Q&A: A Forum for Green Building Experts and Beginners

[Click map to enlarge]

Please register for a free account or sign in to ask and answer green building questions.

The usual rules of courtesy apply:
1. Be nice.
2. If you can't be nice, be polite.
3. If you can't be nice or polite — well, please be brief.

To attach a photo or illustration:
Under the box labeled "More explanation," look for the words "File attachments."
Click that, and you should be able to attach a photo.

Thanks for joining the conversation!

1 Answer

Made in USA video...

Please take a minute to watch this video to the end before you do your next purchase... and then forward to all you know in the industry.
Let's help our industry and our jobs!!!

In General questions | Asked By Armando Cobo | Dec 19 11
25 Answers

Soffit moisture

I built a new house in a suburb of Chicago this past spring and moved in, in August. I had Icynene sprayed in the walls and Gaco firestop 550 on the underside of the roof . Now that we have had some cold weather under 30 degrees I am seeeing moisture dripping from some spots on my exterior soffits and fascia. I had the insulator back to look in the attic, it looks like it was sprayed well and we can't see any areas missing insulation. Any ideas, could humidity be able to pass through the Gaco insulation? Any ideas?

In General questions | Asked By Mike Thornton | Dec 16 11
1 Answer

Tub with shower surround installation

I'm in climate zone #5 (Eastern Washington State) and have framed the house with 2x6 walls on 24"centers,OSB sheathing, WRB, 1.5" foam, 3/4" furring strips and fiber board horizontal siding. The tub/shower surround is on an exterior wall. Information I've seen (JLC Moisture Control, JLC Energy Efficiency and drawings in Strategies & Details) do not show this detail. Without asking specifically about this detail the insulation contractor and bldg dept have indicated that interior poly. is required.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Thomas LaCrosse | Dec 19 11
0 Answers

To our Romanian readers

The GBA glossary has been translated into Romanian by Alexander Ovsov. Any Romanian speakers who are interested in this new resource will find it here:

Thanks, Alexander!

In General questions | Asked By Martin Holladay | Dec 19 11
80 Answers

HTML hints for Dummies

Hey Dan
Thanks for the New Editing Feature

Use this thread to Practice HTML & Picture posting

In General questions | Asked By John Brooks | Feb 4 10
16 Answers

Building Science .....1911

Check out page 99 in this Radford book from 1911.
Quadruple Glazing, Management of Thermal Bridging...and
Ventilation without motors.
Lots of other good air barrier and water management details thru-out the book.

In Green building techniques | Asked By John Brooks | May 9 09
16 Answers

Chimney problems

A new client has hired us to solve a chronic chimney leak problem. It is a unique convergence of roof angles and chimney. they have had a new crown installed in the recent past and it is in good shape. Their flues are terra cotta and are not capped. They said they had it pointed, but the photos show some need here. The only thing that has not been reworked is the flashing. I think removing the rubber and replacing with soldered copper pans, steps, and regletted counters may be in order.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Robert Post S.E. Pennsylvania Zone 4a | Dec 14 11
6 Answers

Lightweight concrete floors on upper levels?

I am exploring concrete floors on the main level (over basement) to get some mass into the space. They would be stained and sealed to create the finished floor.

I am researching the use of ICF style forms that would allow a free span from wall to wall and eliminate the wood floor structure all together. An example is Lite-Deck, which costs around $3.25/sqft of floor surface for the form. (plus rebar and concrete).

The other option is a wood structure with (assumed) 2 layers of 3/4" subfloor, vapor barrier, and then 2-3" of light weight concrete.

The questions are:

In General questions | Asked By Jesse Lizer | Dec 15 11
4 Answers

Cold Climate - New Construction

I've been reading in this site for about 3-4 weeks now and it has been a great resource.

Most of the homes discussed are warmer weather climates

I live in Northern Ontario (Canada) and will be building a new house in the spring. My building inspector in my area says it's a zone 2, but that does not tie into what I have been reading here. I consider it to be cold weather climate as we are about 4 hours drive north of Toronto.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Brian Krmpotic | Dec 15 11
1 Answer

Open-cell or closed-cell SPF in 2x4 walls?

I am building a house (or rather my builder is, I am a semi-well read novice, not an expert at all) in Climate zone 4 in the western piedmont (near the foothills) of NC. We have relatively hot periods in the summer (several weeks of 90 deg +), and we have several weeks of below freezing temps in the winter. This is definitely a "Mixed" climate.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Patrick Steagall | Dec 15 11
Register for a free account and join the conversation

Get a free account and join the conversation!
Become a GBA PRO!