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0 Answers

Hi -

The 1895 Green Castle project I’m working on is an existing home, major “gut” rehab that obtained permit Jan 2010 and qualifies as a candidate to obtain LEED for Homes Platinum in CA.

Overall and, specifically within the Energy & Atmosphere category, should we use CA Title 24 calculations for new construction or existing building?

J Co

In GBA Pro help | Asked By J Co | May 31 11
11 Answers

While working on designing my house, I thought about installing 3" x 6" x 8' strips of 100 psi blue foam under my interior, exterior wall (double-stud wall) to minimize conduction through the bottom plate to the concrete. The compression numbers were not there, so I abandoned the idea; for a smaller house the numbers would work fine. Then I thought of two alternatives, and wonder if they would be worth the PITA to utilize either one. The first is a strip of plastic honeycomb, filled w/ foam, 2-3" thick. Those would have to be invented, as far as I know, or custom made on the job in some way.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By John Klingel | May 29 11
1 Answer

Been looking at different furring strip products for a ventilated rainscreen - have used Eldorado battens before but apparently supplier cannot get them right now. Looked at the Cor-A-Vent product and really like the integrated top and bottom insect screen. Looking for input from people that have used this system before.
Also, when using systems like Eldorado battens, what do you use for top and bottom insect screens?


In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Marc Kleinmann | May 31 11
2 Answers

I would like to use a foam insulation product in a 2 x 8 vaulted rafter space. Do I need to use baffles to circulate air under the shingles and thus not void the shingle warranty.

In Green products and materials | Asked By Beth Robinson | May 28 11
5 Answers

I'm looking at fullview (interchangeable glass/screen panel) storm doors. I see that I can order a regular aluminum one (which I presume has some sort of weatherstripping), or this one for twice as much:

Description of Product:
6.3 R Value equals over 7 x the insulating value of 1" wood core doors! Polypropylene weatherstrip and interlocking glass sashes keep the weather out

First, isn't this R-value pretty unlikely?

In General questions | Asked By Minneapolis Disaster | May 29 11
7 Answers

I've been calling around to try to get some adhesive tapes to try out. I'm in Minneapolis, and I'm getting ready to do a couple of projects where I'll need it.

Here's my reference:

My experience has been pretty similar to when I check around locally about almost anything I read about on this site: nobody has it and nobody's heard of it.

This has not been my experience yet:

In General questions | Asked By Minneapolis Disaster | May 27 11
4 Answers

Does anyone have experience with this Burnham boiler -- this specific model number?
I understand it has European stainless steel components inside.

Any comments or direct experience would be really helpful.
Thank you.

In Mechanicals | Asked By gary scheft | May 11 11
0 Answers

I am looking for an installation detail for a window that will be in a poured concrete basement wall. There will be two inches of foam insulation on the inside of the concrete wall, a one inch gap and then a 2x4 framed wall which will be insulated with blown cellulose. We are using cascadia triple pane windows, which have a clip for mounting mid wall, no nailing flange. I have seen precast walls with windows mounted in the concrete hole, and I am wondering what the best practice is for installation.
Thank you.

In General questions | Asked By jay t scott | May 24 11
5 Answers

Any of you energy nerds out there know of quality studies conducted on heat loss/gain through framing (and other thermal bridges) in residential buildings?

Also, if you know of studies conducted on heat loss/gain through air leakage that would be much appreciated.

In Energy efficiency and durability | Asked By Brett Moyer | May 29 11
2 Answers

I would love to get the benefits of having the insulation in the center of my concrete foundation. I will most likely be building my own forms from 3/4" ply and using conical ties, and can't see a way to install the ties without drilling twice the number of holes in the foam...one set for the composite connectors and one set for the ties. Anyone have a solution to this problem, or is it even a problem? I wish the thermomass connectors had a built-in snap-tie, but I don't think they do.

In Green building techniques | Asked By Nick Furfaro | May 25 11
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