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6 Answers

I was told by my roofing company that doing a new standing seam in phases is not a problem. We had the northeast side done this summer, and now the ridge is leaking on our house. The roof was not leaking prior to having the work done this summer.

The main reason I decided to do standing seam was so hopefully the snow and ice will not keep building up on it. Any idea why we have leaks now?

In General questions | Asked By Holly Ward | Nov 25 11
6 Answers

I am building a ranch house in RI. The house is 2400sqft, has SIP walls and is a slab on grade with radiant. My question concerns insulating my vented, vaulted ceiling. My living room is made with scissor trusses and has a 12" energy heal (inside the 9' SIP walls). I have had a few insulation companies come and give me an estimate on insulating the ceiling and I have as many recommendations on how to do the vaults. One company wants to do 12" of fiberglass\wool batts; another wants to do cellulose and yet another insists on rock wool.

In General questions | Asked By noc nomore | Nov 23 11
10 Answers

If I have an R-30, cold roofed, thermally isolated, conditioned attic (400 sq ft, rarely used living space for guests) and R-30 ceiling insulation over the main 1,000 sq ft living space, does that equate to R-60 for the main living space under the ceiling?

Both levels will have independent Monitor heating units. Both levels will have adequate mechanical ventilation and makeup air inlets. In zone 6. I'm aware that this is not up to code but I'm curious. What are the pros and cons of this set up?

In General questions | Asked By stephen edge | Nov 24 11
4 Answers

An acquaintance got an estimate to insulate her 16'x18' crawlspace. Although I haven't seen it personally, here's the scenario:

House is in WI, 7600 degree days, concrete block foundation (no vents to outside) with bare soil in crawlspace. However, the soil is dug down quite a bit deeper next to the foundation, so the soil slopes up towards the center of the crawlspace (about 2.5 ft. high in the middle). Forced air ducts run through the crawlspace, and the access to the crawlspace is a former basement window, which is open to the basement.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Jonathan Beers | Nov 23 11
5 Answers

We have a home with a sunken living room and we wish to raise the floor approximately 9 inches to make it level with the surrounding rooms. The floor of the sunken living room is slab on grade. On three sides the adjacent floors are over vented crawl space, the fourth side is an exterior wall. To raise the floor I intend to build a frame with a plywood sub floor. With the raised floor should I mimic the surrounding floors, ie create a vented space with insulation up against the plywood sub floor. Or should I create a completely sealed and insulated space with rigid insulation on the slab.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Molly McCabe | Nov 23 11
9 Answers

Our local historic preservation committee will not allow retrofits/replacement of so called historic windows - the aging, single-pane, wood frame with "wavy" glass. Some in the historic community claim that the existing windows can be retrofitted with films, weatherstripping, insulated shades or the like and match the performance of a high performance (e.g., energy star rated) window replacement.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By mike keesee | Feb 8 11
10 Answers

My house is ICF walls,SIP roof,and 4"EPS under the basement slab. The basement is about 2/3rds the volume of the of the main floor.It is absolutely tight(less than .8ACH) with a vent fan if needed.It is painted a white throughout.It's 9/10ths below grade.Only one door and no windows. The main floor is manufactured "I" beams which are exposed in the basement ceiling.. Measuring air temperature, the basement is always 1degreeC below the main floor.I am told due 97% to irradiation from the white plywood under the 2" concrete slab of the main floor.

In General questions | Asked By Mike Legge | Nov 23 11
1 Answer

I have read of numerous methods for insulation/ vapor barrier.
What is best wall construction? I plan to use, from outside to inside- cypress vertical siding, horizontal furring strips, tyvek, 1/2" plywood, 2x6 studs, spray foam, fiberglass bats, sheetrock/ wood paneling.
House is in Virginia Mountains over basement.

In General questions | Asked By John Waller | Nov 24 11
4 Answers

I've recently begun building energy effecient homes and would like input about how others are attaching rigid foam board to concrete stem walls. I'm using a pier on grade beam foundation which requires 8"-10" of concrete to be covered. I've used all different types of adhesives and haven't found any that stick right away. We usually have to lean a 2x4 against it or shovel some dirt against it.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. We are using Owens Corning 1" foamular 150.

In Green building techniques | Asked By James Fincher | Jul 16 09
4 Answers

This is a question related to the thread on "How to Make a SIP Roof Better". I am building a SIPS house with a nearly flat roof structure- a butterfly roof at 1.25" per foot and a companion roof at 0.5" per foot. The house is in Fredericksburg, VA. Both roofs will have 8" EPS (Neopor) panels. Directly on top of these panels a TPO membrane will be installed.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Ben Raterman | Nov 21 11
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