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6 Answers

The old ‘keeping the room above the garage warm’ conundrum

I have a 7 yr old 2 story colonial in Zone 4/5 (just outside of NYC)

The room above the garage is cold, I opened a 1ft sq up and found R38 but it hadnt been attached the the floor joists above so it was resting compressed on the garage ceiling, so rather than tear the ceiling down I blew in cellulose to fill in the floor joists.

So result floor warmer but still cold.

Question, if I screwed and taped 2" foil faced poly iso sheets to the garage ceiling would that be enough of a thermal break to make it any warmer,

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Darren Finch | Feb 20 14
4 Answers

About to build a coastal home in zone 2B and would like to be off the grid as much as possible & be hurricane resistant.

We have never done a new-build and never had to deal with hurricane potential. We want to start with the most off the grid build possible for our area (Corpus Christi, TX). This will be a retirement property for us so we do need to consider budget. What are the most cost effective ways to be energy efficient while also being able to withstand high wind & flood potential?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Ken Smith | Feb 19 14
1 Answer

Building out a shower over foil faced polyiso interior sheathing

My husband and I are renovating a 1900 farmhouse. The exterior walls have old aluminum siding over older wood siding. There is cellulose insulation blown into the 2 x 4 wall cavities. The walls had 1" wood ship lap interior sheathing. We have sheathed all the interior walls with 1" foil faced polyiso rigid insulation. We are drywalling directly over the polyiso since the ship lap behind it gives us a good substrate to which to screw the drywall (with 2 1/2" screws), but I am uncertain about what to do for the shower and tiled bathroom walls.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By C Foley | Feb 19 14
1 Answer

Water heater for geothermal system?

I currently have a geothermal system approximately 10 years old. I have two electric water heaters. My water heater in the attic is going out. It is a standard 50 gallon electric water heater ( replacement size does matter, as it must fit through the attic opening.) It is not hooked up properly to allow the geothermal system to heat the water during the allowable times of year. Is there a particular water heater (brand and model) you would recommend that can be connected to the geothermal system (assuming it is done properly this time) ?

Thank you.

In General questions | Asked By LOUANNE SANBORN | Feb 19 14
5 Answers

Closed-cell foam on attic floor?

Does it make sense to use a couple of inches of closed cell/ or open cell foam to seal my attic floor before adding blown fiberglass? The home would have a vented attic and located in Zone 5. Just wondering if it is overkill. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By jake huff | Feb 19 14
1 Answer

Ever heard of sheep's wool insulation?

I am not sure if I should reference the product/company specifically, but there is a company that sells sheep's wool insulation in batts and rolls and possibly a blown product as well.

Anyone familiar with this?

In Green products and materials | Asked By brent sitterly | Feb 19 14
3 Answers

Excellent article on insulating paint scams. Does this also apply to roof coatings purported to reflect heat energy?

There is a flow of logic to the reflection of heat. Are there any facts to support it?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By David Rigby | Dec 28 13
2 Answers

Electric water heater vis-à-vis time-limited water availability

•Given that there is available one hour of plumbed water per day;
Is it more efficient (in regards to equipment /durability v. electrical
parsimony) to turn off the heater for much of the day, turning it on
only in time to heat sufficient water for use in that hour....

•OR to simply leave it on so as to avoid possible equpment stresses and
the increased & abrupt electrical demand for that rather colder reservoir?

•The question is poorly presented but an engineering response would be
very much appreciated. I have one hour of water/day and am resource limited.

thanks

has_te

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Has Teyla | Feb 19 14
3 Answers

Could an 80% gas furnace pull radon into the home?

I own a 1930 duplex in Portland, OR and am starting to do gradual updates. The first thing I will be doing is decommissioning the in ground oil tanks and installing gas furnaces. I am trying to choose whether to do 80% furnaces or 90% furnaces and am weighing the following thoughts:

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Cyrus Collins | Feb 18 14
1 Answer

Trying to get the ‘Musings’ blog on vinyl windows — search won't find it

Musings help?

In General questions | Asked By Brian Gottsacker | Feb 19 14
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