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3 Answers

Hi, I live in Saskatoon, Canada. Our climate is considered humid continental - warm summers and very cold winters. I need some advice quickly if possible as to whether it is okay to pour concrete up to the level of our foundation to grade water away from our house. Our neighbor is away while their newly built house is being landscaped. I came home today to find that their contractor had done prep work to put a concrete pad between the two houses to carry rain water out to the front of our properties and to the street. This is something we had discussed but not finalized.

In General questions | Asked By Colin Kindrachuk | Oct 12 11
2 Answers

I live at the border between zone 4a and zone 5a in Kansas City. My home has a barrel vault (see photos) with sheetrock following the curve on the inside, 6 in rafters withR-19 fiberglass bats, unvented, and then the decking and roof.

We are planning to replace the roof, likely with standing-seam metal. Is there any insulation that we could put on the deck under the metal, or any other ideas to improve efficiency when we replace the roof?

Thanks for your suggestions.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Tim Dellenbaugh | Oct 12 11
2 Answers

She is interested in rainwater harvesting. She is concerned with the asphalt residue leatching out of the shingle roof and eventually ending up in her vegetable garden. Any ideas on other roofing material (other than the obvious metal, cedar shingle, synthetic) which would cost much more. Any organic shingles without asphalt?


In Green products and materials | Asked By tim mullen | Oct 12 11
9 Answers

It would only have to cover three sides in my case: the two braod sides and one edge. I want to wrap the exposed rafter tails on a gambrel roof. Second best would be the best techique to bend aluminum stock to do this job.

In General questions | Asked By mark faultersack | Oct 10 11
10 Answers

Have a cathedral ceilinged residence with 4x6 tong & groove hemlock exposed to the interior supported by gluam arches at 15' on center. Want to reshingle this uninsulated roof with thick nailable rigid insulation on top of the woo deck.

Is there a guide for determining insulation thickness and selecting a vented or non-vented system? Have gotten very mixed answers from architects and engineers, and the manufactures of the systems are of little help. Since non-vented is the leastexpensive, it could offer a better payback. Am in 5,500 degree day climate in New York. - Thanks, Rob

In Green products and materials | Asked By Robert Damico | Oct 7 11
7 Answers

Just watched the video regarding vented attics and insulation.

We are re-purposing a 40 year old mill building. (Norfolk, Ct 06058, the icebox of CT). Radiant heat in finished concrete floors is in, German Shucco windows installed. We have a new standing metal seam roof, done. There are sofit vents on both sides, all along the gutter line, ridge vent entire length of roof, as well as 2 gable vents. We have already sprayed soy foam in the walls, 5.5 inches (closed cell). The HVAC trunks are installed just above the proposed drop ceiling.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By gary scheft | Oct 12 11
5 Answers

I work in Zone 4a and would like to know if it would be a problem to put Tyvek over OSB sheathing and then cover the Tyvek with one inch XPS foam.

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Mike O'Keefe | Oct 11 11
2 Answers

Question for Martin Holladay,

We are removing spray foam insulation from our attic that has started off-gassing after 5 years (installed when house built). The recommended replacement will be as follows:

change attic space from unvented to vented with install of ridge vent and removal of soffit blocking

In GBA Pro help | Asked By Jas Thurber | Oct 11 11
1 Answer

I just moved to the Verde Valley of AZ from the deserts. This is my first home that is not on a slab foundation. The home is sitting on a slump block foundation raised about 3 feet above the ground.
There are 3 vents in the exterior foundation. Should I block those off in the winter? And if so, when?
What time of year should I reopen them?


In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Richard Louis | Oct 11 11
1 Answer

Pacific Northwest Region-Washington
Attic space over living space has loose fill fiberglass/no vapor barrier and is vented (double bird-hole eave intake vents and continuous ridge vent exhaust). Garage is sheet-rocked but attic space over attached garage is not insulated. Attic access is in garage ceiling.
Moisture problem evident on underside of roof sheathing. More apparent over living space than garage.
Plan to seal gaps and add insulation but curious about separating garage attic space.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By James Cavallaro | Oct 11 11
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