrier in this part of the attic - just cardboard baffles at the exterior wall plane to hold the cellulose in place.

Are insulation or an air barrier needed there?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Elizabeth Coe | Jul 30 13
1 Answer

Problems with roofing and ventilating house

My insurance company has agreed to replace the roof, including the decking (sheathing), and ventilation, in my Cape Cod home in Dayton, Ohio. I have a refinished, vaulted second floor, with a small attic peak. All of this was there when I bought the home 3 years ago (I think it was done in 1998).

Thinking this would be a chance to improve the insulation, I began to investigate what to do. Now I am completely baffled, both online sources and contractors have given me such divergent advise.

This is what I know of my houses structure.

I have asphalt shingles

In General questions | Asked By James Todd Uhlman | Jul 30 13
2 Answers

Crawl space - Need advice

Climate zone 5; 1,900 sq. ft. unvented crawl space. 3 feet clearance. Poured concrete walls and floor. Foil faced fiberglass batts in poor shape on joists installed incorrectly. Recently installed very large dehumidifier.

Where should I insulate? Walls or floor? Only access through 2'x2' hatch.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Walter Gayeski | Jul 31 13
6 Answers

Is this what dense-packed cellulose is supposed to look like?

Hi all,
I'd be interested in other folks' opinion on this. I paid an insulation contractor to dense pack an unvented vaulted ceiling in my home a little over 2 years ago. I started experiencing some pretty bad moisture problems in the past month or so with the ceiling and exterior soffit. A couple of the seams of the sheetrock inside the house are starting to show on the ceiling and the outside soffit drips even when the sun is out.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Tony Fiore | Jul 30 13
3 Answers

Vapor barrier for use with Roxul

I am doing a complete renovation of my house right now and I've chosen to insulate with Roxul Comfort Batts. I've read that I need to use a vapor barrier, but I've also read that vapor barriers can cause houses to be moldy or can cause rot inside the walls because the walls cannot dry out properly.

I am in zone 4, right on the edge of zone 5 in long island, NY. I'd appreciate anyone who can offer a recommendation or some advice. Thanks.


In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Kevin Schramm | Jul 30 13
13 Answers

Using EPS and XPS in a conditioned crawl space

I live in Juneau Alaska, Climate Zone 7.

Living here, I often have to use whatever is available rather than the optimum. We just don't have access and supply to everything. This being said, I am looking to insulate my crawlspace and convert it into a conditioned crawlspace by insulating the interior stem walls to the footings. In accordance with 2012 standards, I want to be sure that I have AT LEAST R-15 on the stem walls and joist bays.

Herein lies the problem.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Emil Mackey | Jun 24 13
3 Answers

Unusual use of RainSlicker plus Typar: backwards?

I asked a question on this forum about some masonry details, and it suddenly occurred to me that I need a bit of advice on another aspect of my wall.

With a masonry/air-gap system, I am going with a 3d drainage mat in between two water-resistive barriers. The first is already on the sheathing, in the form of a liquid-applied membrane (StoGuard.) To complete the WRB system, I figured I'd use a product that integrates the drainage mat and a second WRB--HomeSlicker Plus Typar.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Andy Chappell-Dick | Jul 31 13
1 Answer

New steel building

I live in Dallas TX, zone 3A.
I am in the planning stage of a steel building. The building will be ~2000 sqr feet & 16' walls. I plan to section off one corner of the building to be an office space but plan to cool the entire building, 2 zones. If orientation matters the large doors will face almost directly north, with a west wall that will get direct late day sun during the heat of the summer.

The standard wall construction used by the builder I am working with is constructed like this. From the outside in.

-Steel sheeting

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Jeff Kirkpatrick | Jul 31 13
2 Answers

Trench wall foundation insulation

We are currently putting an addition on our home. The concrete contractor messed up and simply used a trench foundation for part of the foundation wall, he has been thrown off the job. We found out the village code requires 2 inches of rigid insualtion 24 inches down from the top of the foundation wall.

Being that part of the foundation is trenched, no forms, it is rugged and ragged and now has to be made smoother in order to apply the insulation,,,, Any suggestions on how to best chip away at the concrete to smooth it or other ideas to insulate?

We are in the Chicago area, zone 5.

In General questions | Asked By Mike McGinty | Jul 31 13
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