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3 Answers

I have a small, 1910 home in Seattle. This year, we will be gutting most of the main foor and installing recycled cotton batt insulation in the 2x4 wall cavities. Would it be worth the extra effort to install rigid foam on the inside face of the framing before installing a vapor barrier and drywall?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Lauren | Mar 18 10
0 Answers

I'm simply interested in attending some introduction or training seminar if someone could inform me of any that are scheduled to begin in April.

In General questions | Asked By Leonard Harris | Mar 18 10
2 Answers

8 foot basement walls with 16" above grade.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By chris marks | Mar 17 10
4 Answers

I'm interested in ICFs primarily to build foundations for new residential homes. I don't know about using them for the walls of an entire house, but it seems good to use them in foundations, especially as I get more convinced that crawlspace ventilation does not seem necessary in most climates. Building footings with protruding rebar, then stacking ICFs for the rest of the foundation seems so much easier than wood or plywood forming. Then clean and cover the interior earth with ground barrier.....frame without the need for floor insulation, etc.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Ed Welch | Mar 15 10
8 Answers

After much debate, I've decided that spray foam is not an option I'm willing to explore. Too much room for error. Can I use cellulose on cathedral ceilings? What are my options? I will be making venting channels from the eaves to the ridge and putting something on top of that.

Thanks.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By eggman | Mar 14 10
6 Answers

I am residing my house located in Minneapolis, MN built in 1907. The wall assembly is -- plaster/lathe, wood framing, building paper, wood board siding, and the old wood lap siding (which will be removed except for the soffit/crown trim at the eaves.) Before residing I will be blowing dense pac cellulose into the stud cavities. My house is a 1 ¾ story gabled configuration with ~10” overhangs. The exterior wall are highly exposed to the sun and weather.

From what I have gleaned from this site a drainscreen installation will maximize the longevity of the wood lap siding and paint.

In Green building techniques | Asked By j chesnut | Mar 12 10
19 Answers

I am designing a PH as a vacation house in Vermont. We will have a peak load of 10 persons over the weekend.

This is a lot of hot water.

Can anyone point me to a Wood Stove/Hot Water heater with:

Outside Air Intake
Hot Water Coils
Oven
Cooktop

in Modern Design with a large percentage of heat going to the water?

Like this:
http://www.wodtke.com/momo.html (hw only)
http://www.euroflues.com/products/fireplaces/woodstove/pallas-back (cooking & oven)
http://www.twlag.ch/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=51&Itemid=... (hw only)

In PassivHaus | Asked By Steven Landau | Jun 16 09
4 Answers

New catergory without any questions - I couldn't resist. I have spent the last several years trying to learn as much as i can about green building and building science. Have taken all the prep classes on all of the different green building programs in town - Energy Star, EFL, Earthcraft, LEED-H, Healthy built homes, National Green Building Standard, etc. and have certified a few homes to a few of the different programs trying to get a feel for them all. Frequent all of the building science websites and subscribe to the typical home building publications.

In NAHB Class Discussion | Asked By Danny Kelly | Mar 14 10
3 Answers

I am looking for information and technique on compartmentalization on multifamily family buildings. A question came up in a class about how to do this in existing high rises. The questions stems for one of the residences complaining about smoke and other indoor air pollutants getting into their apartment from a neighboring apartment.

In General questions | Asked By Mark Yuschak | Mar 15 10
2 Answers

Besides completely gutting the entire house (plaster, lath, mechanicals,etc) removing damaged framing members and painting with BIN sealer, what other lessons have been learned?

After it is 100% gutted, any problem with power washing if weather permits drying? Place was already dowsed by fire department in the winter, and shows signs of mold throughout, but many of the wood floors still seem salvageable, if the odor is eliminated.

Please advise asap. Work in progress, searching for the cure.

Matt

In GBA Pro help | Asked By matt berges | Mar 14 10
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