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1 Answer

We just used their floor finish - the Poly Whey line - on a quarter-sawn oak floor. Looks really fantastic, seems to be a very tough finish, and even during application you'd barely know there was anything going on - incredibly low odor. We're sold on it after our first usage.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Dan Kolbert | Oct 21 11
4 Answers

I am building a home in climate zone 4 using the Energy Star v3 standards. We are in the design stage.

The walls will be 2 x 6 with 1/2 sheathing and blown cellulose in the stud bays. We plan to use 1/2 inch rigid foam on the exterior of the building to provide a thermal break. The drywall inside will be installed with airtight details specified by Energy Star version 3.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Beth Robinson | Oct 21 11
5 Answers

I recently read an article comparing forced air and radiant heat energy use. The finding showed that the folk with radiant heat set their thermostats higher than for forced air. I hope that I am not being silly, but how can a thermostat on a wall respond to radiant heat? If one put a metal foil around the thermostat ,but let air flow occur, would the thermostat read a different number? I read in Mr Lyles masonry stove book that a cathedral that had radiant heating only had a 2 degree difference between the floor and ceiling (75 feet up).

In Mechanicals | Asked By Mike Legge | Oct 12 11
10 Answers

This idea was proposed to me by a developer. I have my opinions but I wanted to hear some other comments.

1. Residential construction with a gable roof that faces north and south
2. Climate Zone 5
3. Asphalt Shingle construction - darker colored
4. 5.5-inches (R21) Demelic ocSPF sprayed to underside of roof. http://www.demilecusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/TDS-Sealection-500.pdf
5. Not-vented
6. R38 blown cellulose at attic ceiling.
7. GWB celing with latex paint.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Jeremy Kozik | Oct 20 11
1 Answer

I am very interested in the PERSIST design but all i can seem to find when i search for details is REMOTE. I just saw a REMOTE wall detail in a jlc forum that included 2 x 4 wall framing and then fiberglass insulation in the cavity. Isn't that going to lower the temp of your sheathing? kind of defeating the purpose of this type of construction? Also, I recently read a 2010 article by the CCHRC about a study done in 2002 in Alaska, and they found that the REMOTE style home they tested burned twice as much fuel as they had predicted.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Chris Bachand | Oct 21 11
8 Answers

I live in the Pacific Northwest (zone 4 marine). My wife and I would like to build a home starting next year. I've been doing a lot of research on foundations and can't seem to find a "definitive" answer to "slab vs condition crawl space".

In General questions | Asked By Chad Rockwell | Oct 20 11
1 Answer

One of my biggest pet peeves in my current house is the temperature difference throughout the house. The thermostat is located in an open area close to the kitchen on the 1st floor (which gets affected by heat generated by cooking) and in the winter our 2nd level bedrooms are much colder. Being a tract built home, there are without a doubt lots of issues with the system balancing and connections of the ducting, but there are some inherent issues caused by depending on a single thermostat in a 3 level house (2 floors + basement).

In General questions | Asked By Mike Goulet | Oct 21 11
4 Answers

The comments around here are almost unanimous in favor of cellulose to insulate an attic floor, and I can understand why. But a lot of builders are using loose-fill fiberglass instead. There must be a reason.

So I ask you, what advantages are there for loose-fill fiberglass? Does it cost less? Is it easier to install? Is it lighter on the ceiling below? Does it dry out faster if the roof leaks? Is it just easier to buy your attic insulation from the same place you buy your fiberglass wall insulation?

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Ian Brown | Sep 29 11
14 Answers

Can anyone recommend an inexpensive and easy to use CAD program for house plans?
3D would be nice but not necessary. Easy to get started is main goal.

Thanks

In Green building techniques | Asked By Richard Patterman | Oct 10 11
4 Answers

For a brick facade house with masonite siding that needs to be replaced (brick front, siding other three sides), an opportunity to install continuous exterior insulation presents itself. Problem is, no overhangs on the gable ends. Is a reasonable solution to use a product such as:

http://www.insulationstop.com/radiant-barrier-foil-insulation-double-bub...

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Bradley Yoder | Oct 20 11
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