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2 Answers

Hi All,

I am remodeling a bathroom and have all the drywall off. The home is 40 years old, and 3 1/2" foil faced fiberglass insulation was used in the walls and the ceiling. It is in good shape. I have several sheets of used, 3" thick polyiso insulation, black paper faced (not foil). I was thinking of removing the fiberglass, then putting polyiso behind it, then replacing the fiberglass. Anyone see any problems with this (moisture, mold, etc).

thanks.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By michael steinzig | Oct 23 11
7 Answers

A freidn of mine had air krete installed in his existing brick condo. He is highly sensitive to materilas and also had cellulose blown in the attic. Ever since her has been unable to tolerate living there...his throat dries out and his tongue swells. Thoughts on curing this situation. Thanks

In Green products and materials | Asked By gary maas | Oct 22 11
1 Answer

I have a house which was constructed c1800 with frame walls filled with rubble The exterior is wood siding and the interior walls are plaster on lath. I would like to make the home less drafty. Is it worth it to insulate the walls with spray foam or some other method? Is my money spent better insulating the attic or basement. Some details are: the roof is slate, the attic is uninsulated, the foundation walls are stone, the original windows have storms. We live in Central New Jersey. Your knowledgeable thoughts are appreciated.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Dana Lansing | Oct 23 11
1 Answer

I am an electrical engineer, and I am designing a house for myself. I am comparing materials for permeance. I saw this perm rating document for air krete:
http://www.airkrete.com/testResults_files/PermRating.pdf

Please show me the math to convert the result in this document to units of US perms.
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perm_%28unit%29

In Green products and materials | Asked By Woodland Dweller | Oct 23 11
4 Answers

OK, I think the experiment to read all the Blog Threads from last to first is not working out for me… its kind of un-natural to follow a thread from the bottom up; same as reading a book from the back cover to the front. The Q&A threads have the option to read them either way… can that same option be available for the blogs?

In General questions | Asked By Armando Cobo | Oct 20 11
10 Answers

Is it possible to use a 1" DOW SIS panel as exterior sheathing on a 2x6 wall with cellulose, 1/2" GWB and latex paint in Denver, Colorado (Climate Zone 5)? Here is my analysis. Please provide your thoughts, analysis, and comments. Thanks!

FACTS:

In Green building techniques | Asked By Jeremy Kozik | Oct 20 11
3 Answers

My company is about to start a retro-fit project...My main concern is, How to keep the panels of foam with 5/8 osb, with strapping and Hardy plank siding from, "sliding straight down" from all of the weight of the whole "system"...It seems that, with a 6" headlock screw, the weight of the system would pull it down or at least sag...The specs for the foam board only covers roofing applications. NOT WALLS....Any Ideas???

In Green products and materials | Asked By Jay Parham | Oct 21 11
1 Answer

We just used their floor finish - the Poly Whey line - on a quarter-sawn oak floor. Looks really fantastic, seems to be a very tough finish, and even during application you'd barely know there was anything going on - incredibly low odor. We're sold on it after our first usage.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Dan Kolbert | Oct 21 11
4 Answers

I am building a home in climate zone 4 using the Energy Star v3 standards. We are in the design stage.

The walls will be 2 x 6 with 1/2 sheathing and blown cellulose in the stud bays. We plan to use 1/2 inch rigid foam on the exterior of the building to provide a thermal break. The drywall inside will be installed with airtight details specified by Energy Star version 3.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Beth Robinson | Oct 21 11
5 Answers

I recently read an article comparing forced air and radiant heat energy use. The finding showed that the folk with radiant heat set their thermostats higher than for forced air. I hope that I am not being silly, but how can a thermostat on a wall respond to radiant heat? If one put a metal foil around the thermostat ,but let air flow occur, would the thermostat read a different number? I read in Mr Lyles masonry stove book that a cathedral that had radiant heating only had a 2 degree difference between the floor and ceiling (75 feet up).

In Mechanicals | Asked By Mike Legge | Oct 12 11
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