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1 Answer

New steel building

I live in Dallas TX, zone 3A.
I am in the planning stage of a steel building. The building will be ~2000 sqr feet & 16' walls. I plan to section off one corner of the building to be an office space but plan to cool the entire building, 2 zones. If orientation matters the large doors will face almost directly north, with a west wall that will get direct late day sun during the heat of the summer.

The standard wall construction used by the builder I am working with is constructed like this. From the outside in.

-Steel sheeting

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Jeff Kirkpatrick | Jul 31 13
2 Answers

Trench wall foundation insulation

We are currently putting an addition on our home. The concrete contractor messed up and simply used a trench foundation for part of the foundation wall, he has been thrown off the job. We found out the village code requires 2 inches of rigid insualtion 24 inches down from the top of the foundation wall.

Being that part of the foundation is trenched, no forms, it is rugged and ragged and now has to be made smoother in order to apply the insulation,,,, Any suggestions on how to best chip away at the concrete to smooth it or other ideas to insulate?

We are in the Chicago area, zone 5.

In General questions | Asked By Mike McGinty | Jul 31 13
3 Answers

Need a system designer

I've been intrigued with using the Quaternity System by Daikin ever since it was suggested in another Q&A post. I am building a new home and have someone to run the manual J, but he is not comfortable with designing the system. Can someone point me to a designer who can handle this project? The tricky part (apparently) is ensuring comfort throughout the entire structure.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Steven Knapp | Jul 24 13
5 Answers

Plywood clips in new home construction

We are finally building the house that I have been planning for the past 3 years.

We started with framing from a Shelter kit because I had the naive notion that my brother and I could frame the house. Fortunately I have a very good contractor and carpenters who have been doing the framing. I go by everyday and make sure that all the seams are sealed well.

We are now putting on the roof sheathing to try to protect the framing from the record-breaking July rain in the Southeast (most ever in recorded).

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Lucy Foxworth | Jul 29 13
12 Answers

Tight home — help with indoor humidity

Some basic background: Finishing the new home build. Zone 6 (Iowa). Currently hot, humid days. About 90-95 outside with 80%+ humidity levels.

House is 3800 sqft, (half main level, rest is basement, fully ducted and conditioned however) r28 full ICF with R60 blown attic with spray foam attic seal, triple pane windows. Heating is through a ducted furnace (Lennox SLP98) and an XP16 air conditioner. HRV for the home.

In Mechanicals | Asked By Jesse Lizer | Jul 21 13
40 Answers

Minisplit comfort

Is using a single mini split to heat and cool my "dream house" going to result in acceptably even temperature distribution? The house will be well enough insulated with r60 ceiling, r40 walls, r30 basement and r24 below slab and well sealed (under 1 ACH goal) with great fiberglass triple pane windows that barely crack r5. I've attached the tentative floor plan to illustrate my concern. Though a mini split will be sufficient heat/cooling power the temperature difference in the distant bedroom vs the main living areas is asking for trouble, I believe.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jerry Liebler | Jul 19 13
6 Answers

Formula for R-Value?

This is probably a really stupid question, but is there a way to calculate the temperature of air after it has passed through insulation?

For instance, if it is 20 degrees outside, and I have a R-30 wall, what would be the temperature of the air that is on the other side of the insulation?

In General questions | Asked By J S | Jul 20 13
7 Answers

Sewer smell

So in the summer only we have what can be a strong sewer smell in the unfinished part of the basement. What I don't understand is the smell is only present in the summer time, not the winter. Following the smell I believe I have located the source which is under a shower in a bathroom that was renovated before we moved into the home. Everything is dry around the plumbing, but am wondering if it could possibly be coming from the flexible T fitting where the new PVC drain line and old copper drain line connect. Has anyone had experiences with these connections not working well.

In General questions | Asked By Joshua Lloyd | Jul 20 13
5 Answers

Combustion air in a very tight house

I am planning to heat with two mini splits in a 1200 sq. foot storey and a half ...total sq. ft of 2100 .My back up will be a 20,000 btu propane free standing fireplace It will be a tight house ..Will air leakage supply the fresh air for combustion or do I need a dedicated fresh air supply ...I will have an HRV ...thanks,Bob

In General questions | Asked By bob holodinsky | Jul 26 13
5 Answers

Insect chemicals in a green house

Our cat has fleas and the vet said we need to "bomb" the house to prevent an infestation. Our house is tight (745 CFM50) and IAQ compatible (we followed the checklist but didn't pursue certification) so the last thing I want is to spray a bunch of chemicals inside. Considering the house, are there any good options to eliminate the fleas?

In Green products and materials | Asked By Chris Baddorf | Jul 23 13
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