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We are planning to install formaldehyde-free fiberglass insulation batts with 1 1/2 " insulation baffles in an attic that will have ridge and soffit vents. Need FSK [foil-scrim-kraft] faced so that it can be left exposed. Worried about flame retardants, as they build up in the body and do not flush out (store in our fat tissue).

Any idea how to find out what flame retardants are added to FSK facing? Is each product different?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Jas Thurber | Dec 13 11
5 Answers

I have a two story home that I would like to conduct a deep energy retrofit as part of an extensive remodel. The home was built in 1964 and is located in Cincinnati (zone 4A). There is currently no insulation or poly vapor barrier in the walls. There is 1/8" thermoply sheathing.

Right now, the plans are to remove the brick and vinyl siding. The 2x4 walls will be dense packed cellulose in the 2x4 walls and covered with 1-2" of polyisocyanurate sheathing. Fiber cement siding will be placed over the assembly on furring strips.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Brad Stoppenhagen | Dec 11 11
5 Answers

Hello, I recently completed a home energy audit and a few questions arose during the process...
- I was advised to raise the water temp in my standard 50gl electric water heater. My water source is a single user well that gets softened then carbon filtered...what's the Min temp I can set?
- Is it best to turn the mini's off during the day and let the house temp go down OR simply leave the mini's on at a lower temp and adjust for comfort when occupied?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Frank O | Dec 11 11
1 Answer

Please advise where I can find the inset grate referred to in the article http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/green-basics/decks-and-porches

"Install a grate at doorways, flush-mounted into the decking, to reduce the quantity of mud and snow tracked into the house."

Gene B.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Gene Bohatch | Dec 13 11
2 Answers

Planning on a 12' high to 10.5' high, 36 x18 steel building on a concrete slab and then framing it out at 8 ft. for a small bungalow home.

One large room with a 6x8 area for bath.... Plan on a PTAC heat/cool unit, large double door on front 36 '.....and another door on the back corner.

Is this practical? Plan on supplier's insulation on the roof and then adding insulation on both walls and ceiling of my frame-out.

Suggestions, hints, warnings?...............In northeast Texas.

In General questions | Asked By gary kincaid | Dec 12 11
4 Answers

Once a roofer always a roofer.. could not agree more. Here's the problem.
Looking at the front of my house the lower section of roof ( over the family
room and garage) has a dip/sway in the area over the family room ( 12' wide).
Vaulted ceiling inside, first room I finished in the house... I know, I
know.. but the room really needed done. Spring of 2012 is reroof of the
house. I could show off my carpentry skills by pulling the plywood in the dip /sway
area, shimming the rafters and then resheathing. But I am open for another

In General questions | Asked By Bill Deacon | Dec 12 11
4 Answers

Hi All,

Does anyone out there know of manufacturers of very airtight (ie, passivehouse level, or close) sliding glass doors? And maybe - though this is a long shot - also Dade county (hurricane) compliant?


In Green products and materials | Asked By Cramer Silkworth | Dec 12 11
27 Answers

As an energy adviser in Manitoba, I see a lot of basements with cast-in-place joists. If the header space is filled with concrete up to the underside of the floor deck, the advice is easy: Cut R-5 XPS to fit, caulk or foam it in, and glue the vapour barrier.

While I'm at it - how about the rim joist space parallel to the joists?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Geoff Ireland | Dec 10 11
15 Answers

I looked at a house today that has a couple of wood-burning fireplaces. They are back to back in separate rooms. One of them has metal-framed glass doors that are tight fitting but not gasketed; the other has mesh curtains. They both have old-school metal dampers right above the firebox, the type where you can reach in, grab a short metal arm, and open or close the damper by engaging notches in the arm on a pin. They both have small make-up air inlets in the firebox sides that are run to the exterior. They both have stubs for gas log lighters.

In Mechanicals | Asked By David Meiland | Jan 7 11
9 Answers

Hi. I own a bungalow in Minneapolis, MN built 1921 with a poured concrete foundation. I am finishing 1/2 of this basement as a legal bedroom, and wish to put in drywall walls and ceiling. My wife and I have lived here for seven years, and have had nary a drop of water leak through the foundation and into our basement. No mold or mildew problems, either, though it can get humid down there in the warmer months, for which we use a dehumidifier.

In General questions | Asked By Jesse P | Feb 25 11
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